Dragon Phoenix Wine Blog

1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château de Beaucastel, Rhone Valley

Appearance: deep purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: a little closed at first – in fact, the wine seemed to waft ‘in’ and ‘out’ of expression as it developed in the glass – but began to show lovely red and black fruits (mix of blackberry, red and black cherry, redcurrant etc.) with beautiful oak and some distinctive spicy notes (white pepper, black pepper, clove etc.).

Palate: angular fruit that is still young in expression, medium-high acidity, large alcohol but this is well-integrated with some tight ripe medium-high tannins. Very good length.

Conclusion: 1998 was a wonderful vintage in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Beaucastel will go on for some time and should age beautifully. Likely to be a classic.

Rating: 18/20 [will be higher with age]

Labels: 1998, Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France, Grenache, red, Rhone

Globus Wines of Shanghai had winemaker extraordinaire Bertrand Sourdais up for a visit in Beijing on the back of a number of Shanghai events.

Sourdais, a former under-study at Château Mouton-Rothschild and Léoville-Las-Cases (who also gained hands-on experience with Chile’s Santa Rita and Priorat’s Álvaro Palacio), comes from a wine-making family in the Loire Valley and since 2003 has been responsible for the vintage at Domaine de Pallus, the family domaine in Chinon.

Sourdais sprung to fame, however, with his stunning Ribera del Duero wines, made at Dominio de Atauta in collaboration with Miguel Sanchez, a notable Madrid wine merchant and distributor who was instrumental in bringing the vineyards of the town of Atauta to public note.

Sanchez has 15 hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and sources fruit from some 600 further plots, many of which clearly contain the oldest vines in the region. Sourdais was explicit in insisting that the Tinto Fino is quite different in morphology and temperament from Tempranillo, at least as it is found in Rioja; and lamented the importation of Rioja Tempranillo into the Ribera region.

Accolades have justifiably followed the wines of Atauta. Nearly every major wine writer including not only Spanish critics but Robert Parker and Michel Bettane has hailed the quality here. But we found the Chinon to be among the best we have had too!

We’re very excited that these kind of wines are available in China and recommend checking out the Globus list. Along with Ruby Red Fine Wines in Shanghai, this is one of the more innovative and exciting companies; and it is no surprise that Globus recently teamed up with Bacchus Wines in Beijing to promote the wines of Alsatian producer Lorentz Klipfel (Bacchus is another supplier to watch).

2005 Les Pensées du Pallus, Chinon

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: very bright red and black fruits (strawberry, blackberry, cherries) with distinctive green pepper and very slight oak.

Palate: excellent acidity here (what Loire Cabernet Franc should be like!), lovely structure with medium chewy tannins and very good length.

Conclusion: this is perhaps the best Chinon we’ve had, easily up there with the wines of Charles Joguet (perhaps even purer in expression). Certainly the best Cabernet Franc we’ve had to date and attractively priced at RMB188.

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Atalayas de Golban, Ribera del Duero

Appearance: dark purple-red, pink rim.

Nose: very concentrated black fruits, with oak ‘just there’ (i.e. very well-integrated). The wine has a perfumed quality which is hard to describe – certainly not reminiscent of Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir. Complex.

Palate: marked acidity, very concentrated but elegant with superb fruit, ripe smooth medium tannins and lovely length.

Conclusion: an ‘atalaya’ is a watchtower and the Golban is a river in the Atauta valley. This is a separate project from the below Dominio de Atauta and the wine is intended for earlier drinking. Fermented in stainless steel with 80% of the wine then being aged in two to three year-old barrels (emanating from Château Haut-Brion), it is beautiful to drink now, but would also benefit from medium-term ageing if desired. Very, very good and quite a competitor to the below Dominio de Atauta, in fact. We prefer the Atalayas now, even although giving the Dominio de Atauta a higher overall rating. Retail RMB228.

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Dominio de Atauta, Ribera del Duero

Appearance: very dark purple to black, pink rim.

Nose: beautiful dark fruits, even more concentrated than the Atalayas de Golban, more overt oak here too. Needs time to develop in the glass, but it is already fragrant.

Palate: marked acidity (the acidity on all of Sourdais’s wines is prominent but pure), integrated medium-high chewy tannins, lovely fruit and very good length.

Conclusion: a blend of Tinto Fino from significant plots with old vines such as La Mala, Punto Alta, Cuesta Moral, and La Solana, this is intense but sophisticated and really needs time right now. Usually aged in 100% new French oak, the fruit is certainly robust enough to warrant this treatment. Wait on this. It will be amazing to see how it ages. Retail RMB465.

Rating: 19/20

Labels: Bacchus Wines, Bertrand Sourdais, Cabernet Franc, Chinon, Domaine de Pallus, Dominio de Atauta, France, Globus Wines, red, Ribera del Duero, Ruby Red Fine Wines, Spain, Tempranillo, Tinto Fino

Featured Tasting: Jaboulet (including two vintages of La Chapelle)

Summergate hosted Christophe Brunet of famed producers Paul Jaboulet Aîné and Château La Lagune, now jointly owned and managed by the Frey family. Caroline Frey is winemaker at both properties (at La Lagune, Denis Dubourdieu, her former professor, is also a consultant). But this tasting focused solely on the Jaboulet wines – La Lagune having already been a presence at the Union des Grand Crus visit to Beijing in late November (see previous posts).

