Thursday, February 4th, 2010
2008 La Spinetta Moscato d’Asti ‘Bricco Quaglia’, Piemonte, Italy (RMB 172)
Available from Watson’s, Contact Lily Li: LilyLi@asw.com.hk www.watsonswine.com
La Spinetta is one of the top producers in Italy’s Piemonte region. As well as making great Barolo and Barbaresco, among other wines - for a stunning example from the 1997 vintage click here - La Spinetta also produces one of the region’s best Moscato d’Asti, a delightful sweet sparkling wine (in this case named after a hill-top vineyard - bricco - frequented by quails - quaglia).
Light green in colour with attractive, gentle bubbles, the nose has Moscato’s wonderful perfume of orange blossom and lime fruit. The palate is medium sweet with just enough acidity to balance and low alcohol (5.5% abv.), making it very drinkable!
Moscato d’Asti – which is typically of higher quality than generic ‘Asti’ – does not get much better than this! Try with dishes that contain chilli (or other acidic spices) or enjoy with Chinese fruits at the end of a banquet.
NV McGuigan Sparkling Shiraz Black Label, Australia (RMB 128)
Available from Gelipu Wines, Contact Danny Wu: ausdanny@gmail.com, 13911229053 www.ai9.com.cn
Sadly, there is not much Sparkling Shiraz in China. Most of it is consumed in Australia where it is extremely popular, particularly for special occasions. This is a fun and food-friendly wine ideal for Chinese New Year banquets.
Medium purple with an attractive, full mousse, the nose has pleasant black cherry and berry fruits with a touch of spice.
The palate has refreshing medium acidity and tannin is kept to a minimum for this style of wine. Very adaptable to many kinds of Chinese dishes. We just wish there was more Sparkling Shiraz available here.
Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010
(Photo: www.theworldwidewine.com)
Sparkling Reds
With Chinese New Year and Western Valentine’s Day falling on the same day this month, nothing could be more suitable to celebrate than a decent sparkling red wine. Most sparkling wines are either white or rosé; and whilst pink may be considered a romantic colour, red, especially in China, is undeniably positive.
The sparkling red with the longest history is Lambrusco from Central-Northern Italy. Lambrusco is the name of the grape variety used and the region of production is Emilia-Romagna, famous for its especially rich cuisine (in which butter and olive oil are frequently combined and Parma ham and Parmesan are not far behind).
(Photo: www.turismo.comune.mo.it)
Buying good Lambrusco is difficult: firstly, there are four types of which one, Lambrusco Reggiano, is sweet, while the other three are off-dry. There is also a glut of cheap Lambrusco, which unfairly tarnishes the image of what can be a wonderful wine (we once tried a Lambrusco in Bologna produced by Rinaldi Rinaldini that was a superb example).
Generally, high quality Lambrusco should be medium to deep red in colour with a generous sparkle, attractive red cherry fruit and refreshing, integrated acidity – perfect with many types of food from Italian pasta with tomato sauce to Hunan dishes (in Bologna the wine accompaines tortellini in broth or rich ragu sauces).
The other main sparkling red is the uniquely Australian Sparkling Shiraz (see this month’s Wine Picks for an example). This can be made from 100% Shiraz grapes or may have other red grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon blended into the base wine. It is generally off-dry but higher quality and usually more expensive examples will be essentially dry.
Like many other forms of Australian Shirazes, Sparkling Shiraz is full of berry fruits (mulberry, blueberry, blackberry, etc.) and has a very friendly palate with gentle acidity. However, unlike other styles, Sparkling Shiraz should be very low in tannin, thus the palate should not astringent at all.
Sparkling Shiraz should be easy to drink and is a great wine to pair with such classics as Beijing roast duck, hamburgers and many other forms of grilled or roast meat.
Wednesday, September 30th, 2009
(Above: Andrew Caillard MW presents)
23rd September 2009
Andrew Caillard MW of Australian fine wine auctioneers Langton’s - creators of the Langton Classification (1991) - presented this year’s Landmark Tasting courtesy of Wine Australia at the Park Hyatt, Beijing.
