Four 1977 Ports: Graham's, Dow, Gould Campbell, Warre
1977 is a fabled year for Port lovers, maybe not as great as 1963, but definitely up there along with 1970. Compared with many of the 1980s' vintages, 1977 still stands out (rumours that the 1985 will take more time or may not be what experts thought abound, whilst 1983 has a generally better press with some lovely wines that are already drinking now).

Many of the 1977s are still somewhat young, although, of the below four Ports, Graham's is clearly the most approachable. Port experts (like Richard Mayson) should be consulted for more detailed notes and information on past vintages as well as the various Port shippers (British and Portuguese). We would love to taste, for example, '77 Taylor's and '77 Fonseca, if we ever get the chance.

But we offer some recent notes on four classic wines, all from the Symington Family:

1977 Graham’s

Appearance: medium red-purple, orange rim.

Nose: developed nose of candied red fruits with appealing nutty aromas.

Palate: mellow fruits, integrated high acidity and softened highish residual sugar. Lovely length and tannins now fully integrated.

Conclusion: one of the more forward wines of the vintage, the Graham’s 1977 is drinking really well, although there is no need to hurry (depending on how you like your Port).

Rating: 18.5/20

1977 Dow

Appearance: dark purple-red, slight orange rim.

Nose: rich nose of dark black fruits with definite spicy and savoury notes: clove, cinnamon, white pepper.

Palate: more richness of fruit, slightly chewy but mellowing medium-high tannins, integrated high residual sugar and lovely acidity. Superbly balanced, great length.

Conclusion: this is a fantastic Vintage Port that still has quite a life ahead of it. More sophisticated than the Graham’s, although the Graham’s is very good too. Perhaps it would be better to say that they are stylistically different: the Dow being more heavy-weight (although Dow ’77 still seems leaner than 1977 Warre – see below).

Rating: 19/20

1977 Gould Campbell

Appearance: dark purple-red, slight orange rim.

Nose: attractive black fruits but with some red plum or red cherry thrown into the mix. Some spicy notes. Fruit is more open than on previous bottles of this ’77.

Palate: more appealing black and red fruits, chewy mellowing medium-high tannins, good acidity and generally well-integrated. Decent length.

Conclusion: clearly high quality and of a similar weight to the Dow, although the mouth-feel is slightly different. The Gould Campbell has ‘chunkier’ fruit and is not quite as smooth as the Dow. The fruit is only just starting to open on this Port and it has quite a life ahead of it yet.

Rating: 18.5/20

1977 Warre

Appearance: dark purple-red, only slight orange rim.

Nose: mainly dense black fruits with dark spices (clove, black pepper) and attractive oak (oak seems to be more prominent on this bottle than on some of the other Ports tasted).

Palate: rich black fruits, but not jammy; lovely balance of high acidity to marked residual sugar. Tannins are well-knit and coating rather than being overtly chewy. Great length.

Conclusion: along with the Dow, this is probably our favourite of the bunch, although the quality of the 1977 vintage means it’s pretty hard to go wrong with Vintage Port in this year. Only just beginning to drink really.

Rating: 19/20

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Featured Tasting: Taste of the Nations Part I, Torres China Grand Tasting
Torres China threw a large tasting of their portfolio under the banner ‘Taste of the Nations’, a tasting of 150 wines organized by country. Fongyee, Ellen Xu and myself divided up those 150 wines and covered the majority.

The event itself was held at the Traders Hotel, Beijing, which did a good job and the Torres staff on hand were helpful and informative. There was a sizeable crowd, a decent mix of Chinese and ex-pat wine lovers and some good food to be had too. We were looking for wines that were decent expressions of their origins (and also useful for teaching purposes). Many of these examples would make reliable drinkers too.

Here were some of our favourites, including some for the cellar. Wines will be divided into two posts:

2000 Torres Nerola Syrah, Catalunya

Appearance: medium purple, slightly orange rim.

Nose: cool-climate Syrah nose with black fruits and black pepper, deft oak. Good.

Palate: pleasant medium chewy tannins, strong fruit, more black pepper. Good balance of fruit to oak. Acidity is maintained well too.

