Friday, August 6th, 2010
Note: wine lover, collector and Dragon Phoenix student, Michael Ma, reports on a special tasting…
Over three decades ago Steven Spurrier set up his legendary Judgement of Paris tasting which placed California on the international wine map. The matchup between the Californian reds and whites against the top Bordeaux and Burgundies of the time is still the topic of debate among wine lovers thirty years later. Recently a similar comparison took place at the New Zealand Embassy in Beijing in an attempt to bestow similar merits on New Zealand’s up and coming appellation: The Gimblett Gravels.
三十年前史蒂芬-斯波尔组织的巴黎品酒大会至曾经将名不见经传的加州葡萄酒展现在世人面前，而今天，新西兰大使馆试图在北京重现历史：将新西兰最好的红葡萄酒对决法国波尔多顶级庄园红酒。让现场在座的品酒专家来评定孰优孰劣。
Despite the mere decade of establishment, everything about Gimblett Gravels sounds full of promise: the unique terroir is the first NZ appellation solely based on the eponymous soil type: gravel. The maritime climate, the lengthened ripening season, then meticulous vineyard management, and the optimal temperature balance: all of Gimblett’s characteristics suggest a parcel of land that shares much of Bordeaux’s hallowed terroir, and perhaps wines to rival the best of Bordeaux.
这次参加品酒会的新西兰红酒全部都产自于金佰利碎石滩。 虽然只有十年的酿酒历史，金伯利产区拥有一切成功的要素。它的土壤结构，海岸气候，湿度和温度均与法国波尔多有着惊人的相似。今天，就让我们一起来看看这片与波尔多相似的土壤，究竟能否产出能够与法国匹敌的红酒。
At this tasting Master of Wine Steve Smith put such hopes to the test. The equally enthusiastic Ambassador of New Zealand, Mr. Carl Worker, was kind enough to lend us his stately residence, in the heart of Beijing’s diplomatic district: a place befitting the occasion, an opportunity for the new to upset the old order and perhaps to conquer mainland China’s affluent but nascent appetite for fine wine.
Eight wines were selected and poured blind. Four were some of the best of younger Bordeaux:
2006 Ch. Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac
2005 Ch. Cos d’Estournel, St. Estephe
2005 Ch. Canon La Gaffeliere, St. Emilion
2006 Pichon Baron-Longueville, Pauillac
Four wines harked from the Gimblett Gravels:
2007 Craggy Range “Sophia”
2007 Craggy Range “The Quarry”
2007 Trinity Hill “The Gimblett”
2007 Sacred Hill “The Helmsman”
在庄严又优雅的新西兰大使馆内，8款红酒静静地在水晶杯中一字排开。其中有法国的2006年拉斐，2005年 Cos d’Estournel, 2005年 Canon La Gaffeliere , 2006年碧尚公爵。新西兰的四款酒分别为 Craggy Range 2007 “索非亚”, Craggy Range 2007 “采石场”，三度山2007， 以及神圣山2007 在场的品酒师们将会盲品这八款酒，猜出产地，以及按质量排序。
The audience was asked to rank the wines from 1-8 in terms of quality and to identify their origins.
All wines served had a deep purple color of varying degree due to their youth. The first one had a closed bouquet of pepper, sour cream, ink and wood. Green and very tannic on the palate, but turned sweet on the 2nd tasting some 30 minutes later. The wine was concentrated, creamy and smoky. Both young and long. The green pepper and the balanced sweet tannins sort of gave away its Saint Emilion birthplace. (This wine turned out to be the 2005 Canon La Gaffeliere).
