Welcome to the Dragon Phoenix Wine Blog, a wholly independent blog written by Fongyee Walker and Edward Ragg of Dragon Phoenix Fine Wine Consulting, an independent wine consultancy based in Beijing, China.

Here you will find literally hundreds of tasting notes on all the wines we have tasted and rated since 2003, many of which are now available in the Chinese market. Also, check out our Featured Tastings and Interviews with winemakers, winery owners and others involved in the industry.

For an explanation of how we rate the wines and how our tasting notes are organized, please see our Introduction. For a list of our overall aims for the site, please see Aims.

Happy reading and tasting!

Edward Ragg (a.k.a. Wine Dragon)
& Fongyee Walker (a.k.a. Wine Phoenix)

Note: Edward is also a contributor to popular Spanish and Portuguese-focused site Catavino. In addition, we are both happy to be members of Open Wine Consortium, a great network for wine trade professionals and wine lovers as well as Wine Blogger, a fraternity for vinous bloggers which lists the likes of plant scientist and self-proclaimed wine anorak Jamie Goode, Berry Bros. & Rudd and other merchants, various international wineries and a healthy mix of amateurs and professionals alike: for example, Grape Wall of China, a multi-contributor blog on the Chinese wine scene(s). Wine Lovers is another interesting on-line network with a sizeable membership.

Also check out Tom Cannavan's Wine Pages, the most established on-line wine magazine, Chris Kissack's Wine Doctor which has excellent producer profiles and copious tasting notes, Bill Nanson's The Burgundy Report (every Burgundy lover's dream) and, of course, Jancis Robinson MW's immensely readable and also fully independent site.

Labels: Aims, Catavino, Featured Tastings, Interviews, introduction, Open Wine Consortium, Wine Blogger

Summergate arranged for a media tasting with Keith and Clare Mugford of Margaret River producer Moss Wood. Moss Wood is well known as one of the region’s top wineries, an obvious rival to the likes of Leeuwin Estate. The quality of the wines here (see tasting notes below) is very high and the wine making impeccable. Margaret River overall is known for a host of strong producers and some of Australia’s most elegant wines. But the purity of fruit achieved in the two different Moss Wood Cabernets we tasted was particularly impressive.

The Moss Wood vineyard in Wilyabrup is given over to various varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon (5.43 hectares), Semillon (1.83 hectares), Pinot Noir (1.55 hectares), Chardonnay (2.17 hectares), Cabernet Franc (0.29 hectares), Merlot (0.03 hectares) and Petit Verdot (0.48 hectares). But grapes are also sourced from the Ribbon Vale vineyard (acquired by Moss Wood in 2000) and the Glenmore, Montgomery, Lefroy Brook and Green Valley sites; which enable the Mugfords to acquire grapes from significantly different areas in the wider Margaret River region.

The Moss Wood vineyard itself provides the fruit for the range of the same name: which includes a Chardonnay, two Semillons (one unoaked, one oaked), two Cabernet Sauvignons (one of which is termed ‘Special Reserve’ and is only made in certain vintages), a Pinot Noir (which has quite a following – the Mugfords themselves being great lovers of this grape) and also a ‘Port style’ wine (labelled ‘Vintage Port’). This last wine cannot be released in the European Union because of the protection of the Portuguese Port; but China would be no problem! However, Keith Mugford is amusingly candid about not wanting to pursue life as a fortified winemaker.

The Glenmore and Montgomery sites provide the grapes for the Amy’s Cabernet Sauvignon (see below), whilst a different Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are made from Lefroy Brook fruit (Green Valley providing yet another terroir-driven Chardonnay). Other wines are also made from fruit sourced in Pemberton and Palandri.

On their first visit to Beijing (en route to Shanghai and Guangzhou), Keith and Clare Mugford spoke passionately about the Margaret River as well as the innovations they have overseen at Moss Wood. Keith Mugford was a fount of wisdom concerning the care and attention that goes into their work in both the vineyards and cellar. Both suggested that, although the Margaret River region may expand, quality should be maintained provided wineries keep up the hard work and dedication that began in the 1960s with pioneers like Dr Bill Pannell who identified Moss Wood’s location as being ideal for premium wine production.

