We have to delcare an interest here in that Edward's brother, Michael Ragg, is co-partner of Mischief & Mayhem, the Burgundian negociant-eleveur based in Aloxe-Corton (which he runs with Michael Twelftree of Barossa-based Two Hands Wines).
But we are not alone in thinking the quality of the wines here is very high. Wine Spectator has awarded repeated high scores in their blind-tastings and quality is set to improve even further, as Bruce Sanderson reported on his recent visit.
In July 2007 we tasted a range of both the white and red 2005s at the property. Here are our notes on the whites:
2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chablis
Appearance: lightish green gold.
Nose: beautiful mineral nose, light lemon and even green apple fruit here too.
Palate: lovely citrus fruit with more mineral notes (wet stones), excellent acidity and impressive length.
Conclusion: this wine is actually 1er Cru Côte de Léchet, but the decision was to deliver a really good Chablis at a decent price in order to establish something reliable as a new addition to the range (rather than price it at Chablis 1er Cru level). This is very good and should improve in bottle very well.
Rating: 17.5/20 [but will improve]
2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chardonnay
Appearance: medium yellow colour.
Nose: lemon fruit with mineral notes, slight oak, fresh, slightly nutty.
Palate: lovely lemon fruit with some well-balanced acidity (even for Chardonnay). Good length.
Conclusion: A very good Bourgogne Blanc.
Rating: 17/20
2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
Appearance: medium green gold.
Nose: intense green apple and lemon fruit, mineral, savoury, concentrated nose.
Palate: marked but integrated high acid, lovely fruit, more mineral flavours, but with a rounded feel too. Intense and full-flavoured.
Conclusion: very promising Grand Cru Chablis with a considerable life ahead of it, if highly drinkable now.
Rating: 18.5/20
2005 Mischief & Mayhem Meursault
Appearance: deepish yellow.
Nose: very attractive lemon and melon fruit (not too lush) with nicely balanced toasty oak.
Palate: good acidity and soft citrus fruits with a creamy note. Excellent length.
Conclusion: Very good Meursault and should develop very well in bottle.
Rating: 17.5/20 [although another bottle warrants 18/20]
2005 Mischief & Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet
Appearance: pleasant medium gold-green colour.
Nose: strong lemon fruit, hazelnut, minerality (stones). Very attractive integrated nose.
Palate: palate has good concentration and a bit more zip than the Meursault – Puligny’s trademark acidity and minerality coming through – although the fruit is bigger here than in Pulignys from other vintages (2005’s plushness to the fore). Good length and very good all around.
Conclusion: Lovely village Puligny. Will improve well in bottle.
Rating: 18/20
2005 Mischief & Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains
Appearance: attractive medium gold-green colour.
Nose: toasty oak first nose, also featuring lemon and hazlenuts (as on the village Puligny). Young, complex.
Palate: fruit has soft feel at first on palate, but then the acidity comes through so the mouth-feel is supple, simultaneously lean and rich. Very long.
Conclusion: This is possibly more complex than the village Puligny, but I love the blend of the latter. At this stage, I would rate both wines similarly in qualitative terms, but it will be really interesting to see how they develop. Very good.
Rating: 18/20 [could be 18.5/20 or higher]
Labels: Burgundy, Chablis, Chardonnay, Featured Tastings, France, Meursault, Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet, Two Hands Wines, white, Wine Spectator