所有的酒都比较年轻，全部拥有不同深度的紫红色。 第一杯酒气味已开始比较闭塞，有青椒，酸奶油，墨水和木材的味道。入口很青涩。在30分钟后第二次试饮饮的时候经过呼吸后苏醒了过来。味道同样浓郁，富有奶油般的润滑以及烟熏得味道。特有的青椒味道以及均衡的单宁准确地指出了这瓶酒圣爱美隆的产地。（果然是爱美隆名庄Canon La Gaffeliere的酒）
The second wine also had a closed bouquet of cherry, other red fruits and some floral notes. Smelled ‘New World’ with a cherry-candied note. Sweet and pleasant in the mouth, fine tannins, soft and supple body. A hint of milk chocolate in the finish. It was quite clear that it was a Merlot based wine. Most had guessed correctly that it was the Merlot-predominant 2007 Craggy Range Sophia. (Funnily enough, some tasters did not like the wine being too “soft”) 第二款酒头香同样闭塞，淡淡地有些樱桃和红果的味道。新鲜的樱桃味道一闻就知道是新世界的特产。入口甜美柔顺，单宁较软。余味有些白巧克力的味道。这无疑是一款新世界的梅辘Merlot. 比较适合年轻时饮用，但是由于单宁松散，并没有太长的陈年潜力。（后来揭晓是新西兰的索非亚红酒）
Dense, brooding, and inky were the first impressions of the third one in the flight, with a hint of minerality. Acidic and tough tannins on the tongue, sour cream. Concentrated and very balanced, a refreshing after taste that was long. Clearly a young Bordeaux here, classic Pauillac. (This wine turned out to be the 2006 Pichon Baron).
强壮，内敛，仿佛如墨水般的浓郁。第三款酒从杯子里就散发着一股浓浓的男子汉气概。入口酸涩，单宁强劲，酸奶油以及一些矿物质从舌底传了上来。浓郁并且非常平衡的一款酒。（揭晓是2006年非常年轻的碧尚公爵，波尔多大名鼎鼎的二级庄）
The fourth wine was on top form, ‘very Bordeaux’ in style, but showed extra ripeness over its peers. Black pepper, smoke, and meaty aromas on the bouquet, powerful. In the mouth it gave full and gripping tannins, crème de cassis, obviously with a long life ahead of it. Yet underneath the toughness were sweet, ripe and balanced chocolate notes. Long. I was confused at this point; the firm structure and class suggested a fine Bordeaux, but not necessarily its concentration and ripeness. I ventured with a guess that this was the top Cabernet based Craggy Range on show. However it turned out to be the 2005 Cos d’Estournel, almost in garagiste style. Love it, hate it, each to their own. It was the #1 wine for me of the day.
第四款酒性格奔放，毋庸置疑的波尔多贵族气质，但是又比同龄的法国红酒更加成熟、甜美。黑胡椒、烟熏、和卤肉的味道非常浓郁，入口后极浑厚。单宁仿佛抓在嘴唇舌根牢牢不肯放手。在强壮的背后，却是非常迷人的甜美口感，成熟的黑果香好香巧克力。这款酒是典型的波尔多结构，却有着新世界般的浓郁口感和甜度。我开始还以为是新西兰最引以为豪的红酒。最后原来是大名鼎鼎的Cos d’Estournel. 怪不得！2005年分的它比以往更加有力道，有人爱、有人恨，各自感受都不同。对我来说它实在是太好喝了！
To the fifth then. Dense and herbaceous, the nose showed lots of integrated oak, but was still closed. On the palate it was sweet and balanced, surprisingly light on its feet. Fine and gripping tannins, taste of sea salt. This was a classical Bordeaux to me with its elegance and balance. I was surprised to find out that it was the 2007 Sacred Hill Helmsman. What a lovely wine! Not as concentrated as the Cos, but more in the classical Bordeaux style. This wine was my favorite New Zealand wine of the flight.
轮到第五款了。浓郁并且有树木的青涩。酒精和橡木桶与酒体本身结合的非常好。 这酒还没有苏醒呢！入口甜美并且均衡，几乎可以用步履轻盈来形容它了！一股迷人的海盐味道。我以为这是一瓶出身名门的波尔多，却发现它原来是来自新西兰的神圣山2007年份。超值！
Smoke, bacon and oak oozed from the sixth glass. ‘A very nice Bordeaux’ I thought immediately. Black cassis, pepper, chocolate and fine tannins in the mouth, this appeared to be entering into an open phase in its long life. Very approachable now, balanced. (This wine turned out to be the 2006 Lafite, my second favourite, but the group’s first choice)
烟熏，腊肉以及高级橡木味道弥漫在酒杯中。我一下子就觉得这是一瓶似曾相识的波尔多。黑加仑，青椒，巧克力等都不足以形容它复杂的味道。单宁入口也比较柔顺。 原来是我们中国人的最爱拉斐酒王！不过这款酒虽然年轻就已经很好喝了，让我对他的陈年潜力有些许疑问。
Craggy Range “The Quarry” was the seventh wine. It had mint, black fruits, floral and spicy notes on the nose, sweet and forward in the mouth. Structured tannins, good balance and a little high in alcohol (14.3%). Although it went through fine oak treatment, it had the tell-tale sign of cherry-candy that suggested perhaps a New World wine. (Also the mint aroma which can be a sign of top New World Cabernets).
