Saturday, April 11th, 2009
11th April 2009
At China Agricultural University some 170 students gathered to hear Fongyee deliver a lecture and wine-tasting seminar focusing on the wines of Robert Mondavi (as donated by Constellation and organized through local wine importer Jebsen).
The lecture was part of the popular series intiated by Prof. Ma Huiqin (of CAU) which opens its doors to several other Beijing universities.
This was the first occasion that a sizeable number of the audience had tasted wine and the wines chosen were designed to reflect varietal differences and consistency of style for entry-level Californian.
Thus, under Fongyee’s guidance, the students tasted their way through the following:
2007 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Sauvignon Blanc
2007 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Chardonnay
2006 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Shiraz
2006 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Cabernet Sauvignon
It was fascinating to hear the students’ first impressions of the wines. These were consistent with what we hear from many Chinese tasters.
For example, although the aromatic nose of the Sauvignon Blanc proved attractive, many struggled with the inherent acidity of the grape. Generally speaking, much of the audience preferred the mouthfeel and lower acidity of the Chardonnay; although not all warmed to oak flavour.
Of the reds, the distinctive fruitiness of Shiraz matched by ripe, chewy but not too high tannins proved popular.
By contrast, many of the students were surprised they didn’t like the Cabernet Sauvignon more – a grape variety extensively grown and recognized in China (in various forms). As for many Chinese tasters, however, the tannic structure of Cabernet – although blended here according to the 75% labelling rule in California – is not especially appealing.
Wineries interested in supporting the CAU programme should contact Fongyee on fongyee@longfengwines.com
Monday, March 2nd, 2009
The wood of the oak tree plays various roles in winemaking. Winemakers can choose to ferment grapes in oak barrels and then age the wine in oak, if they wish; or they can ferment in a neutral vessel (e.g. stainless steel) and then mature in oak, if necessary.
Generally speaking, only certain grape varieties (or blends) suit the flavours oak confers. For example, white grapes like Chardonnay and Semillon like oak a lot! Some blended whites (e.g. Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blends) may also be exposed to oak.
Chardonnay is an especially neutral grape that usually reflects the climate in which it is grown rather than having intense flavours of its own. So, winemakers especially like to oak Chardonnay to add toasty, smoky, vanilla or other spicy aromas. Most red wines will also spend some time in oak too; as black grape varieties are generally much better at coping with oak as a flavouring component.
However, old oak is sometimes preferred because it does not impart any oak character at all. Instead, these old oak barrels act simply as vessels for maturing or storing the wine. This is important if you want to concentrate the alcohol or gently expose the wine to oxygen over a long period of ageing as, for example, with wood-aged fortified wines.
Next time: oak terms and what to drink if you don’t like oak!
Wednesday, February 25th, 2009
25th February 2009
Jeannette Bruwer of South Africa’s Springfield Estate (located in Robertson) joined up with importer Links China to host a fascinating dinner at Beijing’s Le Quai (part of the Slow Food group).
Springfield Estate has some interesting wine-making techniques to offer its ‘themed’ wines: for example, the ‘Wild Yeast’ Chardonnay (unsurprisingly, fermented with exclusively wild yeasts), the ‘Whole Berry’ Cabernet Sauvignon (whole-berry fermented, following de-stemming) and impressive ‘The Work of Time’ red blend which is held back before release.
Here’s what we tasted:
Springfield Estate ‘Life from Stone’ Sauvignon Blanc, Robertson 2008
Springfield Estate ‘Wild Yeast’ Chardonnay, Robertson 2005
Springfield Estate ‘Whole Berry’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Robertson 2005
Springfield Estate ‘The Work of Time’, Robertson 2005
Thursday, February 12th, 2009
12th February 2009
Following a superb tasting at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, we rolled up for our final visit of the tour at Cakebread. We were already fans of Cakebread’s Sauvignon Blanc, but were able on this occasion to taste a much fuller range (of which the Dancing Bear Cabernets from the Howell Mountain area were especially good):
Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2007
Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay, Napa 2007
Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros, Napa 2006
Cakebread Cellars Rubaiyat, North Coast 2006
Cakebread Cellars Zinfandel, Lake County 2005
Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Cakebread Cellars ‘Dancing Bear’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa 2004
Cakebread Cellars ‘Dancing Bear’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa 2005
The wines are available in China through ASC.
