Wednesday, February 25th, 2009
25th February 2009
Jeannette Bruwer of South Africa’s Springfield Estate (located in Robertson) joined up with importer Links China to host a fascinating dinner at Beijing’s Le Quai (part of the Slow Food group).
Springfield Estate has some interesting wine-making techniques to offer its ‘themed’ wines: for example, the ‘Wild Yeast’ Chardonnay (unsurprisingly, fermented with exclusively wild yeasts), the ‘Whole Berry’ Cabernet Sauvignon (whole-berry fermented, following de-stemming) and impressive ‘The Work of Time’ red blend which is held back before release.
Here’s what we tasted:
Springfield Estate ‘Life from Stone’ Sauvignon Blanc, Robertson 2008
Springfield Estate ‘Wild Yeast’ Chardonnay, Robertson 2005
Springfield Estate ‘Whole Berry’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Robertson 2005
Springfield Estate ‘The Work of Time’, Robertson 2005
Saturday, February 21st, 2009
21st February 2009
After a month away from Beijing - taking in the UK, Canada and the US - we can promise a series of posts on all the wines we tasted in California including winery visits at:
Grgich Hills Estate, Clos du Bois, Simi, Limerick Lane, Franciscan Estate, Robert Mondavi, Heitz Cellars, Clos du Val, Silverado Vineyards, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and Cakebread Cellars.
The first post can be found here: Grgich Hills Estate.
Click on each of the following links for write-ups of each respective winery: Clos du Bois, Simi, Limerick Lane, Franciscan Estate, Robert Mondavi, Heitz Cellars, Clos du Val, Silverado Vineyards, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Cakebread Cellars.
Admittedly, during this marathon tasting tour, Fongyee was mostly couped up in Yountville studying for the Master of Wine programme and Edward set a day aside to complete the Certified Specialist in Wine exam with the Society of Wine Educators in Napa City.
It was a jam-packed trip during which Edward blogged on US site Enobtyes (click here for his first post) and we drafted our first column for The World of Fine Magazine (see forthcoming Issue 23).
But given all the hype surrounding California, especially Napa, what was this cross-section of wines really like? Can they deliver a reasonable quality price ratio within the region and perhaps further a field?
Posts are archived according to time of winery visits (with full accompanying tasting notes on Adegga).
Friday, February 20th, 2009
20th February 2009
At Beijing’s Green T. House, importer ASC launched Bollinger’s first non-vintage rose to a gathering of local media and private wine lovers.
This wine is an impressive effort and will certainly prove competitive opposite other Grands Marques’ attempts at not the easiest style of Champagne.
For a full tasting note, click on the link below.
Bollinger Special Cuvée Rosé
Thursday, February 12th, 2009
12th February 2009
Following a superb tasting at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, we rolled up for our final visit of the tour at Cakebread. We were already fans of Cakebread’s Sauvignon Blanc, but were able on this occasion to taste a much fuller range (of which the Dancing Bear Cabernets from the Howell Mountain area were especially good):
Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2007
Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay, Napa 2007
Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros, Napa 2006
Cakebread Cellars Rubaiyat, North Coast 2006
Cakebread Cellars Zinfandel, Lake County 2005
Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Cakebread Cellars ‘Dancing Bear’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa 2004
Cakebread Cellars ‘Dancing Bear’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa 2005
The wines are available in China through ASC.
Thursday, February 12th, 2009
12th February 2009
Nearing the end of our time in Napa, we were highly fortunate to enjoy a tasting and tour at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars with exemplary guide Laura Weaver.
Among the ‘premium’ Cabernets, the Fay Vineyard has the brightest and most attractive fruit at an early stage, whilst the SLV and Cask 23 will need considerable ageing to show more favourably (brilliant though they are). Don’t overlook the Artemis Cabernet blend or excellent Chardonnays either.
Here’s what we tasted (click on links for full tasting notes):
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Rancho Chimiles’ Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2007
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Arcadia Vineyard’ Estate Chardonnay, Napa 2006
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Karia’ Chardonnay, Napa 2007
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Merlot, Napa 2006
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Artemis’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2006
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Fay Vineyard’ Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘SLV’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Cask 23’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
In China the majority of the wines are available from Summergate Fine Wines.
Tuesday, February 10th, 2009
10th February 2009
Following a pretty impressive tasting at Clos du Val, I crossed the road to Silverado and enjoyed a very informative and fascinating line-up of wines with GM Russell Weiss and his very helpful team.
This transpired to be another chance to taste some older vintages of Californian Cabernet (having had a similar experience at Simi). Brit though I am, I’m convinced that many Californian classics and many of Australia’s iconic wines are often consumed too young; or at least without enough time in bottle to show their full colours.
Here’s what we tasted (click on links for full tasting notes). The 1998 and 1982 Napa Cabs were especially fascinating to taste:
Silverado Vineyards Miller Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2007
Silverado Vineyards Vineburg Chardonnay, Carneros, Sonoma 2006
Silverado Vineyards Sangiovese, Napa 2006
Silverado Vineyards Zinfandel, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards ‘Fantasia’, Napa 2006
Silverado Vineyards Merlot, Napa 2004
Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards ‘Solo’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards ‘Limited Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 1998
Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 1982
Tuesday, February 10th, 2009
10th February 2009
Clos du Val, in the Stag’s Leap district of Napa, is well-known for the restraint and elegance of its wines. Here’s what I tasted on a relatively swift, but highly enjoyable visit.
