It’s been a quieter few months on the Dragon Phoenix Wine Blog as Edward has put the finishing touches to a major study of the work of 20th Century American poet Wallace Stevens (1879-1955).

Wallace Stevens and the Aesthetics of Abstraction will be published by Cambridge University Press in August and is the culmination of almost a decade’s research based, in part, on an original Ph.D. dissertation and subsequent research trips to the US supported by the British Academy and British Association for American Studies in 2007.

Stevens is perhaps best known for poems such as ‘The Emperor of Ice-Cream’, ‘Thirteen Ways of Looking at a Blackbird’, his long doctrinal poem ‘Notes Toward a Supreme Fiction’ and his late lyrics, such as ‘Final Soliloquy of the Interior Paramour’. So what’s the connection with wine?

Stevens was something of a wine lover, especially of the wines of Burgundy and one of the book’s chapters is entitled ‘Food, Wine and the Idealist ‘I” (the ‘I’ is a special case of the first person speaker in several of Stevens’ 1940s poems).

The book proffers a long reading of perhaps Stevens’ most baffling gastronomic poem ‘Montrachet-Le-Jardin’, a text whose relationship with Burgundy and with Occupied France of 1942 is both ingenious and has previously remained tough for Stevens scholarship to decipher.

Part of the book’s argument is that Stevens’ embrace of an abstract aesthetic was not confined merely to poetic or artistic concerns, but involved his everyday imagination, interests and needs, including a love of the finer things in life, with wine being no exception (for initials reviews from Charles Altieri and J. Hillis Miller please click here).

This is, after all, the poet who wrote in ‘Notes Toward a Supreme Fiction’:

We drank Meursault, ate lobster Bombay with mango
Chutney. Then the Canon Aspirin declaimed
Of his sister, in what a sensible ecstasy

She lived in her house. She had two daughters, one
Of four, and one of seven, whom she dressed
The way a painter of pauvred color paints.

The study follows on from a joint project entitled Wallace Stevens across the Atlantic (London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2008), pictured above.

Watch this space for updates on our combined wine writing, most recently in Decanter and The World of Fine Wine Magazine. We also have highlights from the 2009 tasting season in Beijing, plus some special Featured Tastings and up-to-date coverage of what’s been happening in China’s capital and further a field.

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2007 Santa Cristina “Cipresseto” Rose IGT 189RMB
Available from Summergate. Contact 010 6562 1800 or www.summergate.com
This lovely rosé is part of the Santa Cristina range from the Italian family firm of Antinori. This is no sickly-sweet candied-berry rosé but one with serious savoury flavours and balance (made from a mix of traditional Tuscan varieties such as Sangiovese). A perfect companion for a summer’s day, this wine is bone dry, refreshing and lively with a delicate redcurrant and strawberry fragrance. The mouth-watering acidity is well-balanced with the fruit and the result is a very food-friendly wine that would go with dishes ranging from salads and patés to fish and chicken as well as lighter Chinese dishes such as shitake mushroom braised with greens or crispy-skinned chicken.

2006 Bourgogne Chardonnay Signature, Maison Champy 332RMB
Available from The Wine Republic. Contact email: orders@thewinerepublic.com or Tel: (010) 5869 7050
An elegant white Burgundy provides a refreshing but sophisticated drink for warm summer days. Maison Champy is one of several negociants to have really upped quality since the late 1990s. This is elegantly made with bright citrus fruit, delicate oak, lifting acidity and a good overall structure. Perfect with a smoked salmon or chicken salad or just by itself. An excellent wine to take as a gift (preferably pre-chilled!) to dinner parties and suitable for lighter cold starters at the Chinese banquet table.

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12th December 2008

Importer Aussino hosted a sumptuous dinner featuring the wines of leading Burgundy negociant eleveur Nicolas Potel at Grange restaurant, the Westin Chaoyang.

Marco Caschera (pictured above) of Nicolas Potel gave an excellent introduction both to Burgundy and to the philosophy of Nicolas Potel (the man and company).

The following wines accompanied the below menu (click on links for full tasting notes).

See below also for details of the charity wine auction that rounded off the dinner in aid of victims of the Sichuan earthquake:

Beaune 1er Cru Vignes Franches, Nicolas Potel 2006

Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes, Nicolas Potel 2004

Volnay 1er Cru Pitures, Nicolas Potel 2003

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel 2003

Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire, Nicolas Potel 1985

Menu:

Gravadlax with pea sprouts and herb vinaigrette

Cappucino of roasted pumpkin with almond creme fraiche

Carpaccio of smoked duck, cajun spice mandarin oranges, arugula and blueberry and balsamic ‘pearls’

Wine enriched loin of venison with dauphinoise potato, roasted brussel sprouts and a raspberry bitter chocolate jus

Cheese

The wines seemed to be in good condition and I especially liked the 2003 Volnay 1er Cru Pitures and the 2004 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes.

