4th March 2008

Jebsen Fine Wines had organized a special tasting held at the newly opened Ritz Carlton Hotel in Beijing’s Chaoyang District - the second Ritz Carlton in the city, in fact, the other being on Financial Street - of the wines of Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, the great Tuscan producer based in Bolgheri and responsible for the legendary Ornellaia.

On tasting were:

2005 Le Volte, Toscana IGT

Appearance: medium red-purple, slight orange rim.

Nose: bright red cherry fruit, possible unoaked (on first nose). Certainly no evidence of new oak treatment.

Palate: nice acidity here, soft red fruits, low-medium silky tannins. Nice length.

Conclusion: this wine is a blend of Sangiovese 50%, Merlot 30% and Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, vinified separately with the blended wine then being aged in 2-4 year old barrels for some 10 months. In other words, not much oak flavour is imparted, if any, as desired. We expected a bit more structure to come through from the Cabernet Sauvignon, but it’s clearly well-made. Drink now or over the next couple of years. Retail RMB255.

Rating: 16/20

2002 Le Serre Nuove Bolgheri DOC

Appearance: medium purple with red tints, slight orange rim.

Nose: bright red and black fruits, noticeable oak, savoury and relatively complex for the vintage.
Palate: nice acidity again here (as you’d expect), angular medium-high chewy tannins, but only medium-bodied throughout. Nice length too.

Conclusion: 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, this wine’s malolactic fermentation began in stainless steel but was finished in barrique (25% new oak, the remaining 75% in once-used barrels). It was then aged in barrique for some 18 months. It’s impressive they were able to produce such a nice wine in the rain-prone 2002 vintage, a bit of a wash-out in Tuscany. Strict selection would have had to be necessary. We preferred this to the Le Volte 2005, however. Jebsen currently offers other vintages of the Le Serre Nuove (2004 and 2005) for RMB616 and RMB633. We’d hope the 2002 is cheaper, if they still have it.

Rating: 17/20

2005 Ornellaia (1985-2005 anniversary bottle)

Appearance: dark purple-red.

Nose: very elegant nose of myriad red and black fruits, toasty oak prevalent at present as well.

Palate: medium-high chunky tannins, lovely acidity, complex fruits gradually revealing themselves. Long.

Conclusion: this must be a special blend for the occasion, as we couldn’t find anything on the Ornellaia website about the constituents or vinification of the 2005. This wine has some of the restraint and elegance of fine Pomerol or other Right Bank Bordeaux, but with more vibrant acidity. Will age for many years, but is approachable now. Retail RMB1915.

Rating: 18/20 [but should get better]

1995 Ornellaia

Appearance: medium red, marked orange rim.

Nose: fading red and black fruits, leaves, decaying oak and other complex savoury smells (mushrooms etc.).

Palate: complex palate which is more youthful than the nose suggests, lovely acidity and great length. Tannins have precipitated out and it’s very smooth and very appealing!

Conclusion: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, this wine was aged for about 16 months in French oak barriques (39% new, 61% once-used), bottled without filtration and matured a further 14 months before release. It’s clearly fine wine and drinking well now. We cannot put a retail price on this wine for the Chinese market, however. The cheapest we’ve seen it on Wine Searcher is around £55 (UK pounds) or $100 (USD). It is likely to be much more expensive in China, if it is available at all.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 1995, 2002, 2005, Bolgheri, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Featured Tastings, Italy, Jebsen, Le Serre Nuove, Le Volte, Merlot, Ornellaia, red, Sangiovese, Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Tuscany

A grand tasting of the various properties owned by the Antinori family organized by Summergate and hosted by the Italian Ambassador, Mrs Riccardo Sessa and Alessia Antinori. Wines were available from Umbria and Tuscany (the original Antinori home) as well as Piemonte (Prunotto) and Puglia (Tormaresca), both also under Antinori control.

The tasting itself was held in the Italian Embassy and drew a good crowd of invited guests from the diplomatic, journalistic, F&B and wine trade worlds. The majority of the wines were red with only three whites on show. We offer our notes here of those three whites together with the rest of the selections from Umbria and Tuscany. A further post will contain the wines from Piemonte and the Puglian reds.

2005 Castello della Sala ‘Campogrande’ Orvieto Classico, Umbria

Appearance: pale green with yellow tints.

Nose: largely light apple fruit.

Palate: apple fruit, pleasant acidity, light-bodied, not bad length.

Conclusion: made from 40% Procanico, 40% Grechetto, 15% Verdello, 5% Drupeggio and Malvasia, this is a crisp, food-friendly white for everyday drinking and affordable at 135RMB.

Rating: 15.5/20

2005 Castello della Sala ‘Bramito del Cervo’ Chardonnay, Umbria IGT

Appearance: medium gold.

Nose: peach and melon fruit, pleasant oak.

Palate: good fruit, some acidity here; good oak and quite good length.

Conclusion: after maceration, the must for this wine is exposed to French Allier and Troncais barriques to undergo alcoholic fermentation; but only a proportion of the wine receives malolactic fermentation in wood. This may account for the lifting acidity here. Quite well put together. Price 299RMB.

Rating: 16/20

2004 Tormaresca ‘Pietra Bianca’ Castel del Monte Chardonnay, Puglia

Appearance: medium yellow-gold.

Nose: appealing citrus and peach fruit, good oak.

Palate: pleasant acidity, strong fruit, deft use of oak and well-balanced.