We tasted:

2005 Moss Wood Amy’s Cabernet Sauvignon

Appearance: medium-purple red, clear rim.

Nose: very pure blackcurrant and slight blueberry fruit with some dark red fruits too. Delicate use of oak here.

Palate: lovely ripe fruit, but this is also restrained in style. Refreshing medium acidity, ripe slightly chewy medium tannins and impressive length. Alcohol is high, but fully integrated.

Conclusion: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest 5% allocations of Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, this is clearly a very good vintage. The wine experienced less skin-contact than the Moss Wood Cabernets (see below). The idea is to express fruit purity and display only moderate tannins. Spends 14 months in French oak, only 25% of which is new (which would explain why the oak is moderate here and a good savoury background to the strong fruit). Very good, even if it is intended as quasi-baby brother to the Moss Wood Cabernet.

Rating: 18/20

2004 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon

Appearance: deepish purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: very pure dark fruits (blackcurrant, black plum), restrained integrated oak, some spicy notes. Youthful, but approachable.

Palate: excellent ripe fruit, medium-high chewy tannins, integrated medium acidity and balanced high alcohol. Very good length.

Conclusion: not precisely sure of the blend here, but the wine is kept for over a year in barrel. Actually, the 2004 was kept in three separate samples under oak and then blended after 12 months before spending slightly longer in barrel (this gave the Mugfords time to see the evolution of the different samples). Spent up to 14 days on the skins after fermentation. Although a year in which temperatures rose steeply right before harvest, this wine had no cooked or over-ripe aromas. Very, very good.

Rating: 18.5/20

During the tasting, we spoke about the ‘discount-image’ Australia has until recently had, particularly in the UK (Australia’s largest market) where supermarkets have commanded bulk supply at reduced rates to producer and consumer. The Mugfords felt that the recent drought in Australia will mean that both water prices and the prices of grapes will shoot up and that Australia may well benefit from not being able to provide international markets with a surplus of wine.

Increasingly, of course, top Australian winemakers are stressing the uniqueness of their individual vineyard sites and the uniqueness of the wines they produce, re-dressing the French concept of terroir in Australian clothes. The Mugfords are unashamedly no exception and spoke in detail about their different vineyards as well as the complex effects of sea-breezes on much of Western Australia.

Theirs is essentially a Burgundian approach, at least for their Pinot Noir; whilst their Cabernet-blends have the ripeness the Bordelais would die for, but in Australia achieving phenolic ripeness can occur only after your grapes risk having too much natural sugar (at least at too high sugar levels if you want to make wines of moderate alcohol). This doesn’t matter in the case of Moss Wood, however, because Keith Mugford (also a consultant winemaker to other properties) has found a way of producing 14.5% Cabernets that don’t knock your head off. These are fantastic wines.

Labels: 2004, 2005, Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Mugford, Featured Tastings, Interviews, Keith Mugford, Malbec, Margaret River, Merlot, Moss Wood, Petit Verdot, red, Western Australia

Gaia Gaja of famed Piemonte producer Angelo Gaja came to Beijing for a book-signing (at the Hilton Food & Wine Experience) and a special dinner arranged with importer ASC. She kindly consented to an email interview arranged around her busy schedule. Dragon Phoenix (hereafter DP) is very grateful to Gaia Gaja (hereafter GG) for her time and effort. With luck, she will be back in China in 2008.

DP: You recently visited Beijing to show-case your wines. What is your perception of the market for fine wines in China?

GG: The Chinese market is certainly one of the future, as China is a factor in all things: because of its growth and the increasing acquisition of wealth. Fine wine will undoubtedly be part of this expansion.

DP: How would you say Piemonte wines specifically are appreciated in China? Or is it too early for the market to understand the complexity of the Piemonte region?

GG: I believe our wines are accepted equally in China; just as all other fine wines in the world are. Their complexity is an added value which, with time, will be more and more appreciated.

