Thursday, February 4th, 2010

2008 La Spinetta Moscato d’Asti ‘Bricco Quaglia’, Piemonte, Italy (RMB 172)
Available from Watson’s, Contact Lily Li: LilyLi@asw.com.hk  www.watsonswine.com

La Spinetta is one of the top producers in Italy’s Piemonte region. As well as making great Barolo and Barbaresco, among other wines - for a stunning example from the 1997 vintage click here - La Spinetta also produces one of the region’s best Moscato d’Asti, a delightful sweet sparkling wine (in this case named after a hill-top vineyard - bricco - frequented by quails - quaglia).

Light green in colour with attractive, gentle bubbles, the nose has Moscato’s wonderful perfume of orange blossom and lime fruit. The palate is medium sweet with just enough acidity to balance and low alcohol (5.5% abv.), making it very drinkable!

Moscato d’Asti – which is typically of higher quality than generic ‘Asti’ – does not get much better than this! Try with dishes that contain chilli (or other acidic spices) or enjoy with Chinese fruits at the end of a banquet.

NV McGuigan Sparkling Shiraz Black Label, Australia (RMB 128)
Available from Gelipu Wines, Contact Danny Wu: ausdanny@gmail.com, 13911229053 www.ai9.com.cn

Sadly, there is not much Sparkling Shiraz in China. Most of it is consumed in Australia where it is extremely popular, particularly for special occasions. This is a fun and food-friendly wine ideal for Chinese New Year banquets.

Medium purple with an attractive, full mousse, the nose has pleasant black cherry and berry fruits with a touch of spice.

The palate has refreshing medium acidity and tannin is kept to a minimum for this style of wine. Very adaptable to many kinds of Chinese dishes. We just wish there was more Sparkling Shiraz available here.

Wednesday, September 30th, 2009

(Above: Andrew Caillard MW presents)

23rd September 2009

Andrew Caillard MW of Australian fine wine auctioneers Langton’s - creators of the Langton Classification (1991) - presented this year’s Landmark Tasting courtesy of Wine Australia at the Park Hyatt, Beijing.

The Landmark wines, as their title suggests, represent some of the most notable achievements in Australian winemaking taken from the general topography of Australia’s diverse regional offerings where another tier of Regional Heroes can be found (’regionality‘ being the critical and often apt buzz-word among Australian wine circles).

This was the second year in which a selection of Landmark wines were shown in Beijing to a select group of local media, F&B, wine educators and wine importer-distributors influential throughout the PRC; joined by AWBC representatives, the new Chairman of the AWBC James Dominguez and personnel from Austrade.

Caillard gave a fun and informative introduction to each of the below wines, providing some compelling anecdotal glimpses into their respective histories in a presentation carefully pitched to the assembled audience. Certainly, as elsewhere in the world, but especially so in China, it is a critical time to introduce or re-introduce the fine wine message with respect to Australia (which has come in for a fair amount of flack in the international wine press).

For my part, the tasting and dinner were an incredible experience, a privilege; as the below wines should amply indicate:

On tasting were (click on links for full tasting notes):

2002 House of Arras Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir, Tasmania

2009 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley

1999 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley

2006 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River

2006 Giaconda Chardonnay, Beechworth

2007 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland

2006 Mount Mary Quintet Cabernets, Yarra Valley

2004 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River

2004 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra

2008 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Canberra District

2004 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley

2004 Penfolds Grange, South Australia

2007 De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon, Riverina

1909 Seppeltsfield 100-Year Old Vintage Tawny, Barossa Valley

(For anyone interested in a vertical tasting of Penfolds Grange, featuring the 1983, 1991, 1998, 1999 and 2003 vintages, please click here).

Guests then sat down to a sensibly chosen and innovative menu, enjoying the following dishes (with some of the Landmark wines re-tasted for good measure):

Oolong tea-smoked lobster, chrysanthemum cress in a seasame-soy vinaigrette with blue-fina tuna and scallop timtable

2009 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley

Twice-cooked crispy duck “Mille Feuille” in sweet and sour kumquat sauce with foie gras and a taro-truffle fritter

2007 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland

Jasmine tea and lychee sorbet (served in ice - as pictured above)

Wok-fried Wagyu beef tenderloin in black pepper sauce with braised veal cheeks in abalone sauce accompanied by sauteed pea sprouts and pumpkin risotto

2008 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Canberra District

2004 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra

Imperial bird’s nest, coconut pudding and sherry ice cream

1909 Seppeltsfield Para 100 Year-Old Vintage Tawny, Barossa Valley

All in all, this was a very wine-friendly menu and especially appropriate for the fruit-driven complexity of many Australian wines. The below picture of the 1909 Seppeltsfield Vintage Tawny almost captures its dark brown oxidized colour, an incredible wine to experience (all tasting notes above on Adegga).

Our thanks to Wine Australia, Austrade and Andrew Caillard MW.

Sunday, September 13th, 2009

As part of Montrose Fine Wines‘ newly revamped portfolio, producers Emilio Moro (Ribera del Duero) and Borsao (Campo de Borja) recently visited Beijing for a sumptuous dinner at Agua (Qianmen No. 23).