Conclusion: this was probably the best white of the three on show. Well-made Chardonnay with an impressive balance of ripe fruit – no trouble ripening Chardonnay in Puglia – and good acidity (probably the element that is harder to achieve). This wine retails at 347RMB.

Rating: 16.5/20

2004 La Braccesca ‘Sabazio’ Rosso di Montepulciano DOC, Tuscany

Appearance: light to medium red-purple, clear rim.

Nose: appealing light red fruits (red cherry, redcurrant).

Palate: more pleasant red fruits, medium-bodied, good acidity, light on tannin.

Conclusion: this wine is a blend of 80% Prugnolo Gentile, 15% Merlot and 5% Canaiolo (NB Montepulciano grapes are not used to make this wine, nor are they used for Vino Nobile di Montelpulciano – if you want to drink Montepulciano, try Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from the Marches region). It only spends about 4 months in oak which might account for why we didn’t notice any oak here at first. Priced at 191RMB, this is an easy-drinking, food-friendly Italian red for more or less immediate consumption.

Rating: 16/20

2001 La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, Tuscany

Appearance: deep purple colour with slightly orange rim.

Nose: dark black and red cherry fruit, ‘tart’ nose, discernible oak but this is well-integrated.

Palate: lovely tannins here (moderate and spiky in nature), fine acidity, pleasant dark cherry fruit and good length.

Conclusion: this wine is aged in different sizes of oak barrel for 12 months (with a proportion in barriques). It’s lovely stuff. 347RMB from Summergate.

Rating: 17.5/20

2001 ‘Marchese Antinori’ Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, Tuscany

Appearance: dark purple, slightly orange rim.

Nose: marked black cherry fruit, savoury oak, slight spice, complex.

Palate: medium-high chewy tannins, lovely acidity, strong fruit, good oak and very good length.

Conclusion: a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter adding some richness and slightly darker fruit whilst the former dominates with its strong cherry quality. The oak in question is new, one-year and two-year old Alliers and Troncais French oak and the wine spends some 14 months in oak after blending. 450RMB and clearly very good.

Rating: 18/20 [but could be higher with time]

2001 ‘Pian delle Vigne’ Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany

Appearance: medium purple-red, slight orange rim.

Nose: complex red and black cherry fruit, some oak, savoury but with sweet fruits, complex.

Palate: very elegant with lovely closely knit but ripe medium-high tannins and beautiful Sangiovese fruit. Very balanced. Great length.

Conclusion: entirely Sangiovese, the wine spends some two years in a range of different sized oak vats and is also aged for a further year in bottle before release. This is clearly a very high quality Sangiovese (744RMB).

Rating: 18.5/20

Notes on the wines of Prunotto and the other Tormaresca reds to follow.

Labels: 2001, 2004, 2005, Antinori, Brunello di Montalcino, Chardonnay, Chianti, Featured Tastings, Italy, Montepulciano, Orvieto, Piemonte, Puglia, red, Sangiovese, Summergate, Tuscany, Umbria, white

Gaia Gaja of famed Piemonte producer Angelo Gaja came to Beijing for a book-signing (at the Hilton Food & Wine Experience) and a special dinner arranged with importer ASC. She kindly consented to an email interview arranged around her busy schedule. Dragon Phoenix (hereafter DP) is very grateful to Gaia Gaja (hereafter GG) for her time and effort. With luck, she will be back in China in 2008.

DP: You recently visited Beijing to show-case your wines. What is your perception of the market for fine wines in China?

GG: The Chinese market is certainly one of the future, as China is a factor in all things: because of its growth and the increasing acquisition of wealth. Fine wine will undoubtedly be part of this expansion.

DP: How would you say Piemonte wines specifically are appreciated in China? Or is it too early for the market to understand the complexity of the Piemonte region?

GG: I believe our wines are accepted equally in China; just as all other fine wines in the world are. Their complexity is an added value which, with time, will be more and more appreciated.

DP: Your company has a number of business interests: including Gaja distribution, the Castello di Barbaresco as well as wine estates not just in Piemonte but also in Tuscany. How would you say your business experience has helped in establishing new markets for your wines in China and Asia as a whole?

GG: My mother has a little distribution company importing foreign wines to Italy (this is a business that concerns Italy alone). As to the Castello di Barbaresco, you are talking about the castle of Barbaresco which we bought in 1995 and restored. We were thinking of transforming it into a hotel but, in the end, we decided to keep it for the winery – so now there are offices and tasting rooms. So, we just make wine really. This is the only thing we know how to do and we will continue doing it just so.

We produce wine in Piemonte, in Montacino and in Bolgheri, as you know. The three wineries are working with different varieties: Nebbiolo, Sangiovese (in Montalcino), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (in Bolgheri). The three regions – what we call the ‘3 Bs’ of Italy, Barbaresco (and Barolo), Brunello and Bolgheri – are, in my opinion, the most prestigious in Italy. They provide the opportunity and real possibility of making long-ageing and complex wines. So, we have the same goal for the three wineries and the same style, but different expressions. The Chinese market can see the distinctive differences between these three wine regions with the distinctive Gaja flare in each case.

DP: Your family’s wine-making roots in Barbaresco date back to 1859 and Giovanni Gaja’s establishment of the winery. You have embraced both tradition and modern technology in your wine-making. How would you describe your company’s philosophy and outlook?