The Landmark wines, as their title suggests, represent some of the most notable achievements in Australian winemaking taken from the general topography of Australia’s diverse regional offerings where another tier of Regional Heroes can be found (’regionality‘ being the critical and often apt buzz-word among Australian wine circles).
This was the second year in which a selection of Landmark wines were shown in Beijing to a select group of local media, F&B, wine educators and wine importer-distributors influential throughout the PRC; joined by AWBC representatives, the new Chairman of the AWBC James Dominguez and personnel from Austrade.
Caillard gave a fun and informative introduction to each of the below wines, providing some compelling anecdotal glimpses into their respective histories in a presentation carefully pitched to the assembled audience. Certainly, as elsewhere in the world, but especially so in China, it is a critical time to introduce or re-introduce the fine wine message with respect to Australia (which has come in for a fair amount of flack in the international wine press).
For my part, the tasting and dinner were an incredible experience, a privilege; as the below wines should amply indicate:
On tasting were (click on links for full tasting notes):
2002 House of Arras Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir, Tasmania
2009 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley
1999 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley
2006 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River
2006 Giaconda Chardonnay, Beechworth
2007 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland
2006 Mount Mary Quintet Cabernets, Yarra Valley
2004 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River
2004 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
2008 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Canberra District
2004 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley
2004 Penfolds Grange, South Australia
2007 De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon, Riverina
1909 Seppeltsfield 100-Year Old Vintage Tawny, Barossa Valley
(For anyone interested in a vertical tasting of Penfolds Grange, featuring the 1983, 1991, 1998, 1999 and 2003 vintages, please click here).
Guests then sat down to a sensibly chosen and innovative menu, enjoying the following dishes (with some of the Landmark wines re-tasted for good measure):
Oolong tea-smoked lobster, chrysanthemum cress in a seasame-soy vinaigrette with blue-fina tuna and scallop timtable
2009 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley
Twice-cooked crispy duck “Mille Feuille” in sweet and sour kumquat sauce with foie gras and a taro-truffle fritter
2007 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland
Jasmine tea and lychee sorbet (served in ice - as pictured above)
Wok-fried Wagyu beef tenderloin in black pepper sauce with braised veal cheeks in abalone sauce accompanied by sauteed pea sprouts and pumpkin risotto
2008 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Canberra District
2004 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
Imperial bird’s nest, coconut pudding and sherry ice cream
1909 Seppeltsfield Para 100 Year-Old Vintage Tawny, Barossa Valley
All in all, this was a very wine-friendly menu and especially appropriate for the fruit-driven complexity of many Australian wines. The below picture of the 1909 Seppeltsfield Vintage Tawny almost captures its dark brown oxidized colour, an incredible wine to experience (all tasting notes above on Adegga).
Our thanks to Wine Australia, Austrade and Andrew Caillard MW.
Thursday, September 24th, 2009
Rounding off the end of September’s Beijing wine events in style, Torres China hosted its third annual Taste of the Nations portfolio tasting at the Chilean Embassy in Beijing.
(Read more about previous tastings here: 2008 Taste of the Nations, 2007 Taste of the Nations Part I, 2007 Taste of the Nations Part II).
Among dozens of wines, we tasted a snap-shot and took notes on the following:
Champagne Taittinger Brut Vintage 2002
Torres ‘Natureo’ Muscat, Catalunya 2007
Pintia, Toro 2005
Torres Mas La Plana, Penedes 2005
Symington Family Estates Altano Red, Douro 2006
Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003
Domaine Bila-Haut ‘Occultum Lapidem’, M. Chapoutier 2006
Gigondas, M. Chapoutier 2006
Chateaneuf-du-Pape ‘La Bernardine’, M. Chapoutier 2005
Grosset Springvale Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley 2007
Bass Phillip Estate Pinot Noir, South Gippsland 2007
Henschke Keyneton Estate Euphonium, Eden Valley 2005
John Duval ‘Plexus’ SGM, Barossa Valley 2006
The Australian wines on offer were especially strong and the 2003 Graham’s LBV stunning.
Monday, September 14th, 2009
In association with importer Mercuris Fine Wines, Nick Yap of Aussie power-house Angove’s recently visited Beijing to host a media lunch at The Opposite House’s Sureno restaurant.
