We met Dr. Sandro Boscaini, President of Veneto producer Masi at the Grand Hyatt, Beijing, at the invitation of ASC.
Dr. Boscaini mentioned that he had come to China on several occasions and had once even transported a gondola to Beijing to display in the Kempinksi Hotel! On this visit, he was happy to talk to journalists about the slowly improving China fine wine market and share his thoughts for the future.
In effect, Masi wants to embrace the new fine wine culture - which is little different, on Boscaini's view, from the worlds of fashion or other consumable designer products - whilst keeping a keen eye on the company’s traditions and innovations. The desire to be ‘glocal’, both global and local was voiced. But Boscaini is hardly satisfied with marketing-speak alone. Conversation soon moved to Veneto wines and the Masi range; and Boscaini’s great passions came to the fore as we drank his excellent 2003 Amarone Costasera (Rating: 18.5/20 full tasting note available below).
Boscaini reminded us of Masi’s 1964 innovation in producing its Campofiorin, essentially a Valpolicella Ripasso produced with the skins of already fermented Amarone grapes (the same three grapes that make up Valpolicella: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara). What we didn’t know about was the development in the mid-1980s when Masi began to use semi-dried grapes in the Campofiorin. Thus Campofiorin became more of a wine based on appassimento (grape-drying) than ripasso as such and with annual sales of 3 million bottles, the quality-price ratio (still favourable to consumers) speaks for itself. Semi-dried grapes are also used in the production of the white Masicanco (with dried Pinot Grigio grapes blended with Verduzzo).
Whilst it is great to have such reliable Amarone in China, we asked Dr. Boscaini why there was not more Recioto, especially Recioto della Valpolicella, mentioning that this wine would appeal to Chinese tasters. This precipitated a discussion about the fate of Recioto della Valpolicella and the confusion that has existed since regulations insisted on the combination of Recioto della Valpolicella and Recioto della Valpolicella Amarone as categories.
Dr. Boscaini felt that the wine should simply be called Amarone and be dry in style, thereby differentiating it easily from Recioto della Valpolicella. Masi actually makes four different Amarone wines (Costasera, Mazzano, Campolongo di Torbe, Vaio Armaron) and three different Recioto wines from Corvina et al. (Mezzanella Amandorlato, Casal dei Ronchi, Amabile Degli Angeli). The company distinguishes between these carefully in promotional material and on their website.
We also asked about the role of botrytis in Amarone, learning that it is only the relatively thinner-skinned Corvina that tends to attract noble rot. Dr. Boscaini pointed out that levels of decent quality botrytis are acceptable and even desirable; and that the real problem can be the development of mould on drying tables during appassimento (Masi has developed techniques to minimize this problem). Control of tannins in both the Amarones and Recioto wines has also been an issue right from 1964 when the Amarone skins were first used in making Campofiorin.
The fate of Bardolino was also lamented, a wine that became a bit of a joke when awarded DOCG status when it was clearly not in the same league as Barolo and Barbaresco, for example. Dr. Boscaini is proud of the Masi Bardolino and hopes the wine can be rehabilitated both in the region and internationally. It’s another red wine we feel Chinese consumers would like.
All in all, Boscaini said that, for him, there are three flagship Masi wines: the Campofiorin, the Masianco and the Amarone Costasera. What impressed us is the comprehensiveness of the Masi range. Purists may find Amarone or Soave producers they prefer, but Masi really does keep high standards across a broad spectrum of wines.
2003 Amarone Costasera, Masi
Appearance: deep red colour with orange rim
Nose: warm intense red-cherry nose with some marzipan and sweet-smelling spices (cinnamon, cardamom).
Palate: palate is very elegant with fine acidity, great concentration of fruit, very mellow low chewy tannins and very good length. At 15% alcohol this wine does not actually seem alcoholic, largely because the wine-making is so good.
Conclusion: lovely Amarone and an inspiring expression of the style.