GG: My wines are easy recognizable in blind-tastings because they have a defined style that is obviously the style of our Barbaresco winery. The goal is to produce wines loyal to the area, and loyal to the history of the winery itself. To preserve their identity and dignity, we release them only in vintages when the weather conditions have allowed them to express all their beauties and to illustrate what Nebbiolo in Barbaresco can do.

The wines are, therefore, not produced every year. For example, our Piemonte winery did not produce any wine in 2002,1992,1984,1980 and 1972. The single vineyard wines (Costa Russi, Sori San Lorenzo, Sori Tildin, Sperss, Conteisa) were not even produced in 1994,1992 and in many other older vintages. Pieve Santa Restituta did not produce any wine in 2002 and in 2003; and Camarcanda was not produced in 2002 either.

To work like artisans, following every detail from the beginning to the end: this is our philosophy. We do not buy in grapes but only use what we produce from our estate vineyards which have been selected over several generations. We also personally select the wood for part of the barriques we use, and we are working on several other details in the winery too.

DP: Piemonte wines are very food-friendly. Do you believe your wines will pair well with different Chinese cuisines?

GG: I don’t know enough about Chinese food, but I had the pleasure to pair several of our wines with different Shanghai-ese dishes (which were more oily and generally sweeter to the taste than some of the other Chinese regional cuisines I’ve heard of). They paired extremely well.

DP: Angelo Gaja was the first wine-maker to use French barriques and introduce international grape varieties to the Langhe. How would you describe the difference between your ‘international’ wines and your Barbaresco DOCG or is there no difference in your wine-making philosophy for these wines?

GG: Even the international varieties that my father introduced and started to produce in Barbaresco (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay) are producing wines (Darmagi, Alteni di Brassica and Gaia & Rey) that are very Piedmontese in their personality. The grape varieties are a vehicle to express the flavours of the place where they are grown. Piemonte wines reflect minerality, earthiness, and can have fabulous ageing potential where the aromas develop exquisitely. All of these characteristics are expressed in the Darmagi, Gaia & Rey and Alteni di Brassica wines.

DP: Some of your top Barbaresco wines – Sori Tildin, San Lorenzo, Costa Russi – and the Barolos, Sperss and Conteisa, are ‘de-classified’ to Langhe Nebbiolo DOC because this allows you to add up to 15% of other grapes. Do you find that blending helps tame some of the more difficult aspects of Nebbiolo, e.g. its sometimes harsh tannins? Or is there another reason for blending?

GG: My winery has produced Barbaresco since 1859. And this is why Barbaresco is the most representative wine from our winery. The single vineyard concept was introduced in the late 1960s (in 1967 we produced the first single vineyard Barbaresco: Sori San Lorenzo). Clearly, Gaja became well-known through this Barbaresco, the only wine of the winery for generations; and the reason behind the re-classification of the single vineyards was to go back to Barbaresco as the only Barbaresco of the winery.

When we changed the denomination for the single vineyards, we discovered the advantage of being able to add, if we wanted, other varieties. The variety we are most interested in adding (and from 1997 did so) is Barbera: a local variety with very good acidity, excellent fruit and not too much tannin. In warm vintages Barbera is useful because it gives the wine a certain drinkability whilst also aiding ageing-potential. It works very well with Nebbiolo.

DP: Do you think it is easier for consumers to understand international grapes – for example, you make straight a straight Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Sauvignon Blanc – than the complexities of Italy’s DOC and DOCG system? Or is the Piemonte region itself of more importance to you and your customers?

GG: I think that one important reason why the international varieties are more understandable is that they are more well-known than the DOCs or DOCGs. So people are more used to drinking them and knowing what to expect from them. These varieties are like an international language that everyone can, on some level, speak and understand.

In Italy we have such a large selection of local varieties, all produced in such tiny quantities and areas, that it becomes very difficult to know them well. They are very much niche products. The international varieties give the chance to wine lovers to compare the results of certain grapes coming from different wineries and from different parts of the world.

DP: Nicholas Belfrage MW has written about your pricing policy, observing that this ‘seems to be paying off handsomely, with international buyers willing to spend any sum for a top name’ (Barolo to Valpolicella: The Wines of Northern Italy, p. 86). Belfrage does not dispute the very high quality of your wines, but wonders about global prices in the fine wine market. Do you think that buyers will continue to pay ‘any sum’ for top wines?

GG: The markets are undeniably growing and the new increasing demand cannot be absorbed by the offer of certain wines alone (as some wines cannot be produced in sufficient quantities to meet the demand). At the same time the production of wine is growing all over the world as well as the quality level (more countries are producing wines of better quality). So, for sure, in the case of certain top wines the prices will inevitably continue to grow. Fortunately, though, there will also be a good offer of wines at more moderate prices.

DP: In China, wine education should improve the market for fine wines as consumers become more confident in purchasing. How do you hope to support the appreciation of your wines in the Chinese market(s)?

GG: I like to explain my wines personally (and be there to explain them in person). I like to meet the people that drink and talk about my wines; and to hear their questions. This is one of the pleasures of my work. I will continue to come to China, maybe more often than I have in the past, and continue to explain what my wines mean to me to the people I will have the pleasure to meet. This is central to my life and work.

Labels: Angelo Gaja, ASC, Barolo, Bolgheri, Brunello di Montalcino, Cabernet Sauvignon, China, Gaia Gaja, Interviews, Italy, Langhe, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Nicholas Belfrage, Piemonte, red, white

2005 Il Nero di Casanova, La Spinetta, Italy

Appearance: medium red-purple, clear rim.