Christophe Brunet explained the current innovations the Frey family is instituting at Jaboulet. The main idea is to refine the quality of the Hermitage La Chapelle and limit its production. To put this in perspective, Brunet pointed out that in the 1990 vintage 100,000 bottles of red La Chapelle were made compared with some 30,000 bottles in 2005. A ‘second wine’, La Petite Chapelle, will shortly be released and may well represent good value, particularly as La Chapelle has now become a costly collectors’ item.

2006 also saw the re-launch of a white La Chapelle (Jaboulet had previously stopped making its top white Hermitage in 1961). This wine is a 100% Marsanne and, judging by how well the 2001 Chevalier de Sterimberg showed - see below - will be one to watch.

We tasted the following wines:

2004 Parallèle 45 Côtes du Rhône White, Jaboulet

Appearance: dark yellow green.

Nose: noticeable pear fruit with some waxy aromas.

Palate: strong pear fruit, more waxy flavours, nice acidity though too. Has kept quite well.

Conclusion: made from a blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne and Bourboulenc, this is impressive at its level and a nice expression of white Côtes du Rhône.

Rating: 16.5/20

2001 Le Chevalier de Sterimberg Hermitage (Blanc), Jaboulet

Appearance: dark yellow green.

Nose: complex pear fruit with nutty aromas, wax and butterscotch. Developed nose but will still probably age happily enough.

Palate: rich mouth-feel with mellowed pear fruit, toffee and butterscotch flavours and considerable length.

Conclusion: a wonderful example of aged white Hermitage, something of a rarity and thankfully relatively undiscovered in the wine world (it’s certainly not popular in fine wine markets). Still has some life ahead but drinking beautifully now.

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Parallèle 45 Côtes du Rhône (Rouge), Jaboulet

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: light red berry fruits, slight white pepper from the Grenache and some darker fruit coming through from the Syrah here. Attractive.

Palate: light chewy tannins, nice fruit, lively acidity; well put together with quite good length.

Conclusion: a decent wine at its level. Dependable stuff.

Rating: 16.5/20

2005 Les Cedres Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Jaboulet

Appearance: medium purple-red, slight orange rim.

Nose: mix of red and black fruits with some characteristic Châteauneuf spice (Grenache-dominated). Oak is non-intrusive.

Palate: chewy medium tannins, medium-high acidity and with good length, the wine does not show much oak and is largely fruit-driven.

Conclusion: a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre, this is a reliable Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s not going to excite in the same way that wines from single domaines in the region can, but it’s a decent expression.

Rating: 17.5/20

1988 Hermitage La Chapelle, Jaboulet

Appearance: medium purple-red, with very marked orange rim.

Nose: decaying black and red fruits with a distinct meaty nose that later shows leaves, mushrooms and other secondary aromas. Very complex.

Palate: lovely mature palate with mellowed fruit, meaty and mushroomy flavours, softened medium grainy tannins, good acidity and superb length. Unfiltered, its throws a sediment that we recommend eating! The flavours are heavenly and show what aged Syrah at this level is all about.

Conclusion: clearly a very fine wine. Collectors will debate whether the 1988 vintage is the best La Chapelle, but here’s a wine to enjoy now that seems to be at its peak and in fine condition.

Rating: 19/20

2001 Hermitage La Chapelle, Jaboulet

Appearance: darkish purple-red, already showing orange rim.

Nose: a bit closed at first, then showing complex dark fruits, corned beef, liquorice and some characteristic black pepper (a signature of cool-climate Syrah).

Palate: ripe medium-high chewy tannins, excellent acidity, integrated dark fruits, but a bit tight right now.

Conclusion: this will clearly be an excellent vintage of La Chapelle, but should be left alone at present. Very good, but try again in 2011 and thereafter.

Rating: 18.5/20 [but may be higher]

Labels: 1988, 2001, 2004, 2005, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cotes du Rhone, Featured Tastings, France, Hermitage, Jaboulet, La Chapelle, La Lagune, red, Rhone, sweet white

The Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux held their annual grand tasting in Beijing, the last in a leg of an Asia-wide tour also comprising Tokyo (22nd Nov), Osaka (24th Nov), Seoul (26th Nov), Shanghai (28th Nov) and Guangzhou (29th Nov).

We have already posted our notes on the dry and sweeter whites (see Featured Tasting: Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux in Beijing, Parts I and II). Here is the beginning of Part III which is devoted to the reds in all their different appellations. In fact, we have had to subdivide our posts into Part IIIa-d to cover everything we tasted (see below).

Tasting multiple samples of young red Bordeaux effectively takes stamina and experience. High-end red Bordeaux made in a traditional style should keep for decades; along with Vintage Port and some German Rieslings, these are wines that can have considerable longevity and often have to be left for some time to show their complexity and subtlety.

The only thing harder than assessing extremely young wines destined for a long life is barrel-tasting of unfinished wines (i.e. those still undergoing fermentation). This is something we’ve done in Burgundy, but not in Bordeaux; although we did once get to taste barrel samples of the 2003 Ports (the fermentation may have been stopped with brandy, but it was precisely the brandy and powerful young fruit that made for hard work!).

But what about the 2004 reds? Generally speaking, the 2004 vintage is not as concentrated as years like 2005, 2000 and 1990, although it will obviously have ageing-potential (much more of a ‘classic’ year than the atypical 2003). To cope with the number of wines, our notes are necessarily condensed. They should also be seen as provisional. Although we have tasted significant numbers of wines at various competitions and wine challenges before, it is always best to re-taste wines that promise significant evolution (there's also the bottle variation that will naturally occur, even with top wines). Despite these provisos, 2004 can we seen as a reliable vintage for the medium term, although some wines will go for much longer.

