Dragon Phoenix Wine Blog: Welcome
Welcome to the Dragon Phoenix Wine Blog, a wholly independent blog written by Fongyee Walker and Edward Ragg of Dragon Phoenix Fine Wine Consulting, an independent wine consultancy based in Beijing, China.

Here you will find literally hundreds of tasting notes on all the wines we have tasted and rated since 2003, many of which are now available in the Chinese market. Also, check out our Featured Tastings and Interviews with winemakers, winery owners and others involved in the industry.

For an explanation of how we rate the wines and how our tasting notes are organized, please see our Introduction. For a list of our overall aims for the site, please see Aims.

Happy reading and tasting!

Edward Ragg (a.k.a. Wine Dragon)
& Fongyee Walker (a.k.a. Wine Phoenix)

Note: Edward is also a contributor to popular Spanish and Portuguese-focused site Catavino. In addition, we are both happy to be members of Open Wine Consortium, a great network for wine trade professionals and wine lovers as well as Wine Blogger, a fraternity for vinous bloggers which lists the likes of plant scientist and self-proclaimed wine anorak Jamie Goode, Berry Bros. & Rudd and other merchants, various international wineries and a healthy mix of amateurs and professionals alike: for example, Grape Wall of China, a multi-contributor blog on the Chinese wine scene(s). Wine Lovers is another interesting on-line network with a sizeable membership.

Also check out Tom Cannavan's Wine Pages, the most established on-line wine magazine, Chris Kissack's Wine Doctor which has excellent producer profiles and copious tasting notes, Bill Nanson's The Burgundy Report (every Burgundy lover's dream) and, of course, Jancis Robinson MW's immensely readable and also fully independent site.



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Catavino guest blogger appearance: Edward Ragg
Edward was recently invited by popular Spanish and Portuguese wine site Catavino to write a feature on Iberian wines and Vinexpo Asia 2008. To read Edward's report and download his full tasting notes, please click here.

Edward will also shortly be posting on the situation for Iberian wines in mainland China on the Catavino site as well as offering a monthly feature on the developing market for Spanish and Portuguese wines in China.

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Dragon Phoenix Wine Blog: Aims
The Dragon Phoenix Wine Blog was inspired by two factors:

First, we already had a large body of notes on wines from all over the world that we wanted to share with on-line wine lovers. It will take some time to upload all of these, but this is our overall hope for the blog. As we add past notes, we will also post on the wines we are tasting in Beijing and further a field.

Second, we noticed that in China specifically, informed commentary on wine is understandably only just beginning to develop. So we wanted to offer a resource which in the first instance shows how wines are sometimes described internationally. Over time, we will reproduce our notes in Chinese. Our involvement in translation and wine education here has meant that we are attempting to discover a vinous vocabulary in Mandarin (a language already replete with words for myriads smells, tastes and textures).

Our aims are:

a) to offer informed views and full information on wines available in China based on regular and extensive tasting (where possible, with retail prices and suggested drinking times also mentioned).

b) to assemble a compendium of tasting notes on international wines for wine lovers all over the world taken from detailed notes begun in 2003.

c) to report on developments in the China wine industry. Although the mainstay of our work as consultants is not in wine journalism, we will report on what we can. Reliable information is often lacking and it is part of our work here to source and disseminate accurate data.

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WSET Success: Intermediate Course candidates shine
We are delighted to announce that the candidates who recently took our WSET Intermediate Course last month (March 2008) have achieved excellent results!

With a 100% pass rate, 83% achieved Merit or higher with one candidate securing a particularly high Distinction. Congratulations to all of our candidates, all of whom, as Beijing-based Chinese, were taking their exam in a second language. No mean feat.

Dragon Phoenix Fine Wine Consulting is one of Beijing's few Approved Programme Providers for WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust), the UK-based international body that administers wine education qualifications and awards. Our aim is to provide the highest quality of education with extra sessions on tasting and helpful hand-outs in addition to what WSET itself provides.

We welcome applications from the wine trade, wine lovers and other interested parties to study for any of the four qualifications we can offer: WSET Foundation, Intermediate, International Higher and Advanced.