Nose: largely red and black cherry with some almond notes and slight clove.

Palate: medium-bodied, pleasant cherry fruit, refreshing medium-high acidity and medium chunky tannins. Quite good length.

Conclusion: La Spinetta is well-known as a producer of top Piemonte wines (having two properties in the region). However, the company also owns a property in Tuscany in the village of Terricciola. This Tuscan IGT was first made in 2004 and is predominantly Sangiovese with some Colorino thrown in (a grape indigenous to Tuscany that, as its name suggests, apparently does add colour). Easy-drinking, well-made and a very food-friendly Tuscan red.

Rating: 17/20

Labels: 2005, Colorino, Il Nero di Casanova, Italy, La Spinetta, Piemonte, red, Sangiovese, Tuscany

1997 Barbaresco Vigneto Gallina, La Spinetta

Appearance: darkish purple-red, only slightly orange rim.

Nose: very complex mix of red and black fruits: red and black cherry, redcurrants, red and black plum. Perfume also evident here with slight tar smell (but not in the tarry league of some Barolo wines). There’s also that slight peppermint I’ve noticed on Nebbiolo before. Savoury oak and a wine that kept on developing in the glass.

Palate: intense fruit, chewy ripe and not too tightly knit tannins, superb balance of high acidity to oak to fruit to tannin. Very, very long.

Conclusion: this wine is still very young, but was not closed. It had wonderful fruit and amazing complexity. This is one of La Spinetta’s top wines and is capable of considerable ageing, particularly from the famed 1997 vintage. Superb.

Rating: 19/20

Labels: 1997, Barbaresco, Italy, La Spinetta, Nebbiolo, Piemonte, red

Before the Barolo Cerequio vertical, I interviewed Michele Chiarlo - see Interview: Michele Chiarlo brings Barolo to Beijing and Featured Tasting: Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio - and then tasted a number of other Chiarlo wines:

2006 Gavi, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: deepish green gold

Nose: lots of lemon, pear and apple fruit. Very clean on the nose.

Palate: lovely acidity, good fruit and refreshing length and finish.

Conclusion: a lovely expression of the Cortese grape and actually the most successful wine in Asia for the Chiarlo family. Good.

Rating: 17.5/20

2004 Barbaresco Asili, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: medium purple-red, slightly orange rim.

Nose: extremely perfumed and very delicate showing red fruits and slight spice.

Palate: lovely acidity, moderate slightly grainy tannins, good fruit, and very ‘refreshing’ (not something usually said about Nebbiolo).

Conclusion: Barbaresco, unfairly, is seen as playing second fiddle to Barolo, but its wines can show very pure examples of Nebbiolo in a delicate style. Asili is a single vineyard, but not one I’ve had before (most of the single vineyard examples I’ve had from the Produttori del Barbaresco).

Rating: 18/20

2003 Barbera d’Asti La Court, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: deepish purple-red colour, clear rim.

Nose: shows a lot of oak, even although the wine sees only 50% oak; but much would depend, of course, on what proportion of that is new oak and what happened in 2003 itself where very ripe fruit may have called for heftier oak. Has very attractive dark cherry fruit as well, however.

Palate: lots of alcohol here, but there’s good acidity, pleasant chewy tannins and impressive length.

Conclusion: obviously a very fine example of Barbera and a pleasure to drink now (with some modest ageing ability there too).

Rating: 18.5/20

1999 Barolo Riserva ‘Tortoniano’, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: deep purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: elegant red cherry and redcurrant fruit, violets.

Palate: not too tannic, ripe, possesses lovely acidity and the tannins that are there are grainy and also ripe. Good length.

Conclusion: A lovely expression of a readily drinkable Barolo; ready now, but one that will also improve.

Rating: 18/20

Labels: 2003, 2004, 2006, Barbaresco, Barbera, Barbera d'Asti, Barolo, Chiarlo, Cortese, Featured Tastings, Gavi, Italy, Michele Chiarlo, Nebbiolo, Piemonte, red, white

Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo, Vertical Tasting

Presenting his wines at Aria restaurant in a tasting organized by ASC, Michele Chiarlo revealed that the family owns some 6 hectares of the Cerequio vineyard or about 40% of the total (with the likes of Angelo Gaja, Roberto Voerzio and Aldo Conterno controlling the rest of the vineyard).

The yield is generally at 35 hl/ha. He affirmed the care taken in extracting the better tannins from Nebbiolo before the bitter tannins take over: something the grape can easily show in less carefully made examples. 33% of production is sold in Italy with the rest going overseas, principally to the US and UK.

2003 Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: deepish purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: Very ripe red cherry, some ‘heat’ from the alcohol here, but there are still Nebbiolo characters coming through with some tar aromas. Oak is not over-dominant and with most of these notes I’ve hardly talked about oak because it’s well-integrated and almost hidden as Nebbiolo takes over.

Palate: big fruit, tight and close but ripe tannins; has impressive acidity for such a difficult vintage, some almond character and also peppermint and clove.

Conclusion: a very good wine for such a demanding vintage. Sensibly, they did not de-leaf in this vintage knowing that the grapes hardly needed much exposure to the sun in the fierce 2003 heat. Good, but it will never be a great Barolo year, not even from this vineyard and this producer.