来自新西兰的“采石场”是这组里面的第七款酒。不知道为什么新西兰人总喜欢给他们的酒安上一些奇怪的名字，不过却是比法国的绕口地名好记些。这酒有股独特的薄荷味，以及黑葡萄，香料，和些许花香。入口简单直接，甜美并浓厚。（可能太浓了！14度酒精）。不过典型的新世界樱桃味道。
The last wine was massively extracted. The purple liquid didn’t seem to want to come off the wall of the glass. Crème de cassis, dried dark fruits dominated in what was a straight-forward bouquet. True to its form, it was fruit-forward and concentrated in the mouth. Cherry, mint, oak and fine tannins were notable. Long. (This was the 2007 Trinity Hill “The Gimblett” ).
最后一款酒浓度极高，紫色的酒液挂在杯子上不肯流下来。黑醋栗，黑色浆果以及果酱的味道简单直接又粗暴。樱桃，薄荷，橡木等味道都有体现。余味悠长。（三圣山2007）
Two highlights to take away for me were the sensitivity of the audience’s palates in terms of French/New Zealand differentiation. Most present were on the mark in indentifying the Bordeaux wines among the flight. Perhaps we Chinese indeed drink too much Bordeaux!
品酒会结束后很久大家都还流连忘返。在场的人对波尔多和新世界的区分很敏感，几乎没有人会猜错产地。但是我们都认为在质量上新西兰的酒并没有差的很多，而更多的是个人口味偏好的不同。新西兰的酿酒师们已经证明了他们能够酿出堪比法国的好酒，问题是，他们是否能够跳出模仿的条条框框，不要去攀比波尔多，而能够找到自我，并且超越呢？
Secondly, the closeness in quality (not necessarily style) was impressive. The Gimblett Gravel wines were going against rivals that are 10-50 times more expensive, but held their stands remarkably well. Especially the 2007 Sacred Hill Helmsman, utterly indistinguishable.
So, if the goal was for the New Zealand wines to blow out the top French competition, they didn’t. (Among us, the honorable NZ Ambassador also picked Lafite as his favorite). However, if the goal was to put these wines on the map for Chinese wine drinkers, then we were certainly impressed. Now that the New Zealanders have proven their ability to disguise their wines among the best of the French, perhaps it is time for them to aim to surpass them.
Wednesday, March 17th, 2010
(Photo: wines from the 2009 Landmark Tutorial)
We are delighted to be participating in this year’s Landmark Tutorial, to be held in the Yarra Valley in September.
Joining a group of 14 participants chosen from the around the world, this one-week, residential course exposes students to some of Australia’s greatest winemakers, wine critics, authors and other luminaries as well as several hundred representative and classic wines in vintages old and new (and in all colours and styles!).
Click here for the full list of this year’s participants. Further details on the Tutorial, can be downloaded here.
Click here for this year’s schedule of seminars and activities.
The inaugural Landmark Tutorial, held in 2009 in the Barossa Valley, showcased some 248 Australian fine wines. The success and stimulation of last year’s Tutorial was evidenced by student feedback and on the blog reports of 2009’s alumni, including the likes of Jamie Goode and Julia Harding MW.
We would like to extend our gratitude for enabling us this unique opportunity to the Landmark Tutorial Committee and to Wine Australia/AWBC for launching the initiative.
Watch the Dragon Phoenix Wine Blog for reports on this week-long course as well as our more recent forays within China and around the world.
Edward Ragg & Fongyee Walker
Wednesday, September 30th, 2009
(Above: Andrew Caillard MW presents)
23rd September 2009
Andrew Caillard MW of Australian fine wine auctioneers Langton’s - creators of the Langton Classification (1991) - presented this year’s Landmark Tasting courtesy of Wine Australia at the Park Hyatt, Beijing.
The Landmark wines, as their title suggests, represent some of the most notable achievements in Australian winemaking taken from the general topography of Australia’s diverse regional offerings where another tier of Regional Heroes can be found (’regionality‘ being the critical and often apt buzz-word among Australian wine circles).
This was the second year in which a selection of Landmark wines were shown in Beijing to a select group of local media, F&B, wine educators and wine importer-distributors influential throughout the PRC; joined by AWBC representatives, the new Chairman of the AWBC James Dominguez and personnel from Austrade.
