1990 Château Léoville Barton, Saint-Julien
1990 Château Léoville Barton, Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

Appearance: red purple, orange brick rim.

Nose: 'indescribable' was the first note, but the wine had everything on the nose that could be associated with sophisticated red Bordeaux, particularly from the Medoc: cassis, blackcurrants, pencil shavings, tobacco, spices (derived probably from aged French oak rather than the blend of grapes), beautiful oak. Amazing.

Palate: medium softened tannins, astonishing length, good acidity, medium-high alcohol, power and poise (maybe the alcohol seems higher than 12.5% because you are bombarded with so much sensation in approaching this wine - although labelling laws allow some latitude).

Conclusion: this was the first time we’d tried Léoville Barton and could easily see why just about every significant wine writer or journalist points to Léoville (and Langoa) Barton as a source of fairly priced fantastic claret: Michael Broadbent, Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson, Clive Coates, Andrew Jefford, Charles Metcalfe, Robert Joseph etc. If other bottles of the 1990 are like this they can be enjoyed now and for the next decade. Amazing.

Rating: 19/20

1986 Château Léoville Barton, Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

Appearance: red purple, some fading of the rim but still strong in colour (actually darker than the bottle of the 1990).

Nose: a little closed at first, dusty and requiring a good deal of aeration in the glass, but it showed through with strong cassis, maturing French oak (though by no means mature), spice and a general stylistic similarity to the 1990, although with less obvious fruit (and it was very different in weight and structure on the palate).

Palate: more tannic than the 1990, big structure, good acid, robust, chewy and showing potential for further ageing (apparently a lot of 1986s are like this). Very, very long.

Conclusion: utterly brilliant but requiring more time. In all honesty – although we've tasted red Bordeaux of this ilk and quality before – it takes a little getting used to the idea that this wine will mature for another 20 years or longer.

Rating: 18.5/20 [could be higher with time]

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