DP: Your company has a number of business interests: including Gaja distribution, the Castello di Barbaresco as well as wine estates not just in Piemonte but also in Tuscany. How would you say your business experience has helped in establishing new markets for your wines in China and Asia as a whole?

GG: My mother has a little distribution company importing foreign wines to Italy (this is a business that concerns Italy alone). As to the Castello di Barbaresco, you are talking about the castle of Barbaresco which we bought in 1995 and restored. We were thinking of transforming it into a hotel but, in the end, we decided to keep it for the winery – so now there are offices and tasting rooms. So, we just make wine really. This is the only thing we know how to do and we will continue doing it just so.

We produce wine in Piemonte, in Montacino and in Bolgheri, as you know. The three wineries are working with different varieties: Nebbiolo, Sangiovese (in Montalcino), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (in Bolgheri). The three regions – what we call the ‘3 Bs’ of Italy, Barbaresco (and Barolo), Brunello and Bolgheri – are, in my opinion, the most prestigious in Italy. They provide the opportunity and real possibility of making long-ageing and complex wines. So, we have the same goal for the three wineries and the same style, but different expressions. The Chinese market can see the distinctive differences between these three wine regions with the distinctive Gaja flare in each case.

DP: Your family’s wine-making roots in Barbaresco date back to 1859 and Giovanni Gaja’s establishment of the winery. You have embraced both tradition and modern technology in your wine-making. How would you describe your company’s philosophy and outlook?

GG: My wines are easy recognizable in blind-tastings because they have a defined style that is obviously the style of our Barbaresco winery. The goal is to produce wines loyal to the area, and loyal to the history of the winery itself. To preserve their identity and dignity, we release them only in vintages when the weather conditions have allowed them to express all their beauties and to illustrate what Nebbiolo in Barbaresco can do.

The wines are, therefore, not produced every year. For example, our Piemonte winery did not produce any wine in 2002,1992,1984,1980 and 1972. The single vineyard wines (Costa Russi, Sori San Lorenzo, Sori Tildin, Sperss, Conteisa) were not even produced in 1994,1992 and in many other older vintages. Pieve Santa Restituta did not produce any wine in 2002 and in 2003; and Camarcanda was not produced in 2002 either.

To work like artisans, following every detail from the beginning to the end: this is our philosophy. We do not buy in grapes but only use what we produce from our estate vineyards which have been selected over several generations. We also personally select the wood for part of the barriques we use, and we are working on several other details in the winery too.

DP: Piemonte wines are very food-friendly. Do you believe your wines will pair well with different Chinese cuisines?

GG: I don’t know enough about Chinese food, but I had the pleasure to pair several of our wines with different Shanghai-ese dishes (which were more oily and generally sweeter to the taste than some of the other Chinese regional cuisines I’ve heard of). They paired extremely well.

DP: Angelo Gaja was the first wine-maker to use French barriques and introduce international grape varieties to the Langhe. How would you describe the difference between your ‘international’ wines and your Barbaresco DOCG or is there no difference in your wine-making philosophy for these wines?

GG: Even the international varieties that my father introduced and started to produce in Barbaresco (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay) are producing wines (Darmagi, Alteni di Brassica and Gaia & Rey) that are very Piedmontese in their personality. The grape varieties are a vehicle to express the flavours of the place where they are grown. Piemonte wines reflect minerality, earthiness, and can have fabulous ageing potential where the aromas develop exquisitely. All of these characteristics are expressed in the Darmagi, Gaia & Rey and Alteni di Brassica wines.

DP: Some of your top Barbaresco wines – Sori Tildin, San Lorenzo, Costa Russi – and the Barolos, Sperss and Conteisa, are ‘de-classified’ to Langhe Nebbiolo DOC because this allows you to add up to 15% of other grapes. Do you find that blending helps tame some of the more difficult aspects of Nebbiolo, e.g. its sometimes harsh tannins? Or is there another reason for blending?