We have arranged our notes around each Bordeaux appellation and grouped them into a series of posts:

Part IIIa: Pessac-Léognan and Margaux

Part IIIb: St. Julien

Part IIIc: Pauillac, St. Estèphe, Haut-Médoc and Moulis-en-Médoc

Part IIId: St. Emilion and Pomerol

Sadly, there was not much of a presence for St. Estèphe at the Beijing tasting and we didn’t get to taste as many Pauillacs or Pomerols as we wanted (despite what was on offer). In some cases, we made a point of not revisiting old favourites that have been established as good value (e.g. Châteaux Batailley, Angludet, Talbot), but couldn’t resist sampling Léoville and Langoa Barton.

Part IIIa: Pessac-Léognan and Margaux

2004 Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan

Appearance: deepish purple-red.

Nose: lovely fruit, good oak, very attractive nose.

Palate: excellent concentration for the vintage, lovely tannins, strong fruit and impressive length.

Conclusion: 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine spent some 21 months in oak (50% of which was new). It has the fruit and structure to age gracefully. Lovely Pessac.

Rating: 18.5/20

2004 Château Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan

Appearance: medium-dark purple-red.

Nose: pleasant fruit, good use of oak here and good concentration.

Palate: big, chewy tannins, good acidity and decent length. The fruit has decent concentration too.

Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, this wine usually spends around 18-22 months in barrel (100% new oak). Another impressive Pessac. Has a different tannic structure from the Domaine de Chevalier; but both have their charms and should age well.

Rating: 18/20

2004 Château Giscours, Margaux

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: beautiful savoury nose with red and black fruits and even some mineral notes. Non-intrusive oak.

Palate: lovely semi-chewy medium tannins, vibrant acidity and more ‘minerality’. Good fruit and impressive length.

Conclusion: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and the remaining 5% a mixture of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this wine spends some 15-18 months in oak (50% new). This is very stylish Margaux with a considerable future ahead of it.

Rating: 18.5/20

2004 Château du Terte, Margaux

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: very attractive black fruits with some spice and green pepper notes (there’s more Cabernet Franc and marginally more Petit Verdot than on the Ch. Giscours). Good use of oak.

Palate: decent structure, good acidity, pleasant fruit and good length with chunkier tannins than the Giscours.

Conclusion: 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, this wine spends similar time in oak to the Ch. Giscours (they come from the same stable under General Manager, Alexander Van Beek). This is clearly very good, but the Giscours is better in this vintage.

Rating: 18/20

2004 Château Dufort-Vivens, Margaux

Appearance: deep purple-red.

Nose: stalky first nose, but this gives way to dark fruits and subtle oak.

Palate: nice acidity, ripe chunky tannins, good fruit and promising length.

Conclusion: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc, this wine sees some 16-20 months in oak (ranging from 35-45% new, depending on vintage). There’s more Cabernet Sauvignon here than on most Margaux – in fact Dufort-Vivens actually decided to graft some Cabernet Sauvignon on to some of their old Merlot vines. This gives a bigger Margaux.

Rating: 18/20

2004 Château Kirwan, Margaux

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: toasty first nose, mineral notes, but also lovely fruit coming through. Complex.

Palate: gripping, ripe medium tannins, excellent fruit, good acidity and more harmonious on palate than on nose at present.

Conclusion: 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, this wine saw about 35% new oak, but we’re not sure for how long. What is clear is that Kirwan is in very good shape with the 2004 vintage. Very good Margaux.

Rating: 18.5/20

2004 Château Lascombes, Margaux

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: plenty of oak, but there is more than ample fruit coming through here as well. Some spice and has a lot to give yet.

Palate: big chunky tannins, large structure, good fruit, pleasant acidity and decent length.

Conclusion: 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot, this wine varies in treatment but does get to see a lot of new oak (usually 80-100%). However, there is more than enough fruit to match. This Margaux is in the larger style also favoured by Dufort-Vivens. Needs time.

Rating: 18/20

Of this group, Domaine de Chevalier, Giscours and Kirwan particularly stood out. But there were some good all round 2004s here.

Labels: 2004, Bordeaux, Domaine de Chevalier, du Terte, Dufort-Vivens, Featured Tastings, France, Giscours, Kirwan, Lascombes, Margaux, Pape Clement, Pessac-Leognan, red, Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux

Part IIIc of our tasting notes to the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux grand tasting refers to the appellations of Pauillac, St. Estèphe, Haut-Médoc and Moulis-en-Médoc. We were not able to taste all the wines on show, but hope the below will prove useful for those interested in this underrated vintage.

2004 Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac

Appearance: deep purple colour.

Nose: very attractive black fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry, some black plum) matched by non-intrusive oak. Concentrated and fragrant.

Palate: strong on fruit, large chewy tannins, excellent acidity, good concentration and good length.

Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this wine spends 12 months in 60% new oak. It is robust and very well-made Pauillac. Should age very well.

Rating: 18.5/20

2004 Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: ‘sweet and savoury’ first nose showing lovely blackcurrant fruit with moderately toasty oak.

Palate: lovely concentration and ripe, chewy tannins. More attractive fruit and oak here with good length.

Conclusion: 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 15% merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, this wine spends some 15 months in barrel (not sure what percentage is new oak). Whatever the case, this is an attractive and well-made Pauillac.

