The Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux held their annual grand tasting in Beijing, the last in a leg of an Asia-wide tour also comprising Tokyo (22nd Nov), Osaka (24th Nov), Seoul (26th Nov), Shanghai (28th Nov) and Guangzhou (29th Nov).
Many chateaux owners were then going on to Singapore and India, en route back to France. Several commented that the turn-out at Beijing’s Sofitel Hotel was better than in previous years; and were happy both with the volume here as well as in Shanghai and Guangzhou in particular. We spoke with several owners about their perceptions of the China and wider Asia markets and although no single property has obvious ‘brand’ recognition within China – apart, perhaps, from Château Lafite – they were cautiously optimistic about the future in Beijing and further a field.
This year the UGC showcased the 2004 vintage, still under-appreciated and under-valued, at least alongside 2000 and 2005. The hype surrounding 2003 may still exist, but most people should recognize the vintage had atypical weather conditions that resulted in some strange wines from some quarters as well as over-activity in the market. Recall 1997: different weather conditions, but similar hype. The 1997s drunk much sooner than some expected; clearly a different vintage from the likes of 1995 and 1996.
With so many wines to taste, the notes we offer here are condensed, beginning with dry whites (Part I), then the sweeter ones (Part II) - the Sauternes and Barsac wines were particularly strong - followed by reds from the various appellations (Part III).
2004 Domaine de Chevalier (Blanc), Péssac-Leognan
Appearance: medium green gold.
Nose: attractive nose with marked Sauvignon notes – here slightly aromatic and peachy (not the clone that is used in Sancerre or for other Sauvignons in the Loire Valley) – but with lemon and slight wax coming through from the Semillon. Good use of oak.
Palate: integrated fruit, fresh acidity, good length and pleasant oak. Not heavy. Elegant.
Conclusion: decent white Pessac, this wine is 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon and spends 18 months in oak (a third of which is new). Very good.
Rating: 18.5/20
2004 Château La Louvière (Blanc), Pessac-Léognan
Appearance: medium green gold.
Nose: lovely oak which is currently predominant backed by citrus (the fruit should come out later).
Palate: very balanced, considerable toasty oak, but the fruit is there with very good acidity.
Conclusion: this wine is 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Semillon and is a lovely example of dry white Bordeaux.
Rating: 18.5/20
2004 Château Malartic-Lagravière (Blanc), Pessac-Léognan
Appearance: lightish green-gold.
Nose: made in a light savoury style with some green notes but also peach from the Sauvignon Blanc. Oak is non-intrusive.
Palate: good acidity, with light apple and peach fruit. Quite good length.
Conclusion: a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, this much more of an aperitif dry white Bordeaux than a so-called ‘first course wine’, but some may like the light style and the fact the oaking is on the light side here too.
Rating: 17/20
2004 Château Olivier (Blanc), Pessac-Léognan
Appearance: medium green-gold.
Nose: nice intensity of lemon fruit here with good oak and even some minerality.
Palate: good fruit, nice acidity and good length. Oak is balanced.
Conclusion: this spends 10 months in oak (of which 20% is new) and is well put together. Should age well too.
Rating: 17.5/20
Many chateaux owners were then going on to Singapore and India, en route back to France. Several commented that the turn-out at Beijing’s Sofitel Hotel was better than in previous years; and were happy both with the volume here as well as in Shanghai and Guangzhou in particular. We spoke with several owners about their perceptions of the China and wider Asia markets and although no single property has obvious ‘brand’ recognition within China – apart, perhaps, from Château Lafite – they were cautiously optimistic about the future in Beijing and further a field.
This year the UGC showcased the 2004 vintage, still under-appreciated and under-valued, at least alongside 2000 and 2005. The hype surrounding 2003 may still exist, but most people should recognize the vintage had atypical weather conditions that resulted in some strange wines from some quarters as well as over-activity in the market. Recall 1997: different weather conditions, but similar hype. The 1997s drunk much sooner than some expected; clearly a different vintage from the likes of 1995 and 1996.
With so many wines to taste, the notes we offer here are condensed, beginning with dry whites (Part I), then the sweeter ones (Part II) - the Sauternes and Barsac wines were particularly strong - followed by reds from the various appellations (Part III).
2004 Domaine de Chevalier (Blanc), Péssac-Leognan
Appearance: medium green gold.
Nose: attractive nose with marked Sauvignon notes – here slightly aromatic and peachy (not the clone that is used in Sancerre or for other Sauvignons in the Loire Valley) – but with lemon and slight wax coming through from the Semillon. Good use of oak.
Palate: integrated fruit, fresh acidity, good length and pleasant oak. Not heavy. Elegant.
Conclusion: decent white Pessac, this wine is 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon and spends 18 months in oak (a third of which is new). Very good.
Rating: 18.5/20
2004 Château La Louvière (Blanc), Pessac-Léognan
Appearance: medium green gold.
Nose: lovely oak which is currently predominant backed by citrus (the fruit should come out later).
Palate: very balanced, considerable toasty oak, but the fruit is there with very good acidity.
Conclusion: this wine is 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Semillon and is a lovely example of dry white Bordeaux.
Rating: 18.5/20
2004 Château Malartic-Lagravière (Blanc), Pessac-Léognan
Appearance: lightish green-gold.
Nose: made in a light savoury style with some green notes but also peach from the Sauvignon Blanc. Oak is non-intrusive.
Palate: good acidity, with light apple and peach fruit. Quite good length.
Conclusion: a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, this much more of an aperitif dry white Bordeaux than a so-called ‘first course wine’, but some may like the light style and the fact the oaking is on the light side here too.
Rating: 17/20
2004 Château Olivier (Blanc), Pessac-Léognan
Appearance: medium green-gold.
Nose: nice intensity of lemon fruit here with good oak and even some minerality.
Palate: good fruit, nice acidity and good length. Oak is balanced.
Conclusion: this spends 10 months in oak (of which 20% is new) and is well put together. Should age well too.
Rating: 17.5/20
Labels: 2004, Bordeaux, Domaine de Chevalier, Featured Tastings, France, La Louviere, Malartic-Lagraviere, Olivier, Pessac-Leognan, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux, white
posted by Wine Phoenix
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