Rating: 18.5/20
Dr. Boscaini mentioned that he had come to China on several occasions and had once even transported a gondola to Beijing to display in the Kempinksi Hotel! On this visit, he was happy to talk to journalists about the slowly improving China fine wine market and share his thoughts for the future.
In effect, Masi wants to embrace the new fine wine culture - which is little different, on Boscaini's view, from the worlds of fashion or other consumable designer products - whilst keeping a keen eye on the company’s traditions and innovations. The desire to be ‘glocal’, both global and local was voiced. But Boscaini is hardly satisfied with marketing-speak alone. Conversation soon moved to Veneto wines and the Masi range; and Boscaini’s great passions came to the fore as we drank his excellent 2003 Amarone Costasera (Rating: 18.5/20 full tasting note available below).
Boscaini reminded us of Masi’s 1964 innovation in producing its Campofiorin, essentially a Valpolicella Ripasso produced with the skins of already fermented Amarone grapes (the same three grapes that make up Valpolicella: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara). What we didn’t know about was the development in the mid-1980s when Masi began to use semi-dried grapes in the Campofiorin. Thus Campofiorin became more of a wine based on appassimento (grape-drying) than ripasso as such and with annual sales of 3 million bottles, the quality-price ratio (still favourable to consumers) speaks for itself. Semi-dried grapes are also used in the production of the white Masicanco (with dried Pinot Grigio grapes blended with Verduzzo).
Whilst it is great to have such reliable Amarone in China, we asked Dr. Boscaini why there was not more Recioto, especially Recioto della Valpolicella, mentioning that this wine would appeal to Chinese tasters. This precipitated a discussion about the fate of Recioto della Valpolicella and the confusion that has existed since regulations insisted on the combination of Recioto della Valpolicella and Recioto della Valpolicella Amarone as categories.
Dr. Boscaini felt that the wine should simply be called Amarone and be dry in style, thereby differentiating it easily from Recioto della Valpolicella. Masi actually makes four different Amarone wines (Costasera, Mazzano, Campolongo di Torbe, Vaio Armaron) and three different Recioto wines from Corvina et al. (Mezzanella Amandorlato, Casal dei Ronchi, Amabile Degli Angeli). The company distinguishes between these carefully in promotional material and on their website.
We also asked about the role of botrytis in Amarone, learning that it is only the relatively thinner-skinned Corvina that tends to attract noble rot. Dr. Boscaini pointed out that levels of decent quality botrytis are acceptable and even desirable; and that the real problem can be the development of mould on drying tables during appassimento (Masi has developed techniques to minimize this problem). Control of tannins in both the Amarones and Recioto wines has also been an issue right from 1964 when the Amarone skins were first used in making Campofiorin.
The fate of Bardolino was also lamented, a wine that became a bit of a joke when awarded DOCG status when it was clearly not in the same league as Barolo and Barbaresco, for example. Dr. Boscaini is proud of the Masi Bardolino and hopes the wine can be rehabilitated both in the region and internationally. It’s another red wine we feel Chinese consumers would like.
All in all, Boscaini said that, for him, there are three flagship Masi wines: the Campofiorin, the Masianco and the Amarone Costasera. What impressed us is the comprehensiveness of the Masi range. Purists may find Amarone or Soave producers they prefer, but Masi really does keep high standards across a broad spectrum of wines.
2003 Amarone Costasera, Masi
Appearance: deep red colour with orange rim
Nose: warm intense red-cherry nose with some marzipan and sweet-smelling spices (cinnamon, cardamom).
Palate: palate is very elegant with fine acidity, great concentration of fruit, very mellow low chewy tannins and very good length. At 15% alcohol this wine does not actually seem alcoholic, largely because the wine-making is so good.
Conclusion: lovely Amarone and an inspiring expression of the style.
Rating: 18.5/20
Labels: Amarone, appassimento, ASC, Campofiorin, Dr Sandro Boscaini, Interviews, Italy, Masi, red, ripasso, Veneto, white
posted by Wine Dragon
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