GG: My winery has produced Barbaresco since 1859. And this is why Barbaresco is the most representative wine from our winery. The single vineyard concept was introduced in the late 1960s (in 1967 we produced the first single vineyard Barbaresco: Sori San Lorenzo). Clearly, Gaja became well-known through this Barbaresco, the only wine of the winery for generations; and the reason behind the re-classification of the single vineyards was to go back to Barbaresco as the only Barbaresco of the winery.

When we changed the denomination for the single vineyards, we discovered the advantage of being able to add, if we wanted, other varieties. The variety we are most interested in adding (and from 1997 did so) is Barbera: a local variety with very good acidity, excellent fruit and not too much tannin. In warm vintages Barbera is useful because it gives the wine a certain drinkability whilst also aiding ageing-potential. It works very well with Nebbiolo.

DP: Do you think it is easier for consumers to understand international grapes – for example, you make straight a straight Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Sauvignon Blanc – than the complexities of Italy’s DOC and DOCG system? Or is the Piemonte region itself of more importance to you and your customers?

GG: I think that one important reason why the international varieties are more understandable is that they are more well-known than the DOCs or DOCGs. So people are more used to drinking them and knowing what to expect from them. These varieties are like an international language that everyone can, on some level, speak and understand.

In Italy we have such a large selection of local varieties, all produced in such tiny quantities and areas, that it becomes very difficult to know them well. They are very much niche products. The international varieties give the chance to wine lovers to compare the results of certain grapes coming from different wineries and from different parts of the world.

DP: Nicholas Belfrage MW has written about your pricing policy, observing that this ‘seems to be paying off handsomely, with international buyers willing to spend any sum for a top name’ (Barolo to Valpolicella: The Wines of Northern Italy, p. 86). Belfrage does not dispute the very high quality of your wines, but wonders about global prices in the fine wine market. Do you think that buyers will continue to pay ‘any sum’ for top wines?

GG: The markets are undeniably growing and the new increasing demand cannot be absorbed by the offer of certain wines alone (as some wines cannot be produced in sufficient quantities to meet the demand). At the same time the production of wine is growing all over the world as well as the quality level (more countries are producing wines of better quality). So, for sure, in the case of certain top wines the prices will inevitably continue to grow. Fortunately, though, there will also be a good offer of wines at more moderate prices.

DP: In China, wine education should improve the market for fine wines as consumers become more confident in purchasing. How do you hope to support the appreciation of your wines in the Chinese market(s)?

GG: I like to explain my wines personally (and be there to explain them in person). I like to meet the people that drink and talk about my wines; and to hear their questions. This is one of the pleasures of my work. I will continue to come to China, maybe more often than I have in the past, and continue to explain what my wines mean to me to the people I will have the pleasure to meet. This is central to my life and work.

Labels: Angelo Gaja, ASC, Barolo, Bolgheri, Brunello di Montalcino, Cabernet Sauvignon, China, Gaia Gaja, Interviews, Italy, Langhe, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Nicholas Belfrage, Piemonte, red, white

Interview: Michele Chiarlo brings Barolo to Beijing

(see also Featured Tasting: The Wines of Michele Chiarlo including a vertical of his Barolo Cerequio)

I found Michele Chiarlo giving a class to the service staff of Aria restaurant. Afterwards we sat down and talked for an hour, joined by Giovanni Oliva (Asia Brand Manager for Grandi Vini d’Italia who represents Chiarlo in Asia) and ASC’s Cindy Jia. Chiarlo explained that his first visit to Beijing had been about 12 years ago and that his wines had been on the ASC list for some 8 years.

He likened the development of the Chinese market to that of the US or Japanese fine wine markets several years ago: with the exception that China is set to grow much more quickly in the early stages. He agreed that international wines will only make sense in this new market if they are paired with China’s many diverse cuisines and he recalled a successful wine-and-food matching dinner hosted by ASC in 2006 showing both Chiarlo’s wines and those of Umbrian producer Lungarotti; although he also confessed that it can be hard to make clear the virtues of Italian wines in general and Piemonte wines in particular to Chinese restaurant managers.

