Featured Tasting: Mischief & Mayhem 2005 White Burgundies
Featured Tasting: Mischief & Mayhem 2005 White Burgundies

We have to delcare an interest here in that Edward's brother, Michael Ragg, is co-partner of Mischief & Mayhem, the Burgundian negociant-eleveur based in Aloxe-Corton (which he runs with Michael Twelftree of Barossa-based Two Hands Wines).

But we are not alone in thinking the quality of the wines here is very high. Wine Spectator has awarded repeated high scores in their blind-tastings and quality is set to improve even further, as Bruce Sanderson reported on his recent visit.

In July 2007 we tasted a range of both the white and red 2005s at the property. Here are our notes on the whites:

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chablis

Appearance: lightish green gold.

Nose: beautiful mineral nose, light lemon and even green apple fruit here too.

Palate: lovely citrus fruit with more mineral notes (wet stones), excellent acidity and impressive length.

Conclusion: this wine is actually 1er Cru Côte de Léchet, but the decision was to deliver a really good Chablis at a decent price in order to establish something reliable as a new addition to the range (rather than price it at Chablis 1er Cru level). This is very good and should improve in bottle very well.

Rating: 17.5/20 [but will improve]

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chardonnay

Appearance: medium yellow colour.

Nose: lemon fruit with mineral notes, slight oak, fresh, slightly nutty.

Palate: lovely lemon fruit with some well-balanced acidity (even for Chardonnay). Good length.

Conclusion: A very good Bourgogne Blanc.

Rating: 17/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

Appearance: medium green gold.

Nose: intense green apple and lemon fruit, mineral, savoury, concentrated nose.

Palate: marked but integrated high acid, lovely fruit, more mineral flavours, but with a rounded feel too. Intense and full-flavoured.

Conclusion: very promising Grand Cru Chablis with a considerable life ahead of it, if highly drinkable now.

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Meursault

Appearance: deepish yellow.

Nose: very attractive lemon and melon fruit (not too lush) with nicely balanced toasty oak.

Palate: good acidity and soft citrus fruits with a creamy note. Excellent length.

Conclusion: Very good Meursault and should develop very well in bottle.

Rating: 17.5/20 [although another bottle warrants 18/20]

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet

Appearance: pleasant medium gold-green colour.

Nose: strong lemon fruit, hazelnut, minerality (stones). Very attractive integrated nose.

Palate: palate has good concentration and a bit more zip than the Meursault – Puligny’s trademark acidity and minerality coming through – although the fruit is bigger here than in Pulignys from other vintages (2005’s plushness to the fore). Good length and very good all around.

Conclusion: Lovely village Puligny. Will improve well in bottle.

Rating: 18/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains

Appearance: attractive medium gold-green colour.

Nose: toasty oak first nose, also featuring lemon and hazlenuts (as on the village Puligny). Young, complex.

Palate: fruit has soft feel at first on palate, but then the acidity comes through so the mouth-feel is supple, simultaneously lean and rich. Very long.

Conclusion: This is possibly more complex than the village Puligny, but I love the blend of the latter. At this stage, I would rate both wines similarly in qualitative terms, but it will be really interesting to see how they develop. Very good.

Rating: 18/20 [could be 18.5/20 or higher]

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