This tasting was something of an education because I hadn’t realized, among the many wines and brandies Angove’s produces, that there were some very good value wines in the Nine Vines and, especially, the Vineyard Select range.
Winemaker Tony Ingle and team are clearly doing great things. If you get a chance to sample the immensely refreshing Nine Vines Grenache Shiraz Rosé, do! (Ingle recently described this as his version of an eminently food-friendly Provence rosé).
Here’s what we tasted:
Angove’s Vineyard Select Clare Valley Riesling 2007
Angove’s Vineyard Select Limestone Coast Chardonnay 2007
Angove’s Nine Vines Shiraz-Viognier 2007
Angove’s Vineyard Select McLaren Vale Shiraz 2006
Angove’s Vineyard Select Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Sunday, September 13th, 2009
Dean Hewitson of eponymous South Australian winery Hewitson recently presented a range of his wines with importer The Wine Republic at popular Sanlitun eatery Mosto.
Hewitson makes some of South Australia’s most restrained and elegant wines including some superb old vine Mourvèdre (these are genuinely ‘old vine’ emanating from a vineyard planted in 1853 - see below).
Unusual in this line-up was also the Private Cellar Shiraz Mourvèdre blend.
Here’s what we tasted:
Hewitson ‘Gun Metal’ Riesling, Eden Valley 2007
Hewitson ‘Lulu’ Viognier, Victoria 2006
Hewitson ‘Ned & Henry’ Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2006
Hewitson ‘Mad Hatter’ Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2006
Hewitson ‘Old Garden’ Mourvedre, Barossa Valley 2006
Hewitson ‘Private Cellar’ Shiraz Mourvedre 2006
Many of the reds will pay long-term cellaring, although the Ned & Henry will be approachable younger. The Lulu Viognier was varietally pure, racy and not too heavy (none of that overly extracted, glycerol mouthfeel); whilst the Gun Metal Riesling is as flinty, smoky and impressively ‘mineral’ as one could wish.
Friday, August 14th, 2009
On the back of our 17-day trail-blazing tour of Australia’s major wine regions, we thought we’d recommend two reliable Aussie wines.
Both are from large scale producers that many think of as simply ‘cheap and cheerful’; but do get round to sampling Angove’s Vineyard Select range - the below Clare Riesling is very good and the McLaren Vale Shiraz and Coonowarra Cabernet are both superb - and Jacob’s Creek’s Reserve range.
Jacob’s Creek also offers the top-notch Heritage wines which few of us outside of Australia ever knew about until getting round to discovering what this mammoth company actually produces.
2008 Angove’s Vineyard Select Clare Valley Riesling, South Australia (RMB 249)
Available from Mercuris Fine Wines, contact Olivier Gilles: olivier.gilles@mercuris.com.cn
Australia’s Clare Valley is home to some of the world’s most exciting dry Riesling. This example from Angove’s is elegant and restrained. Light green in colour, the nose has gorgeous lime fruit with mineral aromas followed up by refreshing acidity and lovely length on the palate. Fantastic with Chinese cold platters, Cantonese seafood or whole fish dishes and even Sichuan dishes (as well as summertime salads).
2006 Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz, South Australia (RMB 170)
Available from Pernod Ricard, contact Jane Liu: jane.liu@pernod-ricard-china.com
Jacob’s Creek is a large-scale, reliable producer, but some wine lovers have not tried the promsing Reserve or excellent Heritage wines. This is classic South Australian Shiraz sourced from several regions within the state. Dark purple in colour, the nose has attractive black cherry and blueberry fruit with well-integrated French and American oak (giving a touch of vanilla and other spicy aromas). The palate has lovely fruit, good acidity, chewy ripe tannins and promising length. Great with beef or lamb, this robust Shiraz can also match meat-filled jiaozi or Beijing duck.
Saturday, April 11th, 2009
11th April 2009
At China Agricultural University some 170 students gathered to hear Fongyee deliver a lecture and wine-tasting seminar focusing on the wines of Robert Mondavi (as donated by Constellation and organized through local wine importer Jebsen).