Chiarlo is from a family that has been working the Piemonte slopes for seven generations. They have vines in the Barolo, Calamandrana and Gavi zones (owning 50 hectares themselves with access to some 110 hectares overall). His son, Stefano, is currently the wine-maker working alongside oenologist Gianni Meleni. Michele himself has seen some 51 vintages, a tall, modestly dapper gentleman, equally modest in his conversation, but bursting with enthusiasm.

Chiarlo talked of the progress of the 2007 vintage: the weather was consistently mild throughout the year, although there was just enough rain when needed. Most of the grapes – even the fiendishly difficult Nebbiolo with its very long hang-time – achieved great phenolic ripeness. Average daily temperatures in August were around 30 degrees Celsius, with nightly temperatures of down to 14 degrees (ideal for preserving acidity). Whilst many of the wines will be impressive, Chiarlo was particularly excited about the Moscato harvest.

I asked about the developments he’d seen over his career in the vineyard and cellar. Chiarlo began green-harvesting about twenty years ago around 1984-5, following the innovations of Elio Altare, Angelo Gaja and Aldo Conterno. When pressed over the ‘traditionalist’ v. ‘modernist’ debate of the 1990s - basically, the choice between preserving traditional methods but making wines that are hard to drink young OR adopting new techniques to produce fruitier, softer wines for early drinking but ones which can lack varietal character – Chiarlo explained that producers had now learnt from both schools.

On Chiarlo's view old style wine-making can indeed keep varietal character but too many wines have tended to suffer from rough edges, unripeness and unruly acidity. New techniques such as ageing in French barriques (or adopting micro-oxygenation to make wines softer and more approachable) can obviously compromise varietal character and mask origin, but then the new attention to fermentation and what’s done in the cellar has reaped huge benefits. Most producers now have a composite approach.

Such observations have brought about changes in the Chiarlo cellar. Traditionally, Chiarlo used to macerate his Nebbiolos for about 35 days: now he opts for 15-16 days of skin contact to extract the best rather than the bitter tannins. But he still favours large barrels instead of barriques because of his desire to keep grape character and terroir intact.

Above all, Chiarlo wants wines of freshness, finesse and with enough concentration that they will express grape and vineyard/region exactly. He doesn’t want wines that will blow your head off or even ones that should be taken too earnestly. As he remarked: ‘drinking wine is not an exercise but a pleasure’. The question is, as Chiarlo then asked, ‘how much of a particular wine would you be happy to drink? One glass or more?’ This is the ultimate test of a wine’s appreciation.

Before the vertical tasting of his Barolo Cerequio, we turned to the characteristics of particular vintages and how Chiarlo decides on what to do each year. Generally speaking, Nebbiolo is not merely the last grape to be harvested: it also needs enough time in barrel before deciding what to do with it (age for longer in new oak or older wood, decide how much fining should be used, when to rack etc.).

Although, Barolo is famed for its longevity, Chiarlo insists that certain vintages have been hyped: although 2000 was a good year, for example, he would not agree with Wine Spectator’s 100 point award for the vintage (‘Perfection in Piemonte’ ran the header). Like many Piemonte producers, he prefers 2001. 1996, 1999 and 2001 are all high-quality Barolo years for the long haul. 2004 also looks to be very strong, but the excessive heat of 2003 will not, generally, give long-lived wines. The early 1990s were difficult with only 1993 pulling some weight in terms of quality and ageability; although many 1993s are essentially ready. The dreadful weather in 2002 also forced Chiarlo not to make any Barolo or Barbaresco, a difficult decision but an honest one. This integrity is reflected in the overall quality and purity of the Chiarlo range.

(see also Featured Tasting: The Wines of Michele Chiarlo including a vertical of his Barolo Cerequio)

Labels: 1993, 1996, 1999, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, ASC, Barbaresco, Barolo, Barolo Cerequio, Interviews, Michele Chiarlo, Moscato, Nebbiolo

We met Dr. Sandro Boscaini, President of Veneto producer Masi at the Grand Hyatt, Beijing, at the invitation of ASC.