The 2003 Clos de la Roche and 2006 Beaune 1er Cru Vignes Franches, however, will both need more time in bottle really.

Certainly no one should overlook 2003 Burgundy outright, even although the vintage conditions were extreme temperature-wise.

In the subsequent auction, Aussino and Caschera managed to raise 7,700RMB for a double magnum of 2005 Volnay 1er Cru Les Pitures and 5,200RMB for a double magnum of 2005 Beaune 1er Cru Teurons.

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20th September 2008

Torres China ‘Taste of the Nations’, Radisson SAS Hotel Beijing

This portfolio tasting, now in its second year, drew quite a crowd at the Beijing Radisson SAS Hotel.

Here is a selection of some of the wines we tasted (click on links for full tasting notes):

Champagne Taittinger Brut Vintage 2002

Domaine de Vaudon Chablis, Joseph Drouhin 2006

Marimar Estate Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2003

Marimar Estate Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2002

Torres Nerola, Catalunya 2005

Torres Gran Coronas, Penedes 2004

Torres Mas La Plana, Penedes 2003

Torres Mas La Plana, Penedes 2004

Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Riesling 2007

Peter Lehmann Art Series Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2005

Peter Lehmann Eight Songs Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2003

Peter Lehmann Mentor, Barossa Valley 2002

Henschke Keyneton Estate Euphonium, Eden & Barossa Valleys 2004

Te Mata Awatea Cabernet Merlot, Hawke’s Bay 2004

We were also impressed with the Kleine Zalze range from Stellenbosch, South Africa, Torres China has just begun importing, especially the 2006 Kleine Zalze Cellar Sellection Pinotage (not always the easiest grape to get right), well-priced at 140RMB.

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5th June 2008

Bacchus Wines invited Bernard Vallet of Burgundy producer Pierre Bourée Fils to Beijing for a whistle-stop tour of the city and its venues. Monsieur Vallet hosted a media lunch at Jasmine restaurant, showing three of his wines. He had recently come from Vinexpo Asia in Hong Kong and had also passed by Seoul and Shanghai en route.

The wines of Pierre Bourée are traditionally-made and have a traditional feel about them. They are ‘old-school’, non-interventionist without being shabby and really reflect their various terroirs (as was clear from the below wines). Vallet explained how, as a négociant-éleveur based in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, the company produces some forty to fifty wines annually.

Of the 2007 vintage, Vallet reported overall high malic acid for both reds and whites and said it was critical to have waited as long as possible before harvesting. Those who panicked and picked early will likely have unruly, tart acidities to their wines. He also mentioned that the 2006 reds, often overshadowed by the whites (particularly Chablis), were now showing much better than people had originally thought.

The overall restraint and delicacy of these wines worked well with the mixture of Chinese cuisines Jasmine offers. Surprisingly, the high acidity in the Pinot Noir worked really well with some of the spicier Sichuan dishes (where the inherent acidity of chilli and garlic usually calls for wines with some residual sugar).

Note: retail prices for these wines are not yet available as they are about to be imported. Please check with Bacchus Wines who has previously imported a number of other Pierre Bourée wines.

2004 Pierre Bourée Marsannay Blanc

Appearance: medium to deep gold.

Nose: pure lemon citrus fruit, some toasty, savoury oak.

Palate: good acidity, pleasant fruit, quite good length and decent oak.

Conclusion: Marsannay is usually forgotten about as a relatively new appellation almost within the environs of the city of Dijon itself. But it is the home of top producer Bruno Clair and can be a source of good value (look out for the distinctive Marsannay rosé too). This wine was showing well. The fruit is sourced from an unnamed single vineyard. In fact, in 2008 Pierre Bourée plans to bring out a single-vineyard red Marsannay with the cheeky title ‘Aux Echézeaux’. Might consumers confuse this with the fabled Echézeaux Grand Cru?

Rating: 16.5/20

2006 Pierre Bourée Meursault

Appearance: deepish gold.

Nose: rich citrus fruit and the lushness typical of Meursault on the nose; lovely oak here too.

Palate: nice vibrant acidity – this is not too fat a style of Meursault – with good length and decent fruit.

Conclusion: although drinkable, this is still pretty young to be honest. Nicely put together. Very typical of the village. Drink 2009-2012.

Rating: 17.5/20

2000 Pierre Bourée Gevrey-Chambertin Clos de la Justice

Appearance: reddish brown colour, orange rim.

Nose: clearly a developed Pinot Noir nose with decaying light red cherry and strawberry fruit matched by savoury sous bois (undergrowth) aromas of mushroom and wet leaves. Perfumed too.