But if WSET is not your thing, don't forget the Dragon Phoenix wine programmes we routinely offer to wine lovers in Beijing.

Note: Fongyee Walker is the only Recommended Tutor & Examiner for WSET in northern China and is the official translator into Chinese of the WSET Foundation Certificate. At Dragon Phoenix, her bilingual teaching is supplemented also by contributions from instructor Edward Ragg. Both are experienced educators having taught extensively at Cambridge and Tsinghua Universities.

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Featured Tasting: The Wine Republic, New Wines for Beijing and Shanghai
12th March 2008: The Wine Republic at Café Europa

An inaugural tasting event celebrating the founding of Beijing’s newest wine company, The Wine Republic, hosted by Managing Director Campbell Thompson.

Guests assembled at Café Europa to sample the wines of Victorian estate Mount Langi Ghiran, part of what looks to be an inspiring range, set to include other Australian producers such as Yering Station, Yarrabank, a joint venture between Yering Station and Champagne Veuve A. Devaux, Parker Coonawarra Estate, Xanadu Wines and Hewitson.

Thompson explained how it was not just important for him to import genuinely good wines into China, but that the logistics-side was a pressing concern: how wine is shipped, how it is stored and transported within mainland China; and, of course, how it finally reaches the consumer.

Those of us who have had clearly heat-damaged bottles know only too well the problems with storage and transportation that routinely occur here.

We were certainly impressed by the quality of Mount Langi Ghiran’s wines (see full tasting notes below) and welcome the appearance of The Wine Republic on the Beijing and Shanghai scenes.

Despite recent shipping, the wines seemed to be in fine fettle. The Wine Republic joins a handful of companies including Globus Wines and Ruby Red Fine Wines (both in Shanghai) that takes issues of transportation and storage seriously.

Each wine was paired by a particular dish and the food-and-wine matching was generally very well-done. Here are our notes:

2004 Mount Langi Ghiran Riesling

Appearance: medium yellow green.

Nose: instantly appealing developed Riesling nose featuring lime and grapefruit aromas with marked kerosene notes. Savoury and subtle.

Palate: mellowed ripe lime fruit with lovely acidity and excellent concentration. Good length too.

Conclusion: impressive Australian Riesling from at least 20 year-old vines. South Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys usually get the limelight for this grape, but it’s lovely to have such a good Victorian example. Very good and capable of some further ageing in bottle if you like your Rieslings a bit older (up to 2010). Went very well with a tuna carpaccio with mango salsa. Note: The Wine Republic will carry the 2007 vintage for those who like a younger expression. Retail approx. 220RMB.

Rating: 18.5/20

2003 Mount Langi Billi Billi Shiraz

Appearance: medium purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: attractive cool-climate Shiraz nose showing black cherry and blueberry fruit with distinctive peppery notes (that pepper is lost in hotter climates, even if Shiraz retains other spicy aromas). Non-intrusive oak, if any here.

Palate: lovely fruit, medium chewy tannins and good acidity here. Pleasant length too.

Conclusion: well put-together and drinking well now. 2003 was not the greatest vintage anywhere in Australia really and a number of reds are looking tired already (certainly in comparison with 2002 and 2005). But this wine is ready and a lovely expression of cool-climate Shiraz. Paired extremely well with a grilled duck breast and rocket and parmesan salad. Retail approx. 180RMB.

Rating: 17/20

2001 Mount Langi Cliff Edge Shiraz

Appearance: dark purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: crushed red and black fruits of various descriptions (everything from red and black cherry to Shiraz’s slight blueberry character), lovely oak (largely French oak here), mature, slightly leathery notes.

Palate: medium-high chewy tannins, although mellowed, backed up by lovely fruit and nice acidity. Alcohol is balanced as it was on the Billi Billi Shiraz above.

Conclusion: lovely cool-climate Shiraz already benefiting from modest ageing. A pretty good accompaniment to the pepper-crusted beef fillet, but I think the pepper in the dish was too much for the wine in this case. A quibble. Retail approx. 260RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2000 Mount Langi Cabernet-Merlot

Appearance: dark purple-red to black, orange rim.