Rating: 17.5/20

2001 Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: Medium to medium-deep purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: toasty first nose, a lot more immediately perfumed than the 2003 with a gamey aroma and beautiful red fruits (cherry, redcurrants, even cranberry).

Palate: has ripe large grainy tannins, excellent acidity and considerable finesse. There’s a great balance here on the palate with delicacy, freshness and lovely length.

Conclusion: Very good. A lovely expression of Barolo in a fine year.

Rating: 18.5/20

2000 Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: Deep purple-red (deeper colour than the 2001 certainly), slightly orange rim.

Nose: More tar on the first nose than perfume. Lavish fruit: more black cherry here than the red fruits you’d normally expect from most Piemonte Nebbiolos (at least those that haven’t had a bit of Barbera added!).

Palate: tannins are ripe and chunky. Considerable black fruits, but there isn’t the staying power here of the 2001 and there’s a slight problem with the palate. It’s not that the wine is short in length: there’s a gap between the generosity of the nose and a palate that gives a little less.

Conclusion: the palate notes here sound overly critical; but I can see why Chiarlo himself has more time for his 2001. This won’t last as well as the 2001 and will be an attractive earlier drinker, still of impressive quality.

Rating: 18/20

1999 Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: Medium to medium-deep purple-red, orange rim (similar in colour to the 2001).

Nose: Very perfumed indeed – in that way that Nebbiolo at this level is indescribably perfumed, just like great Pinot Noir. Very concentrated ripe red fruits.

Palate: has the feel of ‘sweet’ fruit on the palate, excellent acidity and gripping, ‘angular’ tannins (whereas the tannins on the 2000 were chunky and chewy).

Conclusion: very, very good indeed and, along with the 1997 and 1990, probably my favourite (with the 2001 being a close contender).

Rating: 19/20

1998 Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: dark purple-red, orange rim (but orange rim is less extensive than that on the 1999).

Nose: has an immediate clove nose with tar, pepper and ripe cherry fruit.

Palate: tannins are chunky here and the palate is very much like the 2000 but with a better overall structure, i.e. the ripe cherry fruit is more integrated and there’s a better balance between fruit, tannin, acidity and alcohol.

Conclusion: very interesting to taste comparatively. Obviously similar to the 2000 in style, but better overall. Although the below rating is the same as the 2001, I think I prefer the 2001 to the 1998, at least in this tasting.

Rating: 18.5/20

1997 Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: Medium to dark purple-red (I know this sounds strange, but these wines are a real mix of colours and hues)

Nose: first nose has lots of violets, perfume and also rose petal. Throughout, there is the ‘sweet’, ripe red fruits of the 1999 vintage.

Palate: similar to the 1999 with ripe red fruits and perfume, but the tannins are bigger here. Excellent length.

Conclusion: the 1999 is more ‘delicate’ or lighter on the nose and palate than the 1997, but the 1997, with its relative burliness, might last longer. There are both wonderful vintages, however, and point-for-point, this and the 1990 were my top wines.

Rating: 19.5/20

1996 Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: dark purple core with a real spread of red to orange in the rim.

Nose: shows a very clove and tarry nose – like the 2000 and the 1998 – with concentrated, even closed, red and black cherry fruit.

Palate: fruit is riper and ‘sweeter’ on the palate than expected with very big, chunky tannins and good acidity.

Conclusion: this wine will need a lot of time. Could do 10-20 more years and may well be superb eventually.

Rating: 18.5/20 [but could be higher with further age]

1995 Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: deep purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: lots of peppermint, tar and perfume with a mixture of red and black cherry fruit.

Palate: has ‘dusty’ big fruit, hefty and chunky tannins, acidity that seems higher here than on other vintages (or is more noticeable).

Conclusion: obviously impressive, but not as conversation-stopping as some of the other wines. Still very good, however.

Rating: 18.5/20

1993 Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: deep purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: has a very ‘Christmas cake’ first nose with clove, cinnamon and candied fruit.

Palate: shows more peppermint on the palate with lovely red fruits, decent marked acidity and ripe ‘fresh’, i.e. light, tannins (no doubt mellowed with age).

Conclusion: Ready to drink, although will still improve. A lighter, attractive vintage.

Rating: 18/20

1990 Barolo Cerequio, Michele Chiarlo

Appearance: medium purple-red, orange rim (still has considerable colour but has a wider gradation of orange rim than the other wines)

Nose: white truffle nose – the first wine to have this truffle quality – also other mushrooms, red fruits and some perfume.

Palate: mellowed but still lean tannins with generous fruit, complex truffle flavours and great acidity.

Conclusion: this wine still needs time in my book. It’s obviously a massive vintage and it would certainly be better to drink the 1993 before this wine. Stupendous and extremely generous of Michele Chiarlo to bring this over from his personal cellar.

Rating: 19.5/20

Labels: 1990, 1993, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2006, ASC, Barolo Cerequio, Featured Tastings, Italy, Michele Chiarlo, Piemonte, red, white

Top Cellar offered another free tasting at their Amigo delicatessen and shop shared with Bento & Berries in the Kerry Centre. The wines were from various producers and were intended to be European Classics. All were imported by Top Cellar directly.

Sébastien Lézier of Winpact gave a short introduction to the wine accessories his company has put together for Top Cellar: two types of corkscrew (both ‘waiter’s friend’ design), two wine-pourers, Champagne stopper and the usual coolers and freezer cooler packs.

Wines tasted:

2004 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Urgestein, Kamptal, Austria

Appearance: medium gold yellow.