Thursday, February 12th, 2009
12th February 2009
Nearing the end of our time in Napa, we were highly fortunate to enjoy a tasting and tour at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars with exemplary guide Laura Weaver.
Among the ‘premium’ Cabernets, the Fay Vineyard has the brightest and most attractive fruit at an early stage, whilst the SLV and Cask 23 will need considerable ageing to show more favourably (brilliant though they are). Don’t overlook the Artemis Cabernet blend or excellent Chardonnays either.
Here’s what we tasted (click on links for full tasting notes):
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Rancho Chimiles’ Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2007
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Arcadia Vineyard’ Estate Chardonnay, Napa 2006
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Karia’ Chardonnay, Napa 2007
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Merlot, Napa 2006
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Artemis’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2006
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Fay Vineyard’ Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘SLV’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Cask 23’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
In China the majority of the wines are available from Summergate Fine Wines.
Tuesday, February 10th, 2009
10th February 2009
Following a pretty impressive tasting at Clos du Val, I crossed the road to Silverado and enjoyed a very informative and fascinating line-up of wines with GM Russell Weiss and his very helpful team.
This transpired to be another chance to taste some older vintages of Californian Cabernet (having had a similar experience at Simi). Brit though I am, I’m convinced that many Californian classics and many of Australia’s iconic wines are often consumed too young; or at least without enough time in bottle to show their full colours.
Here’s what we tasted (click on links for full tasting notes). The 1998 and 1982 Napa Cabs were especially fascinating to taste:
Silverado Vineyards Miller Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2007
Silverado Vineyards Vineburg Chardonnay, Carneros, Sonoma 2006
Silverado Vineyards Sangiovese, Napa 2006
Silverado Vineyards Zinfandel, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards ‘Fantasia’, Napa 2006
Silverado Vineyards Merlot, Napa 2004
Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards ‘Solo’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards ‘Limited Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 1998
Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 1982
Sunday, February 8th, 2009
8th February 2009
After an entertaining tasting at Franciscan Estate and a leisurely lunch, I rolled up at the Robert Mondavi Winery - only a stone’s throw from Franciscan - to meet Senior Wine Educator Dana Andrus.
A veteran of the Mondavi team, Andrus explained the original vision of Robert Mondavi and the formation of the Oakville estate.
He also clarified the current relationship between Opus One and the Robert Mondavi Winery - now both owned by Constellation - which are distributed through different channels; with Genevieve Janssens, former winemaker at Opus One, now serving as Director of Winemaking at Robert Mondavi alone.
I saw plenty of largely Cabernet Sauvignon vines beautifully tended and fitted to drip-irrigation (as in the above photo).
We then turned to the wine-making side. Among the masses of impressive and immaculate equipment, perhaps the Mondavi barrel room is the greatest attraction (see below).
Just as I was admiring these tranquil surroundings, jets of intense mist were suddenly sprayed all over the cellar (in order to maintain reasonable humidity).
There was also a state-of-the-art bottling line, not only used for the Mondavi wines but by other properties too.
All very impressive, but how were the wines?
I have to admit that as a Brit I find it hard to fall in love with US marketing-speak and had wondered just how good the Mondavi wines might be.
Thankfully, Andrus had nothing to peddle but his considerable knowledge of Napa and a genuine desire to share fine wine.
We sat down to a tasting of the following:
Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa 2007
Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc Reserve, Napa 2006
Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Reserve, Carneros, Napa 2006
Robert Mondavi Merlot, Napa 2005
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2006
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville (Napa Valley) 2005
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa 2005
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa 1999
All were made extremely well and more than that had elegance, finesse and something above varietal purity.
Andrus explained how the Mondavi Fume Blanc have changed stylistically over the years (with less oak and riper Sauvignon fruit coming to prominence). I especially liked the Carneros Reserve Pinot and for sheer value the Napa and Oakville basic Cabernets.
However, the Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wines - compared with what is asked for some Napa Cabernets - are still, in relative terms, very good indeed for their asking price (see individual notes) and I was impressed that some older vintages were similarly priced to the current release (even given vintage variation).
Saturday, February 7th, 2009
7th February 2009
After an enjoyable tasting at Clos du Bois, I rolled up to Simi in nearby Healdsburg full of expectation. Simi is another Sonoma property with a venerable history which is now part of the Constellation portfolio. Like Clos du Bois it has maintained its own identity and the tasting room was heaving (all the more surprising given this was February).