Nose: dark blackcurrant fruit with some plummy notes, nice oak again here. Still quite young on the nose.

Palate: very good palate with integrated medium-high tannins, good fruit, good acidity and impressive length.

Conclusion: this wine still has some time to go really, although it’s clearly drinkable now. Very well-made; but the Cliff Edge Shiraz might be the best of the reds here in terms of quality-price ratio. A pretty good match with the gratinated field mushroom. Retail approx. 420RMB.

Rating: 17.5/20

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Featured Tasting: Terrace Heights Estate hits Beijing
9th March 2008

Cellar Le Pinot, in conjunction with Ruby Red Fine Wines in Shanghai, hosted a dinner in Beijing showcasing the wines of Terrace Heights Estate (THE), Marlborough, New Zealand.

The dinner was held at private dining facility, Il & Elle, which specializes in Huaiyang cuisine with some French twists.

Director of Sales and Marketing, Steve Hammond, had come up from Shanghai on a general China-leg to present his wines. Terrace Heights Estate was born only as recently as 2002 – with the release of its first Sauvignon Blanc – although Hammond has been involved in growing vines in the region since 1993.

These are wines defined by purity of fruit expression and regionality. They are not over-blown in any sense, a far cry from the over-extracted wines that can crop up in Marlborough (that sherbet fruit bomb problem on over-ripe Sauvignon Blanc, for example, where acidity also tends to suffer and alcohol levels creep suspiciously high or otherwise give way to unseemly residual sugar).

Hammond mentioned that most of his wines are designed for early drinking, although the Pinot Noirs should certainly age well in the medium term, perhaps for longer. In fact, we have added some notes from our earlier experiences with Terrace Heights’ Pinots (vintages 2003 and 2004 - see below). These older vintages should still be in fine fettle.

Here are our notes:

2007 Terrace Heights Estate Sauvignon Blanc

Appearance: medium green.

Nose: slight gooseberry, light guava nose, very pure fruit, slight minerality.

Palate: lovely acidity here, great fruit whose concentration comes out gradually, very good length.

Conclusion: this is what Marlborough Sauvignon is really about: purity of Sauvignon Blanc fruit, lively but not too zesty acidity, some mineral notes and cool concentration of flavours. Excellent. Drink now. Retail RMB230.

Rating: 18.5/20

2007 Terrace Heights Estate Pinot Gris

Appearance: deepish yellow with green tints.

Nose: immediate pear fruit, slight spice (white pepper note), other savoury aromas.

Palate: lovely fruit, impressive acidity, well-balanced residual sugar here. Off-dry, integrated.

Conclusion: a good expression of the grape. Doesn’t quite have the finesse of the Sauvignon Blanc, but this is the first time Terrace Heights has released a Pinot Gris. At least the wine is well expressive of grape variety. Made in the traditional Alsace style really with not too high a level of residual sugar, but not as spicy on the nose as Alsatian examples. Good. Drink now. Retail RMB230.

Rating: 17/20

2006 Terrace Heights Estate Pinot Noir

Appearance: dark purple-red.

Nose: attractive, perfumed nose featuring red and black cherry fruit (more cherry here than raspberry or strawberry notes), backed by lovely oak and some spicy aromas (largely traceable to the oak).

Palate: excellent acidity, lovely intensity of fruit with soft, silky medium tannins and nice length.

Conclusion: very well put together Pinot Noir. New Zealand has, of course, shown its powers in managing this unyielding grape variety. Even if some will wonder whether Pinot in New Zealand can attain the heights of greatness occasionally possible in Burgundy, let’s not forget New Zealand has a better track record than France overall at producing reliable Pinot; and with innovations in many regions, including Central Otago, who knows what’s possible. This wine is very well-made. Drink now or up until 2011. Retail RMB430.

Rating: 18/20 [possible higher with time]

Two Older Vintages of the Terrace Heights Estate Pinot Noirs: 2004 & 2003

2004 Terrace Heights Estate Pinot Noir

Note: This wine was tasted on 6th July 2006. It should be even better now.

