Wednesday, September 30th, 2009
(Above: Andrew Caillard MW presents)
23rd September 2009
Andrew Caillard MW of Australian fine wine auctioneers Langton’s - creators of the Langton Classification (1991) - presented this year’s Landmark Tasting courtesy of Wine Australia at the Park Hyatt, Beijing.
The Landmark wines, as their title suggests, represent some of the most notable achievements in Australian winemaking taken from the general topography of Australia’s diverse regional offerings where another tier of Regional Heroes can be found (’regionality‘ being the critical and often apt buzz-word among Australian wine circles).
This was the second year in which a selection of Landmark wines were shown in Beijing to a select group of local media, F&B, wine educators and wine importer-distributors influential throughout the PRC; joined by AWBC representatives, the new Chairman of the AWBC James Dominguez and personnel from Austrade.
Caillard gave a fun and informative introduction to each of the below wines, providing some compelling anecdotal glimpses into their respective histories in a presentation carefully pitched to the assembled audience. Certainly, as elsewhere in the world, but especially so in China, it is a critical time to introduce or re-introduce the fine wine message with respect to Australia (which has come in for a fair amount of flack in the international wine press).
For my part, the tasting and dinner were an incredible experience, a privilege; as the below wines should amply indicate:
On tasting were (click on links for full tasting notes):
2002 House of Arras Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir, Tasmania
2009 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley
1999 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley
2006 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River
2006 Giaconda Chardonnay, Beechworth
2007 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland
2006 Mount Mary Quintet Cabernets, Yarra Valley
2004 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River
2004 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
2008 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Canberra District
2004 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley
2004 Penfolds Grange, South Australia
2007 De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon, Riverina
1909 Seppeltsfield 100-Year Old Vintage Tawny, Barossa Valley
(For anyone interested in a vertical tasting of Penfolds Grange, featuring the 1983, 1991, 1998, 1999 and 2003 vintages, please click here).
Guests then sat down to a sensibly chosen and innovative menu, enjoying the following dishes (with some of the Landmark wines re-tasted for good measure):
Oolong tea-smoked lobster, chrysanthemum cress in a seasame-soy vinaigrette with blue-fina tuna and scallop timtable
2009 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley
Twice-cooked crispy duck “Mille Feuille” in sweet and sour kumquat sauce with foie gras and a taro-truffle fritter
2007 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland
Jasmine tea and lychee sorbet (served in ice - as pictured above)
Wok-fried Wagyu beef tenderloin in black pepper sauce with braised veal cheeks in abalone sauce accompanied by sauteed pea sprouts and pumpkin risotto
2008 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Canberra District
2004 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
Imperial bird’s nest, coconut pudding and sherry ice cream
1909 Seppeltsfield Para 100 Year-Old Vintage Tawny, Barossa Valley
All in all, this was a very wine-friendly menu and especially appropriate for the fruit-driven complexity of many Australian wines. The below picture of the 1909 Seppeltsfield Vintage Tawny almost captures its dark brown oxidized colour, an incredible wine to experience (all tasting notes above on Adegga).
Our thanks to Wine Australia, Austrade and Andrew Caillard MW.
Tuesday, March 10th, 2009
10th March 2009
Importer Watson’s joined by Bernard de Laage de Meux of Chateau Palmer organized a special seminar on the wines of Palmer at Beijing’s China World hotel.
Monsieur de Laage de Meux spoke of Palmer’s unique place within the Margaux appellation, both stylistically and with respect to the property’s soils (he also noted that Petit Verdot has largely replaced Cabernet Franc in the vineyard’s plantings).
Here’s what we tasted (click on links for full tasting notes):
Alter Ego de Palmer, Margaux 2001
Alter Ego De Palmer, Margaux 2004
Alter Ego De Palmer, Margaux 2005
Château Palmer, Margaux 1995
Château Palmer, Margaux 2000
The 2000 will be very good indeed, but is still predictably on the young side (it will likely outclass the 1995 over time). Of the Alter Ego de Palmers, the 2005 was, unsurprisingly, especially good.
Friday, March 6th, 2009
6th March 2009
Importer Links China joined hands with Christophe Brunet of Paul Jaboulet Aine for a sumptuous dinner and tasting at Beijing Raffles‘ Jaan Restaurant.