Palate: nice acidity (mellowed with age), low silky tannins, savoury and mellowed fruity notes, quite good length.

Conclusion: certainly to be drunk now. Clos de la Justice is a monopole owned by Pierre Bourée. Nice mature red Burgundy.

Rating: 18/20

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2003 Chassagne-Montrachet, Marc Morey, Burgundy, France

Appearance: medium gold-green.

Nose: very attractive French oak nose matched by ripe citrus fruit – mainly lemon – and possibly some melon fruit too. Also mineral and savoury qualities.

Palate: powerful lemon fruit, impressive acidity for the difficult 2003 vintage, lovely toasty oak and superb length.

Conclusion: this was a very high quality Chassagne and very impressive given the hardships of 2003. This is the first time we’ve tasted Marc Morey’s wines – having drunk much more of Michel Morey-Coffinet in the past (Chassagne is a minefield of Moreys, Coffinets and other relations) – and we were definitely convinced of the quality here (tasted at an event where several bottles were served showing great bottle-to-bottle consistency).

Rating: 18.5/20

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We have to delcare an interest here in that Edward’s brother, Michael Ragg, is co-partner of Mischief & Mayhem, the Burgundian negociant-eleveur based in Aloxe-Corton (which he runs with Michael Twelftree of Barossa-based Two Hands Wines).

But we are not alone in thinking the quality of the wines here is very high. Wine Spectator has awarded repeated high scores in their blind-tastings and quality is set to improve even further, as Bruce Sanderson reported on his recent visit.

In July 2007 we tasted a range of both the white and red 2005s at the property.

Here are our notes on the reds:

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Peuillets

Appearance: medium purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: bright strawberry and raspberry fruit, lovely oak, perfumed.

Palate: attractive red fruits, nice ripe grainy tannins with lovely acidity. Good length.

Conclusion: Very approachable and really good value all round.

Rating: 17.5/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Fournières-Guérets

Appearance: deepish purple-red colour, clear rim.

Nose: red and black cherry nose with some smoke (a darker, even ‘tarry’ nose here). Complex, if a little tight at present.

Palate: strong cherry fruits, largeish chewy tannins on the palate with great acidity and a very good overall structure (fruit-alcohol-acid-tannin balance is very good).

Conclusion: A blend of two Aloxe-Corton Premier Crus, this wine needs time. Will be very good over the next ten years (should keep for even longer).

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Volnay (Vieilles Vignes)

Appearance: bright red-purple colour, clear rim.

Nose: immediately attractive bright red cherry nose with some spice (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg) from the oak here. Very appealing.

Palate: bright, deep fruit from the old vines comes through on the palate which has fine acidity with the tannins arriving ‘later’: these are chunky but still more grainy in texture than chewy exactly. Lovely oak and superb structure.

Conclusion: approachable now, but also a wine that will benefit hugely from cellaring. Very good.

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Gevrey-Chambertin

Appearance: medium purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: pronounced oak but backed by strong fruit (principally red and black cherry, even some plum); fruit becomes more generous as the wine opens out.

Palate: palate is angular with strong red and black fruits, fine acidity and chunky ripe tannins. Good length.

Conclusion: Young and very good. Will get better and better.

Rating: 18/20 [likely to improve]

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Pommard 1er Cru Clos Blanc

Appearance: medium to deep purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: generous fruit and ‘power’: a strong nose of red and black cherry, some plum, nice oak which also contributes some spice.

Palate: more powerful red and black fruits on the palate with increased spice, good acidity and a big Pommard-like structure.

Conclusion: Needs time. Very promising Pommard.

Rating : 17.5/20 [for the moment]

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts

Appearance: more purple than red, clear rim.

Nose: very perfumed first nose with dark red and black fruits, some spice and considerable complexity as the oak marries with the fruit.

Palate: hugely perfumed, lovely fruit; the palate has great acidity with silky elegant tannins and fantastic concentration.

Conclusion: Very, very good.

Rating: 19/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Grand Cru Clos Vougeot

Appearance: basically purple, clear rim.

Nose: very much berry fruit on the first nose (redcurrants, blackcurrant leaf). This bright first nose then reveals darker fruits (black cherry). The nose is almost a cross between the Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts and the Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru blend combining that irresistible perfume of the Vosne (violets and something else I can’t put my finger on) with the tarry, smoky and spicier qualities of the Aloxe.

Palate: the palate has complex fruit, excellent acidity, fine chewy tannins and great length.

Conclusion: Superb, but needs time. This wine is still very young indeed.

Rating: 19/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Grand Cru Corton Bressandes

Appearance: predominately purple, clear rim.

Nose: lovely oak coming through with very ripe, bright, sweet and creamy fruits (mix of red and black fruits again).