Nose: intense lime fruit, some minerality, hints of kerosene.

Palate: generous lime, pleasant acidity and good length.

Conclusion: we haven’t drunk much Austrian Riesling – Grüner Veltliner seems to have stolen some of the limelight internationally – but this has always been a very important and noble Austrian grape. This seemed to be a good expression, at least of Riesling.

Rating: 17/20

2004 Schloss Gobelsburg Zweigelt, Kamptal, Austria

Appearance: light to medium red-purple.

Nose: mostly red cherry fruit, possibly raspberry too.

Palate: light red cherry fruit, very low tannin, pleasant medium acidity, shortish length.

Conclusion: Zweigelt was created in the 1920s by Fritz Zweigelt, a hybrid of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. It ripens early and can withstand winter frost, so it’s easy to see why it might be popular with winemakers in Canada as well as Austria. Generally speaking, Zweigelt (Austria’s most planted red grape) is going to make light reds for quaffing. This was that, although no doubt someone is making more serious Zweigelt somewhere.

Rating: 15/20

1999 Vina Amezola Rioja Reserva

Appearance: medium purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: classic American oak nose but in an obviously aged and mellowed state with raspberry, strawberry and red cherry fruits.

Palate: pleasant fruit, decent oak, tannins slightly coarse, pretty good length.

Conclusion: certainly characteristic Rioja, but a bit disappointing at Reserva level.

Rating: 16/20

2003 Château Ducluzeau, Listrac

What used to be a called a ‘Cru Bourgeois’, this property is owned by the Borie family.

Appearance: medium purplre-red colour, clear rim.

Nose: warm red and black fruits from the 2003 heat, French oak.

Palate: mixture of red and black fruits, slightly coarse tannins, medium acidity, okay length.

Conclusion: not bad Claret if red Bordeaux at this level is your cup of tea. Not exciting.

Rating: 16/20

2003 Il Volano, Toscana IGT (Il Molino di Grace)

Appearance: medium purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: appealing tart red cherry fruit with touch of spice.

Palate: nice plucky Sangiovese tannins, the acidity you’d also expect, cherry fruit.

Conclusion: we couldn’t actually find this wine on the Il Molino di Grace website, but apparently it is 65% Sangiovese with the remainder a range of other grape varieties. Pleasant, easy-drinking Tuscan IGT.

Rating: 16.5/20

2003 Chianti Classico, Il Molino di Grace

Appearance: deep purple, clear rim.

Nose: ripe black cherry fruit, discernible but integrated oak, some clove and cinnamon spice.

Palate: lovely chewy not too astringent tannins, pretty good acidity for the difficult 2003 vintage in which the sheer warmth made attaining decent acidity a problem, lovely fruit and good length.

Conclusion: impressive Chianti Classico. Very drinkable. Approachable now, but will age.

Rating: 17.5/20

Labels: 1999, 2003, 2004, Austria, Bordeaux, Chianti, Featured Tastings, Italy, Kamptal, red, Riesling, Rioja, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Top Cellar, Tuscany, white, Zweigelt

We met Dr. Sandro Boscaini, President of Veneto producer Masi at the Grand Hyatt, Beijing, at the invitation of ASC.

Dr. Boscaini mentioned that he had come to China on several occasions and had once even transported a gondola to Beijing to display in the Kempinksi Hotel! On this visit, he was happy to talk to journalists about the slowly improving China fine wine market and share his thoughts for the future.

In effect, Masi wants to embrace the new fine wine culture - which is little different, on Boscaini's view, from the worlds of fashion or other consumable designer products - whilst keeping a keen eye on the company’s traditions and innovations. The desire to be ‘glocal’, both global and local was voiced. But Boscaini is hardly satisfied with marketing-speak alone. Conversation soon moved to Veneto wines and the Masi range; and Boscaini’s great passions came to the fore as we drank his excellent 2003 Amarone Costasera (Rating: 18.5/20 full tasting note available below).

Boscaini reminded us of Masi’s 1964 innovation in producing its Campofiorin, essentially a Valpolicella Ripasso produced with the skins of already fermented Amarone grapes (the same three grapes that make up Valpolicella: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara). What we didn’t know about was the development in the mid-1980s when Masi began to use semi-dried grapes in the Campofiorin. Thus Campofiorin became more of a wine based on appassimento (grape-drying) than ripasso as such and with annual sales of 3 million bottles, the quality-price ratio (still favourable to consumers) speaks for itself. Semi-dried grapes are also used in the production of the white Masicanco (with dried Pinot Grigio grapes blended with Verduzzo).

Whilst it is great to have such reliable Amarone in China, we asked Dr. Boscaini why there was not more Recioto, especially Recioto della Valpolicella, mentioning that this wine would appeal to Chinese tasters. This precipitated a discussion about the fate of Recioto della Valpolicella and the confusion that has existed since regulations insisted on the combination of Recioto della Valpolicella and Recioto della Valpolicella Amarone as categories.

Dr. Boscaini felt that the wine should simply be called Amarone and be dry in style, thereby differentiating it easily from Recioto della Valpolicella. Masi actually makes four different Amarone wines (Costasera, Mazzano, Campolongo di Torbe, Vaio Armaron) and three different Recioto wines from Corvina et al. (Mezzanella Amandorlato, Casal dei Ronchi, Amabile Degli Angeli). The company distinguishes between these carefully in promotional material and on their website.