Appearance: deepish purple-red.

Nose: warm Pinot fruit nose, some floral notes though too. Good oak here.

Palate: high alcohol (actually 14.5% here). But what’s impressive is that the Pinot has not lost typicity: good fruit, nice acidity, medium slightly chewy tannins, good length.

Conclusion: it may be a higher alcohol Pinot than the below 2003, but it’s still well-made. Drink now until 2012.

Rating: 17.5/20

2003 Terrace Heights Estate Pinot Noir

Note: This wine was tasted on 10th July 2006. It should be even better now.

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: showing less alcohol than the 2004 vintage (this wine 13%, the other 14.5%), this has integrated, lush Pinot fruit and shows good use of French oak.

Palate: good fruit, decent structure with low-medium silky tannins and a slight bitterness on the finish (which would probably settle down with further ageing).

Conclusion: very impressive. Should age very well, up to 2012. Would probably go further than the 2004.

Rating: 18.5/20

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Featured Tasting: Ornellaia (1985-2005 Beijing Celebration)
4th March 2008

Jebsen Fine Wines had organized a special tasting held at the newly opened Ritz Carlton Hotel in Beijing’s Chaoyang District - the second Ritz Carlton in the city, in fact, the other being on Financial Street - of the wines of Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, the great Tuscan producer based in Bolgheri and responsible for the legendary Ornellaia.

On tasting were:

2005 Le Volte, Toscana IGT

Appearance: medium red-purple, slight orange rim.

Nose: bright red cherry fruit, possible unoaked (on first nose). Certainly no evidence of new oak treatment.

Palate: nice acidity here, soft red fruits, low-medium silky tannins. Nice length.

Conclusion: this wine is a blend of Sangiovese 50%, Merlot 30% and Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, vinified separately with the blended wine then being aged in 2-4 year old barrels for some 10 months. In other words, not much oak flavour is imparted, if any, as desired. We expected a bit more structure to come through from the Cabernet Sauvignon, but it’s clearly well-made. Drink now or over the next couple of years. Retail RMB255.

Rating: 16/20

2002 Le Serre Nuove Bolgheri DOC

Appearance: medium purple with red tints, slight orange rim.

Nose: bright red and black fruits, noticeable oak, savoury and relatively complex for the vintage.
Palate: nice acidity again here (as you’d expect), angular medium-high chewy tannins, but only medium-bodied throughout. Nice length too.

Conclusion: 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, this wine’s malolactic fermentation began in stainless steel but was finished in barrique (25% new oak, the remaining 75% in once-used barrels). It was then aged in barrique for some 18 months. It’s impressive they were able to produce such a nice wine in the rain-prone 2002 vintage, a bit of a wash-out in Tuscany. Strict selection would have had to be necessary. We preferred this to the Le Volte 2005, however. Jebsen currently offers other vintages of the Le Serre Nuove (2004 and 2005) for RMB616 and RMB633. We’d hope the 2002 is cheaper, if they still have it.

Rating: 17/20

2005 Ornellaia (1985-2005 anniversary bottle)

Appearance: dark purple-red.

Nose: very elegant nose of myriad red and black fruits, toasty oak prevalent at present as well.

Palate: medium-high chunky tannins, lovely acidity, complex fruits gradually revealing themselves. Long.

Conclusion: this must be a special blend for the occasion, as we couldn’t find anything on the Ornellaia website about the constituents or vinification of the 2005. This wine has some of the restraint and elegance of fine Pomerol or other Right Bank Bordeaux, but with more vibrant acidity. Will age for many years, but is approachable now. Retail RMB1915.

Rating: 18/20 [but should get better]

1995 Ornellaia

Appearance: medium red, marked orange rim.

Nose: fading red and black fruits, leaves, decaying oak and other complex savoury smells (mushrooms etc.).

Palate: complex palate which is more youthful than the nose suggests, lovely acidity and great length. Tannins have precipitated out and it’s very smooth and very appealing!