Palate: strong fruit, with chewy medium tannins, excellent acidity and very good length.

Conclusion: approachable now, but clearly still a young wine. This bottle was even better than the one tasted the previous day. Very, very good.

Rating: 18.5/20

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We have to delcare an interest here in that Edward’s brother, Michael Ragg, is co-partner of Mischief & Mayhem, the Burgundian negociant-eleveur based in Aloxe-Corton (which he runs with Michael Twelftree of Barossa-based Two Hands Wines).

But we are not alone in thinking the quality of the wines here is very high. Wine Spectator has awarded repeated high scores in their blind-tastings and quality is set to improve even further, as Bruce Sanderson reported on his recent visit.

In July 2007 we tasted a range of both the white and red 2005s at the property. Here are our notes on the whites:

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chablis

Appearance: lightish green gold.

Nose: beautiful mineral nose, light lemon and even green apple fruit here too.

Palate: lovely citrus fruit with more mineral notes (wet stones), excellent acidity and impressive length.

Conclusion: this wine is actually 1er Cru Côte de Léchet, but the decision was to deliver a really good Chablis at a decent price in order to establish something reliable as a new addition to the range (rather than price it at Chablis 1er Cru level). This is very good and should improve in bottle very well.

Rating: 17.5/20 [but will improve]

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chardonnay

Appearance: medium yellow colour.

Nose: lemon fruit with mineral notes, slight oak, fresh, slightly nutty.

Palate: lovely lemon fruit with some well-balanced acidity (even for Chardonnay). Good length.

Conclusion: A very good Bourgogne Blanc.

Rating: 17/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

Appearance: medium green gold.

Nose: intense green apple and lemon fruit, mineral, savoury, concentrated nose.

Palate: marked but integrated high acid, lovely fruit, more mineral flavours, but with a rounded feel too. Intense and full-flavoured.

Conclusion: very promising Grand Cru Chablis with a considerable life ahead of it, if highly drinkable now.

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Meursault

Appearance: deepish yellow.

Nose: very attractive lemon and melon fruit (not too lush) with nicely balanced toasty oak.

Palate: good acidity and soft citrus fruits with a creamy note. Excellent length.

Conclusion: Very good Meursault and should develop very well in bottle.

Rating: 17.5/20 [although another bottle warrants 18/20]

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet

Appearance: pleasant medium gold-green colour.

Nose: strong lemon fruit, hazelnut, minerality (stones). Very attractive integrated nose.

Palate: palate has good concentration and a bit more zip than the Meursault – Puligny’s trademark acidity and minerality coming through – although the fruit is bigger here than in Pulignys from other vintages (2005’s plushness to the fore). Good length and very good all around.

Conclusion: Lovely village Puligny. Will improve well in bottle.

Rating: 18/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains

Appearance: attractive medium gold-green colour.

Nose: toasty oak first nose, also featuring lemon and hazlenuts (as on the village Puligny). Young, complex.

Palate: fruit has soft feel at first on palate, but then the acidity comes through so the mouth-feel is supple, simultaneously lean and rich. Very long.

Conclusion: This is possibly more complex than the village Puligny, but I love the blend of the latter. At this stage, I would rate both wines similarly in qualitative terms, but it will be really interesting to see how they develop. Very good.

Rating: 18/20 [could be 18.5/20 or higher]

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2005 Beaujolais-Villages, Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy, France

Appearance: medium purple-red

Nose: strawberry and raspberry fruit, not too much carbonic maceration going on here so there is not that that bubble-gum, confected flavour. Bright fruit from the 2005 vintage.

Palate: a pleasant palate with low tannins, medium acidity and decent fruit. Quite good length.

Conclusion: representative and solid Beaujolais Villages in an excellent vintage. Not bad value for the Chinese market at 138RMB either from Torres China.

Rating: 16/20

2003 Trentham Estate Ruby Sparkling Shiraz, Murray Darling, New South Wales, Australia

Appearance: deepish purple.

Nose: lovely Shiraz fruit with blackberry, black cherry and even slight pepper (which doesn’t usually come from Aussie Shirazes).

Palate: lovely mousse, great fruit, even some tannin although it seems like every effort has been made to keep these low. Good length.

Conclusion: impressive sparkling Shiraz, a category we need to taste more of! Available from Gelipu for RMB 228.

Rating: 17.5/20

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2001 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains, Louis Etienne et Fils

Appearance: medium green.

Nose: Classic developed Chablis on the nose with mellow green apple fruit, minerality and even slight nuttiness here from the relative age.

Palate: more mellow apple fruit although with slightly sour acidity. Okay length.

Conclusion: This bottle was possible slightly tired, but was pretty good though. Made in a traditional style.

Rating: 16.5/20

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