Rating: 18.5/20

2004 Château Cos Labory, St. Estèphe

Appearance: dark purple.

Nose: very blackcurrant with strong intense fruit, non-intrusive oak and savoury notes.

Palate: concentrated, nice tannins, strong fruit and quite good length.

Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this has some of the intensity of St. Estèphe without being ‘rustic’. The wine is exposed to 45% new oak, although we’re not sure for how long. Good.

Rating: 17.5/20

2004 Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: attractive red and black fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry, red plum) with distinct spicy notes (from oak and Petit Verdot). Good oak.

Palate: well-balanced palate with good fruit, fine acidity, medium slightly chewy tannins and impressive length. Not intense, but delicate.

Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, this wine spends 18 months in oak (50% new) and is clearly of high quality. The percentage of Petit Verdot adds some complexity to the fine fruit. Should age very well.

Rating: 18.5/20

2004 Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc

Appearance: medium purple.

Nose: immediately appealing savoury, fruity and slightly ‘animal’ nose. Good oak.

Palate: nice concentration, ripe chunky tannins with good balance and good length.

Conclusion: 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, this is a reliable and well-made Haut-Médoc. Cantemerle is good value.

Rating: 17.5/20 [could be higher with time]

2004 Château Chasse-Spleen, Moulis-en-Médoc

Appearance: medium purple.

Nose: savoury and slight green first nose, but the fruit comes through as ripe and attractive. Nice oak.

Palate: good concentration – there’s certainly no hole in the middle here – with nice tannins, decent acidity and pleasant fruit. Good.

Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, this wine will have spent something like 14-18 months in barrel (40% new oak). Reliable and well-made.

Rating: 17.5/20

Labels: 2004, Cantemerle, Chasse-Spleen, Cos Labory, Featured Tastings, France, Haut-Medoc, La Lagune, Lynch-Bages, Moulis-en-Medoc, Pauillac, Pontet-Canet, red, St. Estephe, Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux

The Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux held their annual grand tasting in Beijing, the last in a leg of an Asia-wide tour also comprising Tokyo (22nd Nov), Osaka (24th Nov), Seoul (26th Nov), Shanghai (28th Nov) and Guangzhou (29th Nov).

Many chateaux owners were then going on to Singapore and India, en route back to France. Several commented that the turn-out at Beijing’s Sofitel Hotel was better than in previous years; and were happy both with the volume here as well as in Shanghai and Guangzhou in particular. We spoke with several owners about their perceptions of the China and wider Asia markets and although no single property has obvious ‘brand’ recognition within China – apart, perhaps, from Château Lafite – they were cautiously optimistic about the future in Beijing and further a field.

This year the UGC showcased the 2004 vintage, still under-appreciated and under-valued, at least alongside 2000 and 2005. The hype surrounding 2003 may still exist, but most people should recognize the vintage had atypical weather conditions that resulted in some strange wines from some quarters as well as over-activity in the market. Recall 1997: different weather conditions, but similar hype. The 1997s drunk much sooner than some expected; clearly a different vintage from the likes of 1995 and 1996.

With so many wines to taste, the notes we offer here are condensed, beginning with dry whites (Part I), then the sweeter ones (Part II) - the Sauternes and Barsac wines were particularly strong - followed by reds from the various appellations (Part III).

2004 Domaine de Chevalier (Blanc), Péssac-Leognan

Appearance: medium green gold.

Nose: attractive nose with marked Sauvignon notes – here slightly aromatic and peachy (not the clone that is used in Sancerre or for other Sauvignons in the Loire Valley) – but with lemon and slight wax coming through from the Semillon. Good use of oak.

Palate: integrated fruit, fresh acidity, good length and pleasant oak. Not heavy. Elegant.

Conclusion: decent white Pessac, this wine is 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon and spends 18 months in oak (a third of which is new). Very good.

Rating: 18.5/20

2004 Château La Louvière (Blanc), Pessac-Léognan

Appearance: medium green gold.

Nose: lovely oak which is currently predominant backed by citrus (the fruit should come out later).

Palate: very balanced, considerable toasty oak, but the fruit is there with very good acidity.

Conclusion: this wine is 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Semillon and is a lovely example of dry white Bordeaux.

Rating: 18.5/20

2004 Château Malartic-Lagravière (Blanc), Pessac-Léognan

Appearance: lightish green-gold.

Nose: made in a light savoury style with some green notes but also peach from the Sauvignon Blanc. Oak is non-intrusive.

Palate: good acidity, with light apple and peach fruit. Quite good length.

Conclusion: a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, this much more of an aperitif dry white Bordeaux than a so-called ‘first course wine’, but some may like the light style and the fact the oaking is on the light side here too.

Rating: 17/20

2004 Château Olivier (Blanc), Pessac-Léognan

Appearance: medium green-gold.

Nose: nice intensity of lemon fruit here with good oak and even some minerality.

Palate: good fruit, nice acidity and good length. Oak is balanced.

Conclusion: this spends 10 months in oak (of which 20% is new) and is well put together. Should age well too.

Rating: 17.5/20

Labels: 2004, Bordeaux, Domaine de Chevalier, Featured Tastings, France, La Louviere, Malartic-Lagraviere, Olivier, Pessac-Leognan, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux, white

Here are our tasting notes for the 30th November 2007 Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux tasting in Beijing Part IIIb which comprises the appellation of St. Julien.

Please see other posts for other appellations/communes and an overview of the 2004 vintage for dry whites (Part I), sweet whites (Part II) and reds (Part IIIa-d).