Dr. Boscaini mentioned that he had come to China on several occasions and had once even transported a gondola to Beijing to display in the Kempinksi Hotel! On this visit, he was happy to talk to journalists about the slowly improving China fine wine market and share his thoughts for the future.

In effect, Masi wants to embrace the new fine wine culture - which is little different, on Boscaini's view, from the worlds of fashion or other consumable designer products - whilst keeping a keen eye on the company’s traditions and innovations. The desire to be ‘glocal’, both global and local was voiced. But Boscaini is hardly satisfied with marketing-speak alone. Conversation soon moved to Veneto wines and the Masi range; and Boscaini’s great passions came to the fore as we drank his excellent 2003 Amarone Costasera (Rating: 18.5/20 full tasting note available below).

Boscaini reminded us of Masi’s 1964 innovation in producing its Campofiorin, essentially a Valpolicella Ripasso produced with the skins of already fermented Amarone grapes (the same three grapes that make up Valpolicella: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara). What we didn’t know about was the development in the mid-1980s when Masi began to use semi-dried grapes in the Campofiorin. Thus Campofiorin became more of a wine based on appassimento (grape-drying) than ripasso as such and with annual sales of 3 million bottles, the quality-price ratio (still favourable to consumers) speaks for itself. Semi-dried grapes are also used in the production of the white Masicanco (with dried Pinot Grigio grapes blended with Verduzzo).

Whilst it is great to have such reliable Amarone in China, we asked Dr. Boscaini why there was not more Recioto, especially Recioto della Valpolicella, mentioning that this wine would appeal to Chinese tasters. This precipitated a discussion about the fate of Recioto della Valpolicella and the confusion that has existed since regulations insisted on the combination of Recioto della Valpolicella and Recioto della Valpolicella Amarone as categories.

Dr. Boscaini felt that the wine should simply be called Amarone and be dry in style, thereby differentiating it easily from Recioto della Valpolicella. Masi actually makes four different Amarone wines (Costasera, Mazzano, Campolongo di Torbe, Vaio Armaron) and three different Recioto wines from Corvina et al. (Mezzanella Amandorlato, Casal dei Ronchi, Amabile Degli Angeli). The company distinguishes between these carefully in promotional material and on their website.

We also asked about the role of botrytis in Amarone, learning that it is only the relatively thinner-skinned Corvina that tends to attract noble rot. Dr. Boscaini pointed out that levels of decent quality botrytis are acceptable and even desirable; and that the real problem can be the development of mould on drying tables during appassimento (Masi has developed techniques to minimize this problem). Control of tannins in both the Amarones and Recioto wines has also been an issue right from 1964 when the Amarone skins were first used in making Campofiorin.

The fate of Bardolino was also lamented, a wine that became a bit of a joke when awarded DOCG status when it was clearly not in the same league as Barolo and Barbaresco, for example. Dr. Boscaini is proud of the Masi Bardolino and hopes the wine can be rehabilitated both in the region and internationally. It’s another red wine we feel Chinese consumers would like.

All in all, Boscaini said that, for him, there are three flagship Masi wines: the Campofiorin, the Masianco and the Amarone Costasera. What impressed us is the comprehensiveness of the Masi range. Purists may find Amarone or Soave producers they prefer, but Masi really does keep high standards across a broad spectrum of wines.

2003 Amarone Costasera, Masi

Appearance: deep red colour with orange rim

Nose: warm intense red-cherry nose with some marzipan and sweet-smelling spices (cinnamon, cardamom).

Palate: palate is very elegant with fine acidity, great concentration of fruit, very mellow low chewy tannins and very good length. At 15% alcohol this wine does not actually seem alcoholic, largely because the wine-making is so good.

Conclusion: lovely Amarone and an inspiring expression of the style.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: Amarone, appassimento, ASC, Campofiorin, Dr Sandro Boscaini, Interviews, Italy, Masi, red, ripasso, Veneto, white