We also asked about the role of botrytis in Amarone, learning that it is only the relatively thinner-skinned Corvina that tends to attract noble rot. Dr. Boscaini pointed out that levels of decent quality botrytis are acceptable and even desirable; and that the real problem can be the development of mould on drying tables during appassimento (Masi has developed techniques to minimize this problem). Control of tannins in both the Amarones and Recioto wines has also been an issue right from 1964 when the Amarone skins were first used in making Campofiorin.

The fate of Bardolino was also lamented, a wine that became a bit of a joke when awarded DOCG status when it was clearly not in the same league as Barolo and Barbaresco, for example. Dr. Boscaini is proud of the Masi Bardolino and hopes the wine can be rehabilitated both in the region and internationally. It’s another red wine we feel Chinese consumers would like.

All in all, Boscaini said that, for him, there are three flagship Masi wines: the Campofiorin, the Masianco and the Amarone Costasera. What impressed us is the comprehensiveness of the Masi range. Purists may find Amarone or Soave producers they prefer, but Masi really does keep high standards across a broad spectrum of wines.

2003 Amarone Costasera, Masi

Appearance: deep red colour with orange rim

Nose: warm intense red-cherry nose with some marzipan and sweet-smelling spices (cinnamon, cardamom).

Palate: palate is very elegant with fine acidity, great concentration of fruit, very mellow low chewy tannins and very good length. At 15% alcohol this wine does not actually seem alcoholic, largely because the wine-making is so good.

Conclusion: lovely Amarone and an inspiring expression of the style.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: Amarone, appassimento, ASC, Campofiorin, Dr Sandro Boscaini, Interviews, Italy, Masi, red, ripasso, Veneto, white

2006 Norton ‘Lo Tengo’ Torrontes, Mendoza, Argentina

Appearance: gold with orange tints.

Nose: distinctive Torrontes nose of lychee and mango, but not really the rose-petal or gingerbread quality of Gewurztraminer (nor the orange blossom aspect of Muscat). Torrontes is apparently related to Muscat, but it remains an Argentinian thing really.

Palate: palate was rich with strong tropical fruit, distinctive bitterness and even slightly salty in taste with low acidity, highish alcohol and some length. More pleasant on the nose than palate.

Conclusion: fascinating to taste, but we're not sure we'd want to drink a whole bottle. A good deal at 88RMB, however (from ASC).

Rating: 15.5/20

2004 Moscato d’Asti, Castello del Poggio, Piemonte, Italy

Appearance: characteristic cheerful green colour with orange tints and some sparkle.

Nose: pleasant Moscato nose of highly aromatic grapes. It certainly has not deteriorated into that geranium smell you get on oxidized Moscato d’Asti.

Palate: good fruit, refreshing acidity and balanced medium-high residual sugar.

Conclusion: we were concerned that the bottle-age – which is desirable only in very high-quality Moscato d’Asti wines – might be a problem here, but the wine had held up very well. Good and well-priced for the Beijing market at 134RMB from Palette Vino.

Rating: 16.5/20

2006 Indis Shiraz Rosé, Great Southern, Western Australia

Appearance: purple-pink.

Nose: strong strawberry and red cherry fruit on the nose and even some spice (white pepper?).

Palate: decent palate showing the same strong red fruit qualities, nice acidity and not too high alcohol (weighs in at 12.5%).

Conclusion: A real find from the Beijing wine club Big 9. Indis wines are under the flag of Forest Hill, a really good Western Australian producer. Well-priced at 165RMB.

Rating: 17/20

Labels: 2004, 2006, Argentina, ASC, Castello del Poggio, Indis, Italy, Mendoza, Moscato d'Asti, Norton, Piemonte, rose, Shiraz, sparkling, Torrontes, Western Australia, white

2001 Barbaresco, Produttori del Barbaresco

Appearance: lightish red-purple, pink rim.

Nose: redcurrant and slight red cherry nose with some tar, violets and some other perfume-like smell, slight spice.

Palate: delicate fruit on palate, fine spiky medium tannins, excellent fresh high acidity and a lovely balance of alcohol to acid to tannin to fruit.

Conclusion: we actually drank this over three days because it is still quite age-worthy even although not a Riserva. 2001 is also a particularly good vintage in Piemonte and the Produttori del Barbaresco always does a god job. Very, very good.

Rating: 18/20

Labels: 2001, Barbaresco, Italy, Nebbiolo, Piemonte, Produttori del Barbaresco, red

2001 ‘Le Guincare’ Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva, Monte Schiavo

Appearance: lovely gold colour with slight tinge of orange to it.

Nose: beautiful sour lemon and pear nose with nuttiness and good development (other savoury aromas like mushrooms and washed-rind cheese).

Palate: excellent acidity, balanced alcohol and at a beautiful stage. Very, very good.

Conclusion: this is lovely stuff. Italian whites get a hard press internationally (usually), in part because the wines on offer are dilute, bland and inexpressive (whereas the higher quality whites tend to stay in Italy itself). Verdicchio is a sophisticated grape that has similar ageing potential to Chardonnay from cooler climates. It has a bit more acidity though which can help. Monte Schiavo does a good job.

Rating: 18/20

Labels: 2001, Italy, Marches, Monte Schiavo, Verdicchio, white

1999 Barolo, Mauro Molino

Appearance: purple-pink, bricky rim.