Wine educator Luke McCloud showed me the facility and set up a fabulous tasting with some older vintages. Like many Brits I’ve not had the chance to taste old or older Californian wines and, as if the Paris tastings were not evidence enough, the higher quality wines can age superbly.
After the tour, we tasted our way through:
Simi Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley 2007
Simi Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County 2007
Simi Sauvignon Blanc, Alexander Valley 2006
Simi Chardonnay, Sonoma County 2007
Simi Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2006
Simi ‘Roseto’, Sonoma County 2007
Simi Zinfandel, Sonoma County 2006
Simi Merlot, Sonoma County 2005
Simi Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 2005
Simi ‘Landslide’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 2005
Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 2004
Simi Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 1995
Simi Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 1974
Of the older wines, the 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon was holding up better than the 1974, but the ‘74 had survived remarkably well (if only a little tired now).
I also tasted, but failed to note an excellent late harvest Riesling (Simi also occasionally produces a late harvest Chardonnay, but I’m not sure if it’s for commercial release).
All in all, these were distinctive wines. In some ways I found the ‘lower end’ bottles (the Pinot Gris and basic Sauvignon Blanc) to be less impressive than Clos du Bois’s entry level, but they were perfectly well-made.
Simi may have had the edge on its medium to higher range; although I admit to being biased in the face of the older vintages.
Both wineries are certainly worth a visit.
Friday, February 6th, 2009
6th February 2009
After dropping off Fongyee in Yountville for the first day of her MW course, I thought I’d take a drive through central Napa. I had hoped to drive up north all the way to Calistoga, but the heavens opened and the valley soaked up some much-needed rain. As the first drops fell, I turned off the road at Grgich Hills Estate in Rutherford.
Veteran winemaker Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich, now in his mid-eighties, has had a distinguished career in the valley, one of its early pioneers for the quality wine revolution. Given this was my first Napa winery visit, I had half-feared a ‘hard-sell’ tasting room with staff telling consumers what to think of the wines, reeling off medals won and other accolades (Wine Spectator and Parker points etc. etc.)
In reality staff were engaging, well-trained and highly informative. Amanda Safford, a student at UC Davis, explained the history of the estate and how it came to be the US largest biodynamic winery.
I was then lucky to taste my way through the following:
Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay, Napa 2006
Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay Carneros Selection, Napa (Carneros) 2005
Grgich Hills Estate Fumé Blanc, Napa 2007
Grgich Hills Estate Zinfandel, Napa 2006
Grgich Hills Estate Merlot, Napa 2007
Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2007
Grgich Hills Estate Merlot, Napa 2005
Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2004
All in all, these were elegant, restrained wines with great character.
I thought the whites were stronger than the reds on the whole, but it would be unfortunate to generalize from only a handful of bottles.
A very good introduction to Napa, certainly.
Monday, December 8th, 2008
8th December 2008
Top Marlborough producer Spy Valley visited Beijing, hosting, with importer Watson’s, an impressive dinner at the JW Marriott’s Pinot Brasserie.
Winery general manager, Blair Gibbs - a winemaker in his own right - talked of the unique conditions of the estate’s terroir, especially for Spy Valley’s Envoy range for which fruit is sourced exclusively from select plots of the winery’s Johnson Estate.
Pinot Brasserie put together an excellent menu (see below) to match with the following wines (click on links for full tasting notes):
Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2006
Spy Valley Envoy Chardonnay, Marlborough 2006
Spy Valley Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2007
Spy Valley Envoy Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2006
Menu:
Canapés: chestnut cappuccino and bruschetta of grilled shrimp with pepper compote
Seared-tuna with exotic fruit dressing
Risotto of black olives and parmesan
Caramelized lamb shank, white bean purée and vegetable confit
Tobacco infused chocolate praline mousse with cherry and capsicum jelly, redcurrants and a pecan cocoa nib crunch
Spy Valley’s wines are immensely pure, exhibiting very clean winemaking, strong varietal character but also more complexity than can be found on regular, albeit already relatively high quality, New Zealand wines.
The difference in styles between the Spy Valley Pinot and Spy Valley Envoy Pinot should please different Pinot Noir lovers from around the world.