Clos du Val Chardonnay, Carneros, Napa Valley 2006
Clos du Val Pinot Noir, Carneros, Napa Valley 2006
Clos du Val Pinot Noir Reserve, Carneros, Napa Valley 2005
Clos du Val Merlot, Napa Valley 2005
Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2005
Clos du Val Stag’s Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2005
All the wines are very well made but the Reserve Pinot Noir and Stag’s Leap Cabernet stood out especially.
Monday, February 9th, 2009
9th February 2009
As I rolled up to the cellar door, I realized I was lucky to be visiting Heitz just as the winery was releasing its 2004 Cabernets, including the single-vineyard range.
Here’s a quick preview (together with a number of other Heitz wines). The Bella Oaks Vineyard Cabernet will be superb, as will the Martha’s Vineyard eventually. I was particular taken with the more modestly priced Petit Verdot, however:
Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2004
Heitz Cellar Bella Oaks Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley 2004
Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley 2004
Heitz Cellar Petit Verdot, Napa Valley 2006
Heitz Cellar Ink Grade ‘Port’, Napa Valley
Heitz Cellar Grignolino ‘Port’, Napa Valley 2006
Heitz Cellar Zinfandel, Napa Valley 2005
Sunday, February 8th, 2009
8th February 2009
After an entertaining tasting at Franciscan Estate and a leisurely lunch, I rolled up at the Robert Mondavi Winery - only a stone’s throw from Franciscan - to meet Senior Wine Educator Dana Andrus.
A veteran of the Mondavi team, Andrus explained the original vision of Robert Mondavi and the formation of the Oakville estate.
He also clarified the current relationship between Opus One and the Robert Mondavi Winery - now both owned by Constellation - which are distributed through different channels; with Genevieve Janssens, former winemaker at Opus One, now serving as Director of Winemaking at Robert Mondavi alone.
I saw plenty of largely Cabernet Sauvignon vines beautifully tended and fitted to drip-irrigation (as in the above photo).
We then turned to the wine-making side. Among the masses of impressive and immaculate equipment, perhaps the Mondavi barrel room is the greatest attraction (see below).
Just as I was admiring these tranquil surroundings, jets of intense mist were suddenly sprayed all over the cellar (in order to maintain reasonable humidity).
There was also a state-of-the-art bottling line, not only used for the Mondavi wines but by other properties too.
All very impressive, but how were the wines?
I have to admit that as a Brit I find it hard to fall in love with US marketing-speak and had wondered just how good the Mondavi wines might be.
Thankfully, Andrus had nothing to peddle but his considerable knowledge of Napa and a genuine desire to share fine wine.
We sat down to a tasting of the following:
Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa 2007
Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc Reserve, Napa 2006
Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Reserve, Carneros, Napa 2006
Robert Mondavi Merlot, Napa 2005
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2006
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville (Napa Valley) 2005
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa 2005
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa 1999
All were made extremely well and more than that had elegance, finesse and something above varietal purity.
Andrus explained how the Mondavi Fume Blanc have changed stylistically over the years (with less oak and riper Sauvignon fruit coming to prominence). I especially liked the Carneros Reserve Pinot and for sheer value the Napa and Oakville basic Cabernets.
However, the Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wines - compared with what is asked for some Napa Cabernets - are still, in relative terms, very good indeed for their asking price (see individual notes) and I was impressed that some older vintages were similarly priced to the current release (even given vintage variation).
Sunday, February 8th, 2009
8th February 2009
It was on a wet, slightly windy and foggy morning that I headed up from Yountville to Oakville and the home of Franciscan Estate.
If anyone wants to get a sense of what Napa fog can do, the below photo should give a decent impression.
Such fogs have a cooling effect, but usually disperse, especially during the warmer months, before moisture can become a problem for the vines.
Napa’s need of rain also made me think about grateful vine growers (although it would take a lot more than one or two downpours to make a significant difference).
In turning into Franciscan, I had thought I would have an easy ride tasting my way through the winery’s portfolio. But Senior Wine Educator Greg Glorio had a blind-tasting in store for me from the Icon Estates entire range (Franciscan is now part of Constellation).
Personally, I was happy for the opportunity to blind-taste (long gone are my Cambridge days of intensive blind-tasting training, although I do periodically blind-taste for Chinese magazines). There was also a warm fire.
Here’s what we tasted:
Kim Crawford Pinot Gris, Marlborough 2007
Estancia Pinot Gris, Central Coast, California 2007
Franciscan Estate Merlot, Napa Valley 2005
Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2005
Tintara Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2005
Most of these wines were varietally distinctive, although the Tintara Shiraz - lovely though it was - did not have as much blueberry fruit as Shiraz usually shows (it turned out there’s a significant amount of Petit Verdot in that wine).
All in all, this was a very fun tasting and the Franciscan and Mount Veeder wines were competently made.