Caillard gave a fun and informative introduction to each of the below wines, providing some compelling anecdotal glimpses into their respective histories in a presentation carefully pitched to the assembled audience. Certainly, as elsewhere in the world, but especially so in China, it is a critical time to introduce or re-introduce the fine wine message with respect to Australia (which has come in for a fair amount of flack in the international wine press).
For my part, the tasting and dinner were an incredible experience, a privilege; as the below wines should amply indicate:
On tasting were (click on links for full tasting notes):
2002 House of Arras Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir, Tasmania
2009 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley
1999 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley
2006 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River
2006 Giaconda Chardonnay, Beechworth
2007 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland
2006 Mount Mary Quintet Cabernets, Yarra Valley
2004 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River
2004 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
2008 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Canberra District
2004 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley
2004 Penfolds Grange, South Australia
2007 De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon, Riverina
1909 Seppeltsfield 100-Year Old Vintage Tawny, Barossa Valley
(For anyone interested in a vertical tasting of Penfolds Grange, featuring the 1983, 1991, 1998, 1999 and 2003 vintages, please click here).
Guests then sat down to a sensibly chosen and innovative menu, enjoying the following dishes (with some of the Landmark wines re-tasted for good measure):
Oolong tea-smoked lobster, chrysanthemum cress in a seasame-soy vinaigrette with blue-fina tuna and scallop timtable
2009 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley
Twice-cooked crispy duck “Mille Feuille” in sweet and sour kumquat sauce with foie gras and a taro-truffle fritter
2007 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland
Jasmine tea and lychee sorbet (served in ice - as pictured above)
Wok-fried Wagyu beef tenderloin in black pepper sauce with braised veal cheeks in abalone sauce accompanied by sauteed pea sprouts and pumpkin risotto
2008 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Canberra District
2004 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
Imperial bird’s nest, coconut pudding and sherry ice cream
1909 Seppeltsfield Para 100 Year-Old Vintage Tawny, Barossa Valley
All in all, this was a very wine-friendly menu and especially appropriate for the fruit-driven complexity of many Australian wines. The below picture of the 1909 Seppeltsfield Vintage Tawny almost captures its dark brown oxidized colour, an incredible wine to experience (all tasting notes above on Adegga).
Our thanks to Wine Australia, Austrade and Andrew Caillard MW.
Thursday, September 24th, 2009
Rounding off the end of September’s Beijing wine events in style, Torres China hosted its third annual Taste of the Nations portfolio tasting at the Chilean Embassy in Beijing.
(Read more about previous tastings here: 2008 Taste of the Nations, 2007 Taste of the Nations Part I, 2007 Taste of the Nations Part II).
Among dozens of wines, we tasted a snap-shot and took notes on the following:
Champagne Taittinger Brut Vintage 2002
Torres ‘Natureo’ Muscat, Catalunya 2007
Pintia, Toro 2005
Torres Mas La Plana, Penedes 2005
Symington Family Estates Altano Red, Douro 2006
Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003
Domaine Bila-Haut ‘Occultum Lapidem’, M. Chapoutier 2006
Gigondas, M. Chapoutier 2006
Chateaneuf-du-Pape ‘La Bernardine’, M. Chapoutier 2005
Grosset Springvale Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley 2007
Bass Phillip Estate Pinot Noir, South Gippsland 2007
Henschke Keyneton Estate Euphonium, Eden Valley 2005
John Duval ‘Plexus’ SGM, Barossa Valley 2006
The Australian wines on offer were especially strong and the 2003 Graham’s LBV stunning.
Monday, September 14th, 2009
In association with importer Mercuris Fine Wines, Nick Yap of Aussie power-house Angove’s recently visited Beijing to host a media lunch at The Opposite House’s Sureno restaurant.
This tasting was something of an education because I hadn’t realized, among the many wines and brandies Angove’s produces, that there were some very good value wines in the Nine Vines and, especially, the Vineyard Select range.
Winemaker Tony Ingle and team are clearly doing great things. If you get a chance to sample the immensely refreshing Nine Vines Grenache Shiraz Rosé, do! (Ingle recently described this as his version of an eminently food-friendly Provence rosé).