This was a great opportunity to asssess the current state of affairs at Jaboulet; with several new wines and the comprehensive label re-designs instituted by the Frey family in evidence, as well as a look back at some older vintages of La Chapelle and the excellent Chevalier de Sterimberg.
Here’s what we tasted (there’s an additional note on Caroline Frey’s 2004 Chateau La Lagune which we happened to sample also):
Le Petit Jaboulet Viognier, Paul Jaboulet 2007
Crozes-Hermitage Mule Blanche, Paul Jaboulet 2005
Hermitage Chevalier de Stérimberg, Paul Jaboulet 2004
Hermitage Chevalier de Stérimberg, Paul Jaboulet 2001
Crozes-Hermitage Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet 2005
Châteauneuf-du-Papes Les Cèdres, Paul Jaboulet 2006
Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet 2004
Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet 1997
Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc 2004
Of these wines, the Petit Jaboulet Viognier is charming and very true to varietal; the Mule Blanche is an impressive white Crozes, which, though developing well, will last a little longer in bottle; the Chevalier de Sterimberg vintages were both very good indeed, although the 2004 is very much on the young side; and the Thalabert and Les Cedres not perhaps showing as well as they might (Jaboulet needs to work on its Chateauneuf especially).
That said, the vintages of La Chapelle were fascinating. The 2004 will be very good with time and the not-always-trumpeted 1997 seemed to be in finer shape than some have suggested in previous years (i.e. when tasting the 1997 at an early stage in its development - see tasting note).
Finally, the 2004 La Lagune is one of the stronger wines of that vintage without a doubt.
Thursday, February 12th, 2009
12th February 2009
Following a superb tasting at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, we rolled up for our final visit of the tour at Cakebread. We were already fans of Cakebread’s Sauvignon Blanc, but were able on this occasion to taste a much fuller range (of which the Dancing Bear Cabernets from the Howell Mountain area were especially good):
Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2007
Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay, Napa 2007
Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros, Napa 2006
Cakebread Cellars Rubaiyat, North Coast 2006
Cakebread Cellars Zinfandel, Lake County 2005
Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Cakebread Cellars ‘Dancing Bear’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa 2004
Cakebread Cellars ‘Dancing Bear’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa 2005
The wines are available in China through ASC.
Tuesday, February 10th, 2009
10th February 2009
Following a pretty impressive tasting at Clos du Val, I crossed the road to Silverado and enjoyed a very informative and fascinating line-up of wines with GM Russell Weiss and his very helpful team.
This transpired to be another chance to taste some older vintages of Californian Cabernet (having had a similar experience at Simi). Brit though I am, I’m convinced that many Californian classics and many of Australia’s iconic wines are often consumed too young; or at least without enough time in bottle to show their full colours.
Here’s what we tasted (click on links for full tasting notes). The 1998 and 1982 Napa Cabs were especially fascinating to taste:
Silverado Vineyards Miller Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2007
Silverado Vineyards Vineburg Chardonnay, Carneros, Sonoma 2006
Silverado Vineyards Sangiovese, Napa 2006
Silverado Vineyards Zinfandel, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards ‘Fantasia’, Napa 2006
Silverado Vineyards Merlot, Napa 2004
Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards ‘Solo’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards ‘Limited Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 1998
Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 1982
Monday, February 9th, 2009
9th February 2009
As I rolled up to the cellar door, I realized I was lucky to be visiting Heitz just as the winery was releasing its 2004 Cabernets, including the single-vineyard range.
Here’s a quick preview (together with a number of other Heitz wines). The Bella Oaks Vineyard Cabernet will be superb, as will the Martha’s Vineyard eventually. I was particular taken with the more modestly priced Petit Verdot, however:
Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2004
Heitz Cellar Bella Oaks Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley 2004
Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley 2004
Heitz Cellar Petit Verdot, Napa Valley 2006
Heitz Cellar Ink Grade ‘Port’, Napa Valley
Heitz Cellar Grignolino ‘Port’, Napa Valley 2006
Heitz Cellar Zinfandel, Napa Valley 2005
Saturday, February 7th, 2009
7th February 2009
It’s hardly possible to do justice to Sonoma in a day or even a week, a region every bit as topographically and geologically diverse as Napa (and with some even greater differences between cool climate and warmer zones).