The lecture was part of the popular series intiated by Prof. Ma Huiqin (of CAU) which opens its doors to several other Beijing universities.
This was the first occasion that a sizeable number of the audience had tasted wine and the wines chosen were designed to reflect varietal differences and consistency of style for entry-level Californian.
Thus, under Fongyee’s guidance, the students tasted their way through the following:
2007 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Sauvignon Blanc
2007 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Chardonnay
2006 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Shiraz
2006 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Cabernet Sauvignon
It was fascinating to hear the students’ first impressions of the wines. These were consistent with what we hear from many Chinese tasters.
For example, although the aromatic nose of the Sauvignon Blanc proved attractive, many struggled with the inherent acidity of the grape. Generally speaking, much of the audience preferred the mouthfeel and lower acidity of the Chardonnay; although not all warmed to oak flavour.
Of the reds, the distinctive fruitiness of Shiraz matched by ripe, chewy but not too high tannins proved popular.
By contrast, many of the students were surprised they didn’t like the Cabernet Sauvignon more – a grape variety extensively grown and recognized in China (in various forms). As for many Chinese tasters, however, the tannic structure of Cabernet – although blended here according to the 75% labelling rule in California – is not especially appealing.
Wineries interested in supporting the CAU programme should contact Fongyee on fongyee@longfengwines.com
Sunday, February 8th, 2009
8th February 2009
It was on a wet, slightly windy and foggy morning that I headed up from Yountville to Oakville and the home of Franciscan Estate.
If anyone wants to get a sense of what Napa fog can do, the below photo should give a decent impression.
Such fogs have a cooling effect, but usually disperse, especially during the warmer months, before moisture can become a problem for the vines.
Napa’s need of rain also made me think about grateful vine growers (although it would take a lot more than one or two downpours to make a significant difference).
In turning into Franciscan, I had thought I would have an easy ride tasting my way through the winery’s portfolio. But Senior Wine Educator Greg Glorio had a blind-tasting in store for me from the Icon Estates entire range (Franciscan is now part of Constellation).
Personally, I was happy for the opportunity to blind-taste (long gone are my Cambridge days of intensive blind-tasting training, although I do periodically blind-taste for Chinese magazines). There was also a warm fire.
Here’s what we tasted:
Kim Crawford Pinot Gris, Marlborough 2007
Estancia Pinot Gris, Central Coast, California 2007
Franciscan Estate Merlot, Napa Valley 2005
Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2005
Tintara Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2005
Most of these wines were varietally distinctive, although the Tintara Shiraz - lovely though it was - did not have as much blueberry fruit as Shiraz usually shows (it turned out there’s a significant amount of Petit Verdot in that wine).
All in all, this was a very fun tasting and the Franciscan and Mount Veeder wines were competently made.
Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008
2nd December 2008
A tasting of the wines of Yering Station with Olimpia Luciano (pictured left) of the Rathbone Group and importer The Wine Republic at promising new Sanlitun restaurant Mosto.
The Rathbone Group controls not only Yarra Valley’s Yering Station, but also Mount Langi Ghiran (Grampians, Victoria), Parker Coonawarra Estate (Coonawarra, South Australia) and Margaret River’s Xanadu, all of whom The Wine Republic also carries.
Luciano, on her first trip to Beijing, was sanguine about the opportunities facing Australian wines in China.
We also talked in some detail, with Wang Xin (Editor, Wine in China magazine), about the potential for matching Aussie wines with China’s different cuisines - something we’ve written about before and an area which surely has a great future…
On tasting were (click on links for full tasting notes):
Yering Station MVR, Yarra Valley 2006
Yering Station Chardonnay, Yarra Valley 2005
Yering Station Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley 2005
Yering Station Shiraz Viognier, Yarra Valley 2006
Yering Station Reserve Shiraz Viognier, Yarra Valley 2005
All of these wines are really cleanly made with strong varietal character(s), but elegantly expressed (not overblown or over-ripe or over-oaked).
The 2005 Reserve Shiraz Viognier is stupendously good!
NV McGuigan Sparkling Shiraz Black Label, Australia (RMB 128)