Conclusion: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, this wine was aged for about 16 months in French oak barriques (39% new, 61% once-used), bottled without filtration and matured a further 14 months before release. It’s clearly fine wine and drinking well now. We cannot put a retail price on this wine for the Chinese market, however. The cheapest we’ve seen it on Wine Searcher is around £55 (UK pounds) or $100 (USD). It is likely to be much more expensive in China, if it is available at all.

Rating: 18.5/20

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Four 1977 Ports: Graham's, Dow, Gould Campbell, Warre
1977 is a fabled year for Port lovers, maybe not as great as 1963, but definitely up there along with 1970. Compared with many of the 1980s' vintages, 1977 still stands out (rumours that the 1985 will take more time or may not be what experts thought abound, whilst 1983 has a generally better press with some lovely wines that are already drinking now).

Many of the 1977s are still somewhat young, although, of the below four Ports, Graham's is clearly the most approachable. Port experts (like Richard Mayson) should be consulted for more detailed notes and information on past vintages as well as the various Port shippers (British and Portuguese). We would love to taste, for example, '77 Taylor's and '77 Fonseca, if we ever get the chance.

But we offer some recent notes on four classic wines, all from the Symington Family:

1977 Graham’s

Appearance: medium red-purple, orange rim.

Nose: developed nose of candied red fruits with appealing nutty aromas.

Palate: mellow fruits, integrated high acidity and softened highish residual sugar. Lovely length and tannins now fully integrated.

Conclusion: one of the more forward wines of the vintage, the Graham’s 1977 is drinking really well, although there is no need to hurry (depending on how you like your Port).

Rating: 18.5/20

1977 Dow

Appearance: dark purple-red, slight orange rim.

Nose: rich nose of dark black fruits with definite spicy and savoury notes: clove, cinnamon, white pepper.

Palate: more richness of fruit, slightly chewy but mellowing medium-high tannins, integrated high residual sugar and lovely acidity. Superbly balanced, great length.

Conclusion: this is a fantastic Vintage Port that still has quite a life ahead of it. More sophisticated than the Graham’s, although the Graham’s is very good too. Perhaps it would be better to say that they are stylistically different: the Dow being more heavy-weight (although Dow ’77 still seems leaner than 1977 Warre – see below).

Rating: 19/20

1977 Gould Campbell

Appearance: dark purple-red, slight orange rim.

Nose: attractive black fruits but with some red plum or red cherry thrown into the mix. Some spicy notes. Fruit is more open than on previous bottles of this ’77.

Palate: more appealing black and red fruits, chewy mellowing medium-high tannins, good acidity and generally well-integrated. Decent length.

Conclusion: clearly high quality and of a similar weight to the Dow, although the mouth-feel is slightly different. The Gould Campbell has ‘chunkier’ fruit and is not quite as smooth as the Dow. The fruit is only just starting to open on this Port and it has quite a life ahead of it yet.

Rating: 18.5/20

1977 Warre

Appearance: dark purple-red, only slight orange rim.

Nose: mainly dense black fruits with dark spices (clove, black pepper) and attractive oak (oak seems to be more prominent on this bottle than on some of the other Ports tasted).

Palate: rich black fruits, but not jammy; lovely balance of high acidity to marked residual sugar. Tannins are well-knit and coating rather than being overtly chewy. Great length.

Conclusion: along with the Dow, this is probably our favourite of the bunch, although the quality of the 1977 vintage means it’s pretty hard to go wrong with Vintage Port in this year. Only just beginning to drink really.

Rating: 19/20

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Great Rhone in the Making: 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château de Beaucastel
1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château de Beaucastel, Rhone Valley

Appearance: deep purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: a little closed at first – in fact, the wine seemed to waft ‘in’ and ‘out’ of expression as it developed in the glass – but began to show lovely red and black fruits (mix of blackberry, red and black cherry, redcurrant etc.) with beautiful oak and some distinctive spicy notes (white pepper, black pepper, clove etc.).

Palate: angular fruit that is still young in expression, medium-high acidity, large alcohol but this is well-integrated with some tight ripe medium-high tannins. Very good length.