Conclusion: we don’t get to taste much Spanish Syrah, but more and more of them are appearing. This was well put together. Retail 192RMB.

Rating: 17/20

2002 Torres Mas La Plana Black Label

Appearance: dark purple to black, essentially clear rim.

Nose: very complex blend of black fruits, subtle oak and considerable spice and savouriness.

Palate: beautiful well-knit ripe medium-high tannins, great fruit, lovely acidity and very well balanced throughout.

Conclusion: obviously a top Cabernet Sauvignon, but very young at present. Needs time. Retail 489RMB.

Rating: 18.5/20

NV Graham’s Fine Ruby Port

Appearance: medium purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: concentrated red and black fruits, ‘Porty’ obviously but with light fruits, some slight spice.

Palate: medium-bodied, good acidity and well-balanced with regard to sugar and alcohol. Quite good length and only moderate in tannins (which are slightly chewy).

Conclusion: this is what entry-level Ruby Port should be: fruity, balanced, not too demanding. Retail 169RMB.

Rating: 17/20

NV Graham’s ‘Six Grapes’ Reserve Port

Appearance: darkish purple, clear rim.

Nose: crushed red and black fruits, powerful alcohol but this seems to be integrated.

Palate: sweet and also tart crushed red and black fruits, quite good balance of sugar to acidity with fairly good length. Tannins are gripping and ripe.

Conclusion: this is obviously a good Port – a Reserve Ruby – but there’s something unappealing about the tart fruit, even although there’s nothing wrong with quality here. Retail 278RMB.

Rating: 17/20

2000 Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage

Appearance: dark purple to black, clear rim.

Nose: very complex nose of concentrated black fruits, spicy oak and other savoury qualities.

Palate: lovely fruit, appealing structure with integrated chunky medium-high tannins, good acidity and a good balance of residual sugar to acid to alcohol. Good length.

Conclusion: a very stylish LBV from a strong vintage. We preferred this to the Six Grapes certainly. Retail 278RMB.

Rating: 18/20

NV Taittinger Brut Reserve Champagne

Appearance: medium gold, good mousse.

Nose: attractive yeasty nose with strong Pinot fruit (perfume, slight strawberry fruit even) but also some citrus from the Chardonnay here.

Palate: good fruit, lovely acidity and has promising length. Not very complex, but this may be a young bottle.

Conclusion: a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay blended from forty different vineyards, this is a reliable NV Champagne. It’s not exciting as the equivalent NVs from Pol Roger, Bollinger or Louis Roederer, but it’s still a good wine to go for and is one that should improve in bottle even after release. Retail 441RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2006 Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Riesling, South Australia

Appearance: green gold.

Nose: very attractive intense lime fruit with some floral notes too, slight kerosene.

Palate: lovely fruit, high refreshing acidity, more florality and a little kerosene. Good length.

Conclusion: a lovely example of Australian Riesling in this style. Well worth trying (and ageing). Retail 191RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2000 Peter Lehmann Mentor, South Australia

Appearance: dark purple to black, essentially clear rim.

Nose: warm nose laden with black fruits, but at the same time slightly tight (still a young wine on the nose). Good oak though.

Palate: complex fruit, gripping chewy tannins; fruit is a bit closed but the ripeness and concentration are definitely there. Promising length.

Conclusion: this wine needs time and is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec, 4% Merlot and spent 16 months in French oak hogsheads. I like the fact Malbec is part of the blend because this is hardly well-known as a grape in the Barossa, but is, of course, a traditional Bordeaux-blending grape. High quality and the 2002 (see below) is even better. Retail 531RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2002 Peter Lehmann Mentor, South Australia

Appearance: dark purple to black, clear rim.

Nose: much cooler fruit than the nose on the 2000 Mentor and with more savoury smells. Intense.

Palate: complex palate featuring a range of black fruits (blackcurrant, black cherry, blackberry, black plum etc.), chewy ripe but ‘cool’ tannins, lovely acidity and great length.

Conclusion: a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 10% Shiraz, 8% Malbec, this wine spent some 18 months in new French oak hogsheads. Retail: approx. 531RMB.

Rating: 18.5/20 [may get even better]

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