Tuesday, October 28th, 2008
28th October 2008
Watson’s Wines of Hong Kong, now thankfully active in the Beijing market, hosted Margaret River producer Clairault for a special lunch at China World’s Aria restaurant with Clairault’s own chef in tow and a specially devised menu.
On tasting at the lunch were (click on links for full tasting notes):
Clairault Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Served with beetroot-cured salmon with avocado cream, horseradish and a lemon and herb oil
Clairault Cabernet Merlot 2004
Clairault Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Both served with fillet of venison with red wine braised tomato, grilled asparagus, roast leeks and watercress
The Semillon Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Merlot both weigh in at a relatively reasonable 162RMB, well-priced for the Beijing market. The Estate Cabernet is 393RMB, but is clearly a fine wine that, again in terms of the market here, does punch above its weight compared with some of the 400RMB and above offerings we see.
Paul Easden, Clairault Sales Manager, gave a sensibly pitched introduction to the property and Clairault’s philosophy.
These wines are clearly fine additions to Watson’s already impressive list which boasts the likes of Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Jean Grivot, Domaine Leflaive, numerous top Bordeaux properties, Jean Louis Chave and some very good New World producers (e.g. New Zealand’s Palliser and Australia’s Katnook Estate).
Friday, October 24th, 2008
24th October 2008
ASC played host to Chilean producer Vina Carmen adding some higher quality wines all round to its current Chilean offerings (although ASC’s Santa Rita Reserve range is well worth looking at - Santa Rita and Carmen actually being under the same umbrella).
Guests congregated at The Legation Quarter’s Agua restaurant and bar, a Spanish joint also served by Japanese eatery Shiro Matsu, which made for an interesting selection of very well-made canapes.
Wines on offer were (click on links for full tasting notes):
Carmen Classic Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Carmen Reserve Chardonnay 2006
Carmen Nativa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Carmen Reserve Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Carmen Wine Maker’s Reserve Red 2004
Carmen Gold Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
With so many Chilean wines come to China, it was refreshing to see this kind of quality reaching Beijing. Although many of these wines are approachable now - our all round favourite for quality price ratio was the Reserve Chardonnay - some are ageworthy.
Chile has yet to make the kind of great wine of which certain old world countries, California and Australia are capable, but it supplies value for money here and in other markets; and Carmen will perhaps raise the bar even higher in future.
Sunday, October 12th, 2008
At the end of September, I was invited back by organizers Wine China to judge at the Yantai Colombin Cup Wine Challenge, Yantai, Shandong province. In its second year, I was told the competition would involve a mix of Chinese and international wines, but that this time the range would be much larger and with more entries all round. 
It was an exciting but long morning, with judges analyzing in silence a range of wines from white and red to sweet, with even a few spirits thrown in for good measure. Judging in silence, although it has its merits, also has some obvious limitations. This was a very different atmosphere, for example, from the London International Wine Challenge - and I missed the chance to discuss particular wines with the other judges, especially in cases of marginal quality. It would have been more beneficial to taste the wines individually first and then discuss each one in turn. Also, there was a distinct lack of communication concerning faults. A couple of the whites I tasted displayed serious winemaking faults (which I did raise), but this didn’t seem to ruffle many of the other judges. Still, wine-judging is obviously in its infancy in China.
Results (courtesy of the Wine China Website)
The Special Award for Chinese wine went to the Qilu Vidal Reserve Ice Wine made by Qilu Winery in Huanren, Liaoning. I found this to be a pretty strange ice wine myself, with a rather too chemical nose.
The Special Award for Non-Chinese Wine went to 2006 Band of Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra, Australia, well-made and of good quality.
First Prizes for Chinese wine went to:
2006 Yeli Sparkling made by the Yeli winery in Changli, Hebei - this was very interesting. It was almost like a Moscato d’Asti. I’m going to search out some to buy in Beijing!
(No Vintage Given) Mogao Pinot Noir made (Mogao winery in Gansu). It was nice to see an award go to a Chinese Pinot Noir, a grape which is rarely planted here in China. I thought this was fairly well-made Pinot Noir and hope Mogao continues to improve!
First Prizes for non-Chinese wine went to:
2006 Blossom Icewine Riesling Chardonnay from Canada - a decently made typical Canadian icewine, perhaps lacking a bit in acidity but with good flavour.
2006 CUVÉE RITZENTHAL (Blend of Rathay and Roesler) 2006 (red) from Brundy Winery in Wagram, Austria
Other wines that did well included the Cabernet Sauvignon from Mogao (having tasted barrel samples of this, I am pleased that it did well).
There was also a surprisingly light but OK “Eastern Pearl” whisky from Penglai (also in the Shandong pennisula).
In all, it was heartening to see this challenge continuing to its second year and drawing more contestants. However it would also be good to see a wider range of judges, a greater discussion of the wines, and more training for future judges at such events.