2004 Château Langoa Barton, St. Julien

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: very fragrant first nose with lovely blackcurrant fruit and excellent oak.

Palate: ripe medium-high chewy tannins (these seem larger on this wine than on the Léoville Barton at present – see below); excellent fruit, good acidity and well-balanced throughout.

Conclusion: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this wine spends 20 months in barrel (in 50% new oak). It’s very stylish and has some of the robustness of St. Julien showing through.

Rating: 18.5/20

2004 Château Léoville Barton, St. Julien

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: classic blackcurrant nose with ‘pencil-shaving’ oak and some mineral or metallic notes. Complex.

Palate: lovely ripe medium tannins (structure is unexpectedly lighter than the Langoa, at least on this bottle) with good fruit, pleasant acidity and impressive length.

Conclusion: 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, this undergoes very similar treatment to Langoa Barton. Although this vintage is lighter than the likes of more concentrated years (e.g. 1990, 2000, 2005), it has great finesse. The Langoa Barton just had the edge in quality, at least in these bottles.

Rating: 18/20

2004 Château Léoville Poyferré, St. Julien

Appearance: medium purple.

Nose: intense blackcurrant and black plum nose, good oak.

Palate: chunky and spiky medium-high tannins, nice acidity and good fruit. Pretty good length.

Conclusion: 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, this wines is exposed to 75% new oak (although we’re not sure for how long). Good quality St. Julien and increasingly less in the shadow of Léoville and Langoa Barton.

Rating: 17.5/20

2004 Château Beychevelle, St. Julien

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: has the overt blackcurrant fruitiness of St. Julien balanced by nice oak here.

Palate: rich palate, good fruit, ripe and chewy tannins, good length.

Conclusion: 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot, this wine spends some 18 months in 50% new oak. This seemed a reliable expression, up to Beychevelle’s quality certainly.

Rating: 17.5/20

2004 Château Branaire-Ducru, St. Julien

Appearance: medium purple-red.

Nose: very savoury first nose in which oak is more dominant than fruit at present. But the fruit is there.

Palate: toasty oak, nice acidity, rounded and very savoury.

Conclusion: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, this is a savoury and well-made expression of St. Julien. Good.

Rating: 17.5/20

2004 Château Gruaud Larose, St. Julien

Appearance: dark purple.

Nose: lovely black fruits, leather and floral notes including some spiciness (clove, cinnamon) mostly derived from the oak here (but the Petit Verdot probably also makes a difference).

Palate: gripping large tannins (chewy in texture), good acidity, strong fruit and impressive length.

Conclusion: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec, this wine spends 18 months in barrel (40% new oak) and was generally very impressive. Well worth keeping.

Rating: 18/20

2004 Château Lagrange, St. Julien

Appearance: medium purple.

Nose: very fragrant nose featuring toasty oak with some green notes to the black fruit (not unripe, merely aromatic).

Palate: light fruits, nice medium chewy tannins, toasty oak and delicate. Quite good length.

Conclusion: 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot, this is a delicate St. Julien.

Rating: 17.5/20

Clearly, the stand-out wines here were Léoville and Langoa Barton as well as Gruaud Larose. But it will be interesting to see how the others develop.

Labels: 2004, Beychevelle, Branaire-Ducru, Featured Tastings, France, Gruaud Larose, Lagrange, Langoa Barton, Leoville Barton, Leoville Poyferre, red, St. Julien, Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux

2004 Jurançon, Domaine Charles Hours, France

Appearance: deepish amber gold.

Nose: very attractive and spicy nose here from the Petit Manseng with nutty aromas and honeyed and candied fruits (lemon, orange, grapefruit).

Palate: more candied fruit, good acidity and a lovely balance between the residual sugar and acidity throughout. Pretty good length.

Conclusion: a very nice expression of Jurançon comparable in quality to Domaine Cauhapé. Very good.

Rating: 18/20

Labels: 2004, Charles Hours, Domaine Cauhape, France, Jurancon, Petit Manseng, sweet white

2003 Chassagne-Montrachet, Marc Morey, Burgundy, France

Appearance: medium gold-green.

Nose: very attractive French oak nose matched by ripe citrus fruit – mainly lemon – and possibly some melon fruit too. Also mineral and savoury qualities.

Palate: powerful lemon fruit, impressive acidity for the difficult 2003 vintage, lovely toasty oak and superb length.

Conclusion: this was a very high quality Chassagne and very impressive given the hardships of 2003. This is the first time we’ve tasted Marc Morey’s wines – having drunk much more of Michel Morey-Coffinet in the past (Chassagne is a minefield of Moreys, Coffinets and other relations) – and we were definitely convinced of the quality here (tasted at an event where several bottles were served showing great bottle-to-bottle consistency).

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 2003, Burgundy, Chardonnay, Chassagne-Montrachet, France, Marc Morey, white

Importer East Meets West teamed up with wine merchant Top Cellar in order to show the wines of Gérard Bertrand (from France’s Languedoc region) at Centro in the Kerry Centre Shangri-La.

2006 Gérard Bertrand 6’eme Sens Rosé

Appearance: attractive medium pink.

Nose: a range of red fruits including strawberry and red cherry. Clean and attractive.

Palate: slight residual sugar, but basically dry. Attractive fruit, some acidity, not flabby certainly.

Conclusion: pleasant, drinkable rosé. Fun. Food-friendly.

Rating: 16/20

2005 Gérard Bertrand Chardonnay

Appearance: medium yellow.