Sonoma boasts the ‘Zin zone’ of Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys as well as such notable ‘cool’ spots as Russian River Valley (itself sub-divided into Chalk and Green Valleys), not to mention the even cooler sections of Sonoma coast.
Clos du Bois is one of the bigger operations, now under the wings of Constellation; all-in-all a state-of the art facility (as the below ‘crush-pad’ makes clear).
The winery was a sizeable venture before Constellation’s acquisition, however, and given the impressive quality of the wines v. the size of production, it’s not hard to guess why Constellation was keen. But Clos du Bois boasts a longer history in the region (and was aparently the first winery in Sonoma to attempt a Meritage blend).
After an informative tour, Gillian Shipman kindly arranged for a tasting of the following:
Clos du Bois Pinot Grigio, California 2007
Clos du Bois Chardonnay, North Coast 2007
Clos du Bois Chardonnay ‘Calcaire’, Russian River Valley 2006
Clos du Bois Pinot Noir ‘Sonoma Reserve’, Sonoma Coast 2006
Clos du Bois Merlot, Sonoma, Alexander Valley 2005
Clos du Bois ‘Briarcrest’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 2004
Clos du Bois Old Vine Carignane ‘Sonoma Reserve’, Alexander Valley 2005
Clos du Bois ‘Proprietary Reserve’ Cabernet Franc, Alexander Valley 2004
Clos du Bois ‘Marlstone’ Meritage, Alexander Valley 2005
Clos du Bois Old Vine Zinfandel, Alexander Valley 2005
Clos du Bois ‘Fleur’ Late Harvest Riesling, Santa Lucia Highlands 2007
Of these wines, I was especially impressed by the 2006 Calcaire Chardonnay, 2005 Marlstone Meritage and 2004 Briarcrest Cabernet Sauvignon, but for good value the Pinot Grigio and basic North Coast Chardonnay are clear winners.
There’s a tendency in the wine world to laud small production (’boutique’ has to be one of the most irritating terms) without regard to quality, as though the large production companies only ever issue technically acceptable, but dull wines.
But size very much depends on the type of wine you are setting out to produce in the first place and where you are producing it (compare most Champagne with Grand Cru Burgundy).
If you’re an artisanal grower-turned winemaker blessed with a few vines of Corton-Charlemagne you have a duty to produce exceptional bottles. But hats should go off to those larger ventures that can attain impressive quality levels and deliver volume.
Clos du Bois certainly produces sizeable volumes of not only well-made, but distinctive wines.
Friday, February 6th, 2009
6th February 2009
After dropping off Fongyee in Yountville for the first day of her MW course, I thought I’d take a drive through central Napa. I had hoped to drive up north all the way to Calistoga, but the heavens opened and the valley soaked up some much-needed rain. As the first drops fell, I turned off the road at Grgich Hills Estate in Rutherford.
Veteran winemaker Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich, now in his mid-eighties, has had a distinguished career in the valley, one of its early pioneers for the quality wine revolution. Given this was my first Napa winery visit, I had half-feared a ‘hard-sell’ tasting room with staff telling consumers what to think of the wines, reeling off medals won and other accolades (Wine Spectator and Parker points etc. etc.)
In reality staff were engaging, well-trained and highly informative. Amanda Safford, a student at UC Davis, explained the history of the estate and how it came to be the US largest biodynamic winery.
I was then lucky to taste my way through the following:
Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay, Napa 2006
Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay Carneros Selection, Napa (Carneros) 2005
Grgich Hills Estate Fumé Blanc, Napa 2007
Grgich Hills Estate Zinfandel, Napa 2006
Grgich Hills Estate Merlot, Napa 2007
Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2007
Grgich Hills Estate Merlot, Napa 2005
Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2004
All in all, these were elegant, restrained wines with great character.
I thought the whites were stronger than the reds on the whole, but it would be unfortunate to generalize from only a handful of bottles.
A very good introduction to Napa, certainly.
Friday, January 23rd, 2009
22nd January 2009
Joining the cream of the British wine trade on our UK trip, we were delighted to taste our way through a sizeable range of the Richards Walford portfolio.
Here are our full notes, although, in truth, we only managed to taste a selection of what is a wide-ranging and extremely impressive body of wines (Királyudvar being especially good).