Here’s what we tasted:
Angove’s Vineyard Select Clare Valley Riesling 2007
Angove’s Vineyard Select Limestone Coast Chardonnay 2007
Angove’s Nine Vines Shiraz-Viognier 2007
Angove’s Vineyard Select McLaren Vale Shiraz 2006
Angove’s Vineyard Select Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Sunday, September 13th, 2009
As part of Montrose Fine Wines‘ newly revamped portfolio, producers Emilio Moro (Ribera del Duero) and Borsao (Campo de Borja) recently visited Beijing for a sumptuous dinner at Agua (Qianmen No. 23).
The wines from Borsao are dependable and the Tres Picos (a robust Garnacha) proved popular. Emilio Moro, meanwhile, produces some distinctive Ribera and the Finca Resalso (an early drinking example) is likely to be a hit with Chinese tasters.
My wine of the night was, however, the 2005 Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero (although, admittedly, this will benefit from further ageing, however approachable it is now).
On tasting were:
Borsao Rosado Seleccíon, Campo de Borja 2008
Borsao Blanco Seleccíon, Campo de Borja 2007
Emilio Moro ‘Finca Resalso’, Ribera del Duero 2006
Ribera del Duero, Emilio Moro 2005
Borsao ‘Tres Picos’, Campo de Borja 2007
Sunday, September 13th, 2009
(Pandolfini speaks with Wine in China editor Fiona Sun)
Jacopo Pandolfini, Antinori’s new man on the ground in Shanghai, is working closely with importer Summergate to further the cause of Italian wines - and the Antinori portfolio specifically - in China.
On a recent visit to Beijing, Pandolfini spoke with assembled local media over lunch at Sadler restaurant (part of the Qianmen 23 complex).
Mr Pandolfini, who spent three years with Antinori in the US, happily admitted to being on a learning curve in China and was looking forward to his move to Shanghai.
Over lunch we tasted the following food-friendly wines:
Santa Cristina ‘Cipresseto’ IGT Rosé, Tuscany 2006
Santa Cristina Chianti Superiore, Tuscany 2006
Sunday, September 13th, 2009
Dean Hewitson of eponymous South Australian winery Hewitson recently presented a range of his wines with importer The Wine Republic at popular Sanlitun eatery Mosto.
Hewitson makes some of South Australia’s most restrained and elegant wines including some superb old vine Mourvèdre (these are genuinely ‘old vine’ emanating from a vineyard planted in 1853 - see below).
Unusual in this line-up was also the Private Cellar Shiraz Mourvèdre blend.
Here’s what we tasted:
Hewitson ‘Gun Metal’ Riesling, Eden Valley 2007
Hewitson ‘Lulu’ Viognier, Victoria 2006
Hewitson ‘Ned & Henry’ Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2006
Hewitson ‘Mad Hatter’ Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2006
Hewitson ‘Old Garden’ Mourvedre, Barossa Valley 2006
Hewitson ‘Private Cellar’ Shiraz Mourvedre 2006
Many of the reds will pay long-term cellaring, although the Ned & Henry will be approachable younger. The Lulu Viognier was varietally pure, racy and not too heavy (none of that overly extracted, glycerol mouthfeel); whilst the Gun Metal Riesling is as flinty, smoky and impressively ‘mineral’ as one could wish.
Thursday, September 10th, 2009
In the company of Mélanie Tarlant (of Champagne Tarlant) and Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy (of Champagne René Geoffroy) headed up by the team from Globus Fine Wines, we were fortunate to taste the following wines with a special menu at Maison Boulud:
R. Geoffroy ‘Expression’, Champagne
Tarlant ‘Tradition’, Champagne
R. Geoffroy Rosé Saignée, Champagne
R. Geoffroy Cumières Pinot Noir, Champagne
R. Geoffroy Ratafia de la Champagne, Champagne
The wines of both houses are impressive. We enjoyed the Pinot-dominated, rich style of the Tarlant and the delicacy of the Geoffroy wines.
It’s very refreshing to see growers’ Champagnes available in China. Globus also stocks the superb Egly-Ouriet.
Friday, July 17th, 2009
17th July 2009
We’re off to Australia tomorrow for a 17-day tour of the country’s major GIs and sub-regions.
We can promise some fascinating Featured Tastings and Cellar Door write-ups from Victoria, South Australia, Western Australia and New South Wales as well as interviews with celebrated winemakers and other industry leaders.
We’ll also get round to delivering on those promised tastings and other Beijing events from a little earlier this year.
All tastings notes to be available here and on Adegga.