Nose: no oak here, ripe peach and melon fruit.

Palate: palate is smooth – this wine does actually go through malolactic fermentation, it just does so in stainless steel not oak – with more peach and melon fruit. Acidity is relatively low here.

Conclusion: pleasant, fruity Chardonnay, but not very exciting. Good with food, however.

Rating: 16/20

2003 Gérard Bertrand Minervois

Appearance: medium purple-red, essentially clear rim.

Nose: very fragrant, i.e. not just black fruits from the Syrah and Carignan blend here, but some spice and even perfume of sorts.

Palate: pleasant fruit, medium-bodied, soft on tannins.

Conclusion: this wasn’t as heat-damaged as I thought it might be (thinking of the 2003 vintage). The grapes were obviously picked judiciously. Good.

Rating: 16.5/20

2005 Gérard Bertrand Château L’Hospitalet Reserve

Appearance: medium purple, clear rim.

Nose: a range of black fruits, spicy, nice use of oak.

Palate: medium-bodied, plucky medium tannins, lifting acidity, nice fruit and oak.

Conclusion: a decent blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Good.

Rating: 17/20

2002 Gérard Bertrand La Forge Terroir Boutenac, Corbières

Appearance: darkish purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: a mixture of red and black fruits (hard to define what) with lots of herbs, particularly Mediterranean ones, e.g. rosemary and oregano/marjoram.

Palate: elegant palate with good acidity, nice integration of fruit to oak, attractive medium chewy tannins and good length.

Conclusion: a lovely blend of Syrah and Carignan. Very good.

Rating: 18/20

2002 Gérard Bertrand Le Viala, Minervois La Livinière

Appearance: darkish purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: pleasant mixture of red and black fruits, good oak, distinctive Mediterranean herbs (rosemary, thyme).

Palate: elegant, complex fruit, good oak again, medium chewy tannins, good length.

Conclusion: made from old vines (50-80 years-old), this is probably less powerful than in other bigger vintages, but still impressive.

Rating: 18/20

Labels: 2002, 2003, 2005, 2006, Carignan, Chardonnay, Corbieres, East Meets West, Featured Tastings, France, Gerard Bertrand, Grenache, Languedoc, Minervois, Mourvedre, red, rose, Syrah, Top Cellar, white

2005 Saumur ‘Les Salaises’, Rémy Pannier

Appearance: dark purple to black, clear rim

Nose: complex mixture of blackberry and black cherry fruit (definitely black fruits here rather than the lighter red fruits Cabernet Franc can also sometimes show), green pepper, other savoury notes.

Palate: rich fruit, dusty but ripe tannins, considerable structure, nice acidity, good length.

Conclusion: Rémy Pannier is part of Ackerman Rémy Pannier, one of the Loire’s largest wine merchants/producers. This Saumur was very good, possibly not in the same league as the top wines of Charles Joguet, but impressive nonetheless. The wine kept on giving and would merit decanting or double-decanting. Available from Bacchus and good value at 146RMB.

Rating: 17.5/20

Labels: 2005, Bacchus Wines, Cabernet Franc, France, red, Remy Pannier, Saumur

1964 Château Le Gay, Pomerol, Bordeaux

Appearance: medium purple-red, orange rim.

Nose: decaying black fruits, black plum, blackberry, some ‘greenness’, perhaps from the Cabernet Franc (unlikely to be from under-ripe grapes), very savoury with leather, mushroom and other vegetal aromas, but these are supported by quite a lot of fruit still.

Palate: still some fruit here which balances very well with the leather and chutney-like aromas, mellowed medium grainy tannins, pleasant acidity and very good length.

Conclusion: a very high-quality aged Pomerol from a great year. We're not sure of the exact assemblage (blend) here, at least for the 1964 vintage. But this was superb.

Rating: 19/20

Labels: 1964, Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc, France, Le Gay, Merlot, Pomerol, red

We have to delcare an interest here in that Edward's brother, Michael Ragg, is co-partner of Mischief & Mayhem, the Burgundian negociant-eleveur based in Aloxe-Corton (which he runs with Michael Twelftree of Barossa-based Two Hands Wines).

But we are not alone in thinking the quality of the wines here is very high. Wine Spectator has awarded repeated high scores in their blind-tastings and quality is set to improve even further, as Bruce Sanderson reported on his recent visit.

In July 2007 we tasted a range of both the white and red 2005s at the property.

Here are our notes on the reds:

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Peuillets

Appearance: medium purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: bright strawberry and raspberry fruit, lovely oak, perfumed.

Palate: attractive red fruits, nice ripe grainy tannins with lovely acidity. Good length.

Conclusion: Very approachable and really good value all round.

Rating: 17.5/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Fournières-Guérets

Appearance: deepish purple-red colour, clear rim.

Nose: red and black cherry nose with some smoke (a darker, even ‘tarry’ nose here). Complex, if a little tight at present.

Palate: strong cherry fruits, largeish chewy tannins on the palate with great acidity and a very good overall structure (fruit-alcohol-acid-tannin balance is very good).

Conclusion: A blend of two Aloxe-Corton Premier Crus, this wine needs time. Will be very good over the next ten years (should keep for even longer).

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Volnay (Vieilles Vignes)

Appearance: bright red-purple colour, clear rim.

Nose: immediately attractive bright red cherry nose with some spice (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg) from the oak here. Very appealing.