The notes are divided by country and region:
France, Champagne
NV Champagne Le Mesnil, U.P.R., Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Champagne Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2000
France, Alsace
Rolly Gassmann Riesling Pflaenzerreben, Rorschwihr, Alsace 2000
Rolly Gassmann Gewurztraminer, Rorschwihr, Alsace 2004
Rolly Gassmann Tokay Pinot Gris Rotleibel Vendange Tardive 1996
France, Côtes Catalanes
Le Soula, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes, Gérard Gauby (Rouge) 2007
Le Soula, Vin De Pays Des Côtes Catalanes, Gérard Gauby (rouge) 2006
Le Soula, Vin De Pays Des Côtes Catalanes, Gérard Gauby (rouge) 2005
Le Soula, Vin De Pays Des Côtes Catalanes, Gérard Gauby (rouge) 2004
France, Rhône
Côte-Rôtie ‘Cuvée du Plessy’, Gilles Barge 2006
Côte-Rôtie ‘Cordeloux’, Pierre Benetière 2006
Austria, Wachau
Grüner Veltliner Loibner Berg Smaragd, Wachau, F. X. Pichler 2007
Riesling Steinertal Smaragd, Wachau, F. X. Pichler 2007
Grüner Veltliner Ried Kreutles Federspiel, Wachau, Emmerich Knoll 2007
Hungary, Tokaji
Királyudvar Tokaji Sec, Tokaji 2005
Királyudvar Tokaji Sec, Tokaji 2006
Királyudvar Tokaji Becsek (demi-sec), Tokaji 2005
Királyudvar Hárslevlu Lapis 2006
Királyudvar Tokaji Cuvée Ilona, Tokaji 2003
Királyudvar Tokaji Aszù 6 Puttonyos, Tokaji 2002
Királyudvar Tokaji Aszù Lapis, Tokaji 2002
Italy, Tuscany
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2003
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1999
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1998
Lisini Brunello Di Montalcino, Tuscany 1995
Italy, Piemonte
Barbera d’Alba ‘Maggiur’, Cascina Luisin 2007
Barbaresco Sorí Paolin, Cascina Luisin 2003
Barbaresco Rabajá, Cascina Luisin 2003
Italy, Veneto
Valpolicella Superiore ‘Marion’, Stefano Campedelli 2004
Teroldego IGT ‘Marion’, Veneto, Stefano Campedelli 2004
Amarone della Valpolicella ‘Marion’, Veneto, Stefano Campedelli 2004
Friday, December 12th, 2008
12th December 2008
Importer Aussino hosted a sumptuous dinner featuring the wines of leading Burgundy negociant eleveur Nicolas Potel at Grange restaurant, the Westin Chaoyang.
Marco Caschera (pictured above) of Nicolas Potel gave an excellent introduction both to Burgundy and to the philosophy of Nicolas Potel (the man and company).
The following wines accompanied the below menu (click on links for full tasting notes).
See below also for details of the charity wine auction that rounded off the dinner in aid of victims of the Sichuan earthquake:
Beaune 1er Cru Vignes Franches, Nicolas Potel 2006
Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes, Nicolas Potel 2004
Volnay 1er Cru Pitures, Nicolas Potel 2003
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel 2003
Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire, Nicolas Potel 1985
Menu:
Gravadlax with pea sprouts and herb vinaigrette
Cappucino of roasted pumpkin with almond creme fraiche
Carpaccio of smoked duck, cajun spice mandarin oranges, arugula and blueberry and balsamic ‘pearls’
Wine enriched loin of venison with dauphinoise potato, roasted brussel sprouts and a raspberry bitter chocolate jus
Cheese
The wines seemed to be in good condition and I especially liked the 2003 Volnay 1er Cru Pitures and the 2004 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes.
The 2003 Clos de la Roche and 2006 Beaune 1er Cru Vignes Franches, however, will both need more time in bottle really.
Certainly no one should overlook 2003 Burgundy outright, even although the vintage conditions were extreme temperature-wise.
In the subsequent auction, Aussino and Caschera managed to raise 7,700RMB for a double magnum of 2005 Volnay 1er Cru Les Pitures and 5,200RMB for a double magnum of 2005 Beaune 1er Cru Teurons.