The wines from Borsao are dependable and the Tres Picos (a robust Garnacha) proved popular. Emilio Moro, meanwhile, produces some distinctive Ribera and the Finca Resalso (an early drinking example) is likely to be a hit with Chinese tasters.

My wine of the night was, however, the 2005 Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero (although, admittedly, this will benefit from further ageing, however approachable it is now).

On tasting were:

Borsao Rosado Seleccíon, Campo de Borja 2008

Borsao Blanco Seleccíon, Campo de Borja 2007

Emilio Moro ‘Finca Resalso’, Ribera del Duero 2006

Ribera del Duero, Emilio Moro 2005

Borsao ‘Tres Picos’, Campo de Borja 2007

Friday, September 11th, 2009

2007 Domaine Saint-Remy Gewurztraminer, Alsace, France RMB 260
Special offer for newsletter readers only (please mention the Dragon Phoenix newsletter when making your purchase). To sign up for our DP Newsletter, please click here.
Available from Cellar Le Pinot, contact Scarlett: 85151715 or jiali@lepinot.com

Alsace is the home of high quality Gewurztraminer. The wines can be dry or range in sweetness level (Vendange Tardive or late harvest wines are usually sweeter and the famous Sélection des Grains Nobles or SGN wines are very sweet!).

This wine is a lovely medium gold colour. The nose has perfumed lychee, mango and rose petal aromas.

The palate is low in acidity, quite dry with a rich mouthfeel and beautiful length. This highly aromatic wine is good with certain soft cheeses – especially the famous Munster cheese of Alsace. Try with sea-food filled dumplings (like crab xiaolongbao), fried wontons or even spicier dishes like Singaporean chilli crab. 

2008 Yalumba ‘Y Series’ Viognier, South Australia RMB 199
Available from Summergate, contact Jim Yang Jim.yang@summergate.com
Telephone 86.10. 6562.1800 ext 16. www.summergate.com

Yalumba is one of Australia’s great producers, based in the Barossa Valley. The winery actually produces many types of Viognier from South Australia as well as very good reds.

A new arrival in Beijing but popular around the world, the ‘Y Series’ Viognier is a beautiful light gold in colour. It has delicate, perfumed peach and apricot fruit with a lovely palate of low to medium acidity, medium-high alcohol and good length. Try with lightly stir-fried seafood dishes, especially crystal prawns.

Friday, August 14th, 2009

On the back of our 17-day trail-blazing tour of Australia’s major wine regions, we thought we’d recommend two reliable Aussie wines.

Both are from large scale producers that many think of as simply ‘cheap and cheerful’; but do get round to sampling Angove’s Vineyard Select range - the below Clare Riesling is very good and the McLaren Vale Shiraz and Coonowarra Cabernet are both superb - and Jacob’s Creek’s Reserve range.

Jacob’s Creek also offers the top-notch Heritage wines which few of us outside of Australia ever knew about until getting round to discovering what this mammoth company actually produces.

2008 Angove’s Vineyard Select Clare Valley Riesling, South Australia (RMB 249)
Available from Mercuris Fine Wines, contact Olivier Gilles: olivier.gilles@mercuris.com.cn
Australia’s Clare Valley is home to some of the world’s most exciting dry Riesling. This example from Angove’s is elegant and restrained. Light green in colour, the nose has gorgeous lime fruit with mineral aromas followed up by refreshing acidity and lovely length on the palate. Fantastic with Chinese cold platters, Cantonese seafood or whole fish dishes and even Sichuan dishes (as well as summertime salads).

2006 Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz, South Australia (RMB 170)
Available from Pernod Ricard, contact Jane Liu: jane.liu@pernod-ricard-china.com
Jacob’s Creek is a large-scale, reliable producer, but some wine lovers have not tried the promsing Reserve or excellent Heritage wines. This is classic South Australian Shiraz sourced from several regions within the state. Dark purple in colour, the nose has attractive black cherry and blueberry fruit with well-integrated French and American oak (giving a touch of vanilla and other spicy aromas). The palate has lovely fruit, good acidity, chewy ripe tannins and promising length. Great with beef or lamb, this robust Shiraz can also match meat-filled jiaozi or Beijing duck.

Wednesday, February 25th, 2009

25th February 2009

Jeannette Bruwer of South Africa’s Springfield Estate (located in Robertson) joined up with importer Links China to host a fascinating dinner at Beijing’s Le Quai (part of the Slow Food group).

Springfield Estate has some interesting wine-making techniques to offer its ‘themed’ wines: for example, the ‘Wild Yeast’ Chardonnay (unsurprisingly, fermented with exclusively wild yeasts), the ‘Whole Berry’ Cabernet Sauvignon (whole-berry fermented, following de-stemming) and impressive ‘The Work of Time’ red blend which is held back before release.

Here’s what we tasted:

Springfield Estate ‘Life from Stone’ Sauvignon Blanc, Robertson 2008

Springfield Estate ‘Wild Yeast’ Chardonnay, Robertson 2005

Springfield Estate ‘Whole Berry’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Robertson 2005

Springfield Estate ‘The Work of Time’, Robertson 2005