Palate: bright, deep fruit from the old vines comes through on the palate which has fine acidity with the tannins arriving ‘later’: these are chunky but still more grainy in texture than chewy exactly. Lovely oak and superb structure.

Conclusion: approachable now, but also a wine that will benefit hugely from cellaring. Very good.

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Gevrey-Chambertin

Appearance: medium purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: pronounced oak but backed by strong fruit (principally red and black cherry, even some plum); fruit becomes more generous as the wine opens out.

Palate: palate is angular with strong red and black fruits, fine acidity and chunky ripe tannins. Good length.

Conclusion: Young and very good. Will get better and better.

Rating: 18/20 [likely to improve]

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Pommard 1er Cru Clos Blanc

Appearance: medium to deep purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: generous fruit and ‘power’: a strong nose of red and black cherry, some plum, nice oak which also contributes some spice.

Palate: more powerful red and black fruits on the palate with increased spice, good acidity and a big Pommard-like structure.

Conclusion: Needs time. Very promising Pommard.

Rating : 17.5/20 [for the moment]

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts

Appearance: more purple than red, clear rim.

Nose: very perfumed first nose with dark red and black fruits, some spice and considerable complexity as the oak marries with the fruit.

Palate: hugely perfumed, lovely fruit; the palate has great acidity with silky elegant tannins and fantastic concentration.

Conclusion: Very, very good.

Rating: 19/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Grand Cru Clos Vougeot

Appearance: basically purple, clear rim.

Nose: very much berry fruit on the first nose (redcurrants, blackcurrant leaf). This bright first nose then reveals darker fruits (black cherry). The nose is almost a cross between the Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts and the Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru blend combining that irresistible perfume of the Vosne (violets and something else I can’t put my finger on) with the tarry, smoky and spicier qualities of the Aloxe.

Palate: the palate has complex fruit, excellent acidity, fine chewy tannins and great length.

Conclusion: Superb, but needs time. This wine is still very young indeed.

Rating: 19/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Grand Cru Corton Bressandes

Appearance: predominately purple, clear rim.

Nose: lovely oak coming through with very ripe, bright, sweet and creamy fruits (mix of red and black fruits again).

Palate: strong fruit, with chewy medium tannins, excellent acidity and very good length.

Conclusion: approachable now, but clearly still a young wine. This bottle was even better than the one tasted the previous day. Very, very good.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 2005, Aloxe-Corton, Burgundy, Corton, Featured Tastings, France, Gevrey-Chambertin, Mischief and Mayhem, Pinot Noir, Pommard, red, Savigny-Les-Beaune, Volnay, Vosne-Romanee, Vougeot

Featured Tasting: Mischief & Mayhem 2005 White Burgundies

We have to delcare an interest here in that Edward's brother, Michael Ragg, is co-partner of Mischief & Mayhem, the Burgundian negociant-eleveur based in Aloxe-Corton (which he runs with Michael Twelftree of Barossa-based Two Hands Wines).

But we are not alone in thinking the quality of the wines here is very high. Wine Spectator has awarded repeated high scores in their blind-tastings and quality is set to improve even further, as Bruce Sanderson reported on his recent visit.

In July 2007 we tasted a range of both the white and red 2005s at the property. Here are our notes on the whites:

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chablis

Appearance: lightish green gold.

Nose: beautiful mineral nose, light lemon and even green apple fruit here too.

Palate: lovely citrus fruit with more mineral notes (wet stones), excellent acidity and impressive length.

Conclusion: this wine is actually 1er Cru Côte de Léchet, but the decision was to deliver a really good Chablis at a decent price in order to establish something reliable as a new addition to the range (rather than price it at Chablis 1er Cru level). This is very good and should improve in bottle very well.

Rating: 17.5/20 [but will improve]

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chardonnay

Appearance: medium yellow colour.

Nose: lemon fruit with mineral notes, slight oak, fresh, slightly nutty.

Palate: lovely lemon fruit with some well-balanced acidity (even for Chardonnay). Good length.

Conclusion: A very good Bourgogne Blanc.

Rating: 17/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

Appearance: medium green gold.

Nose: intense green apple and lemon fruit, mineral, savoury, concentrated nose.

Palate: marked but integrated high acid, lovely fruit, more mineral flavours, but with a rounded feel too. Intense and full-flavoured.

Conclusion: very promising Grand Cru Chablis with a considerable life ahead of it, if highly drinkable now.

Rating: 18.5/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Meursault

Appearance: deepish yellow.

Nose: very attractive lemon and melon fruit (not too lush) with nicely balanced toasty oak.

Palate: good acidity and soft citrus fruits with a creamy note. Excellent length.

Conclusion: Very good Meursault and should develop very well in bottle.

Rating: 17.5/20 [although another bottle warrants 18/20]

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet

Appearance: pleasant medium gold-green colour.

Nose: strong lemon fruit, hazelnut, minerality (stones). Very attractive integrated nose.

Palate: palate has good concentration and a bit more zip than the Meursault – Puligny’s trademark acidity and minerality coming through – although the fruit is bigger here than in Pulignys from other vintages (2005’s plushness to the fore). Good length and very good all around.

Conclusion: Lovely village Puligny. Will improve well in bottle.

Rating: 18/20

2005 Mischief & Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains

Appearance: attractive medium gold-green colour.

Nose: toasty oak first nose, also featuring lemon and hazlenuts (as on the village Puligny). Young, complex.

Palate: fruit has soft feel at first on palate, but then the acidity comes through so the mouth-feel is supple, simultaneously lean and rich. Very long.