Nose: a very Nebbiolo nose (red and black cherry fruit, spice, tar, rose petals, perfume), good use of oak.

Palate: lovely perfumed fruit; firm, spiky but also rounded tannins, excellent acidity, and commanding length.

Conclusion: absolutely stunning. This is a modernist wine showing great purity of fruit. In some ways I liked this wine even more than the more traditional G. D. Vajra 1999 Barolo enjoyed on 15th October 2005. But both are excellent wines.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 1999, Barolo, Italy, Mauro Molino, Nebbiolo, Piemonte, red

2005 Moscato d’Asti ‘La Caudrina’, Romano Dogliotti, Piemonte, Italy

Appearance: medium green gold, attractive fat bubbles.

Nose: beautiful Muscat fruit with grapey and perfumed orange aromas.

Palate: lovely fruit, more residual sugar here than on some examples, but this is matched by excellent acidity and very good length. Moscato d'Asti, although relatively sweet, should be refreshing and this is just that.

Conclusion: one of the top producers of Moscato d’Asti. Beautiful. Possibly a little young at present – other Moscato d’Asti we’ve tried in recent months have been about two years old or so. However, it's not usually worth ageing this kind of wine because it loses its aromatic fruit and tends to smell of geraniums after a while. The La Caudrina should be compared with Dogliotti's La Galeisa, another Moscato d'Asti. Would also be worth comparing both wines with the 2005 Moscato d’Asti Piasa Sanmaurizio, Forteta della Luja, possibly the greatest Moscato d'Asti we've had.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 2005, Forteta della Luja, Italy, Moscato d'Asti, Piemonte, Romano Dogliotti, sparkling

2000 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Il Macchione, Tuscany, Italy

Appearance: dark purple to black, clear rim.

Nose: dark black and red cherry fruit, pronounced but integrated new oak. Not really the savoury smells of other Sangioveses, but still characteristic of the grape (those savoury aromas can be due to oxidation anyway).

Palate: good fruit, lovely structure, excellent chewy tannins and lively not tart acidity (we think the older-style Italian reds tend to have tarter acidity and grainier tannins, depending on varieties and provenance). High in alcohol, but balanced throughout. Excellent length.

Conclusion: clearly modern-style Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (not to be confused with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from the Marches region which really is made from the Montepulciano grape!). But not an agressively modernist wine. In other words, there's good Sangiovese character here and some delicate wine-making. One to watch.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 2000, Il Macchione, Italy, red, Sangiovese, Tuscany, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

1999 Barolo Bricco delle Viole, G. D. Vajra

Appearance: medium red-purple in colour, some orange to the rim.

Nose: red cherry fruit with marzipan, game stock (some rich meat/vegetal flavours at least) and floral notes; a little spice from the oak here too. Delicate.

Palate: mellowed, prickly medium tannins, high balanced acidity, highish alcohol, good use of oak and lovely spicy fruit. Excellent length.

Conclusion: very good indeed. Ready to drink but could improve. A wonderful expression of Barolo.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 1999, Barolo, G. D. Vajra, Italy, Nebbiolo, Piemonte, red

1998 Langhe Vignaserra, Roberto Voerzio, Piemonte

Appearance: dark purple red, clear rim.

Nose: beautiful black and red cherry fruit, slight tar, non-intrusive and integrated oak. Complex savoury aromas.

Palate: lovely fruit, impeccable balance of acidity to oak to alcohol to fruit to tannin. That acidity is lively, but the wine is modern in style (or, better still, a 'blend' of modern and old-style influences). Great length.

Conclusion: Roberto Voerzio is clearly a great wine-maker. His Baroli and single-vineyard Barbera are basically unaffordable, but look out for all of his other wines. This Langhe (with strong evidence of Nebbiolo and Barbera in the mix) was superb and only just starting to drink.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 1998, Barbera, Italy, Langhe, Nebbiolo, Piemonte, red, Roberto Voerzio

1998 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico, Barone Ricasoli

Appearance: deep purple-red, slightly orange rim.

Nose: gorgeous sweet and sour cherry fruit, deep and ripe enough to balance superbly with the oak here (this wine is kept, as Nicolas Belfrage notes, for up to 18 months in barrique which is a long time really).

Palate: supple, surprisingly lowish tannins, excellent acidity and great fruit with a decent balance of fruit to alcohol. Very long.

Conclusion: top draw Chianti in a modern but not too modernist style. Very good and capable of further ageing.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 1998, Barone Ricasoli, Chianti, Italy, red, Sangiovese, Tuscany

2002 Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Extra Dry, Col de Salici

Appearance: medium green gold, attractive mousse.

Nose: intense apple and pear fruit, very pure, some mineral character.

Palate: nice mousse here, cheerful but not unsubtle; great purity of Prosecco fruit, with lovely acidity and very good length.

Conclusion: this is proper Prosecco!

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 2002, Col de Salici, Italy, Prosecco, sparkling, Veneto

2001 ‘Vigneto du Lot’ Soave Classico Superiore, Inama

Appearance: medium yellow to gold.

Nose: pronounced lemon fruit, nuttiness and an overall sour, attractive almond nose. Some minerality too.

Palate: lovely fruit, minteral, very balanced high acidity and a kind of richness reminiscent of aged Chablis. Excellent length.

Conclusion: this wine had everything classic Soave should have. This is actually the best bottle of Soave we've had (to date).

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 2001, Garganega, Inama, Italy, Soave, sweet white, Veneto