Conclusion: 1998 was a wonderful vintage in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Beaucastel will go on for some time and should age beautifully. Likely to be a classic.

Rating: 18/20 [will be higher with age]

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Bertrand Sourdais: Brilliant Chinon, Brillliant Ribera
Globus Wines of Shanghai had winemaker extraordinaire Bertrand Sourdais up for a visit in Beijing on the back of a number of Shanghai events.

Sourdais, a former under-study at Château Mouton-Rothschild and Léoville-Las-Cases (who also gained hands-on experience with Chile’s Santa Rita and Priorat’s Álvaro Palacio), comes from a wine-making family in the Loire Valley and since 2003 has been responsible for the vintage at Domaine de Pallus, the family domaine in Chinon.

Sourdais sprung to fame, however, with his stunning Ribera del Duero wines, made at Dominio de Atauta in collaboration with Miguel Sanchez, a notable Madrid wine merchant and distributor who was instrumental in bringing the vineyards of the town of Atauta to public note.

Sanchez has 15 hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and sources fruit from some 600 further plots, many of which clearly contain the oldest vines in the region. Sourdais was explicit in insisting that the Tinto Fino is quite different in morphology and temperament from Tempranillo, at least as it is found in Rioja; and lamented the importation of Rioja Tempranillo into the Ribera region.

Accolades have justifiably followed the wines of Atauta. Nearly every major wine writer including not only Spanish critics but Robert Parker and Michel Bettane has hailed the quality here. But we found the Chinon to be among the best we have had too!

We’re very excited that these kind of wines are available in China and recommend checking out the Globus list. Along with Ruby Red Fine Wines in Shanghai, this is one of the more innovative and exciting companies; and it is no surprise that Globus recently teamed up with Bacchus Wines in Beijing to promote the wines of Alsatian producer Lorentz Klipfel (Bacchus is another supplier to watch).

2005 Les Pensées du Pallus, Chinon

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: very bright red and black fruits (strawberry, blackberry, cherries) with distinctive green pepper and very slight oak.

Palate: excellent acidity here (what Loire Cabernet Franc should be like!), lovely structure with medium chewy tannins and very good length.

Conclusion: this is perhaps the best Chinon we’ve had, easily up there with the wines of Charles Joguet (perhaps even purer in expression). Certainly the best Cabernet Franc we’ve had to date and attractively priced at RMB188.

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Atalayas de Golban, Ribera del Duero

Appearance: dark purple-red, pink rim.

Nose: very concentrated black fruits, with oak ‘just there’ (i.e. very well-integrated). The wine has a perfumed quality which is hard to describe – certainly not reminiscent of Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir. Complex.

Palate: marked acidity, very concentrated but elegant with superb fruit, ripe smooth medium tannins and lovely length.

Conclusion: an ‘atalaya’ is a watchtower and the Golban is a river in the Atauta valley. This is a separate project from the below Dominio de Atauta and the wine is intended for earlier drinking. Fermented in stainless steel with 80% of the wine then being aged in two to three year-old barrels (emanating from Château Haut-Brion), it is beautiful to drink now, but would also benefit from medium-term ageing if desired. Very, very good and quite a competitor to the below Dominio de Atauta, in fact. We prefer the Atalayas now, even although giving the Dominio de Atauta a higher overall rating. Retail RMB228.

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Dominio de Atauta, Ribera del Duero

Appearance: very dark purple to black, pink rim.

Nose: beautiful dark fruits, even more concentrated than the Atalayas de Golban, more overt oak here too. Needs time to develop in the glass, but it is already fragrant.

Palate: marked acidity (the acidity on all of Sourdais’s wines is prominent but pure), integrated medium-high chewy tannins, lovely fruit and very good length.

Conclusion: a blend of Tinto Fino from significant plots with old vines such as La Mala, Punto Alta, Cuesta Moral, and La Solana, this is intense but sophisticated and really needs time right now. Usually aged in 100% new French oak, the fruit is certainly robust enough to warrant this treatment. Wait on this. It will be amazing to see how it ages. Retail RMB465.

Rating: 19/20

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