Conclusion: This is possibly more complex than the village Puligny, but I love the blend of the latter. At this stage, I would rate both wines similarly in qualitative terms, but it will be really interesting to see how they develop. Very good.

Rating: 18/20 [could be 18.5/20 or higher]

Labels: Burgundy, Chablis, Chardonnay, Featured Tastings, France, Meursault, Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet, Two Hands Wines, white, Wine Spectator

2005 Beaujolais-Villages, Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy, France

Appearance: medium purple-red

Nose: strawberry and raspberry fruit, not too much carbonic maceration going on here so there is not that that bubble-gum, confected flavour. Bright fruit from the 2005 vintage.

Palate: a pleasant palate with low tannins, medium acidity and decent fruit. Quite good length.

Conclusion: representative and solid Beaujolais Villages in an excellent vintage. Not bad value for the Chinese market at 138RMB either from Torres China.

Rating: 16/20

2003 Trentham Estate Ruby Sparkling Shiraz, Murray Darling, New South Wales, Australia

Appearance: deepish purple.

Nose: lovely Shiraz fruit with blackberry, black cherry and even slight pepper (which doesn’t usually come from Aussie Shirazes).

Palate: lovely mousse, great fruit, even some tannin although it seems like every effort has been made to keep these low. Good length.

Conclusion: impressive sparkling Shiraz, a category we need to taste more of! Available from Gelipu for RMB 228.

Rating: 17.5/20

Labels: 2003, 2005, Australia, Beaujolais, Burgundy, Drouhin, France, Gamay, Gelipu, New South Wales, OCCB, red, Shiraz, sparkling, Torres China, Trentham Estate

2000 Riesling ‘Jubilee’, Hugel et Fils

Appearance: deepish golden green.

Nose: complex nose of honeyed green apple fruit with noticeable kerosene aroma (the chemical smell is fully integrated and purely a sign of age here).

Palate: has well-balanced high acidity and a wonderful complexity of honeyed apple fruit throughout with the lingering kerosene (wish I could find a better word for it, but this is an accurate epithet for aged Riesling). This is dry Riesling at its best.

Conclusion: superb Alsatian Riesling made from grapes harvested from the Grand Cru Schoenenbourg site. The 2000 vintage was strong and other bottles of this wine should last well for some time to come. 503RMB from Summergate.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 2000, Alsace, France, Grand Cru, Hugel, Jubilee, Riesling, Summergate, white

Château Loudenne Dinner at Le Bistrot Parisien, Beijing

ASC invited Florence Lafragette of Château Loudenne to present her wines accompanied by a decent menu from Beijing's Le Bistrot Parisien. We chatted with Ms Lafragette about Loudenne and our visit there in 2004 when taking part in the Vingt sur vin competition organized by Jean-Michel Cazes of Château Lynch-Bages. Like Cazes, she is a strong ambassador for the region.

It was a fun evening and the food was well-prepared and well-presented (it was certainly all a good deal at 200RMB per head as there was copious wine). The only thing that didn’t work was the first red with the bream (in fact, the Loudenne White would have been much better!). It's certainly worth experimenting with reds with various fish - particularly meatier types of fish - but red Bordeaux with a vanilla sauce (see below) is not to be recommended:

Tartare de Thon et de Concombre à la Crème Ciboulette

2003 Château Loudenne Blanc, Médoc

Appearance: pleasant gold yellow colour.

Nose: citrus fruit with marked oak and some waxy aromas. Complex.

Palate: strong fruit, good oak, some fresh acidity (the wine does not actually go through malolactic) and lovely length.

Conclusion: this is 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon and was really well put together despite the problems of the 2003 vintage. Impressive dry white Bordeaux and refreshing to find this kind of thing in the Medoc rather than just in Graves or Pessac-Leognan.

Rating: 18/20

Filet de Dorade Rose Rotie, Sauce Vanille, Julienne de Légumes Croquantes

2003 Pavillon de Loudenne (the 2nd wine)

Appearance: medium purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: we both picked up green tints and possibly unripe notes on more than one of the bottles which suggests that the grapes had to be picked with the highish sugar levels that the 2003 heat would have created but without their being physiologically/phenolically ripe (hence the unripe green nose).

Palate: more 'green' notes, but with some red and black fruits underneath. Tannins are not so unripe here, so maybe this wine has a better future than the nose suggests. Quite good length.

Conclusion: this wine is 76% Cabernet and 24% Merlot. You cannot, therefore, say the green notes are traceable to Cabernet Franc (which can show that green pepper nose). But they may not be unripe Cabernet Sauvignon either. Other bottles would have to be tried.

Rating: 17/20

Medaillon de Fillet de Boeuf, Sauce Porto, Pommes Forestieres

2002 Château Loudenne Rouge, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur

Appearance: purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: pleasant nose of blackcurrant fruit and French oak (although the fruit has the restraint of the 2002 vintage).

Palate: has refreshing medium acidity on the palate which makes it very drinkable at this stage, medium slightly chewy tannins (although not that pronounced) and agreeable fruit. Pretty balanced and with promising length.

Conclusion: 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec, this is a pleasant blend and was well assembled. We liked it, although the 2003 Château Loudenne Blanc carried the day.

Rating: 17.5/20

Labels: 2002, 2003, ASC, Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Featured Tastings, France, Jean-Michel Cazes, Loudenne, Malbec, Merlot, red, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Vingt sur vin, white

1995 Dom Perignon Champagne, Moet and Chandon

A gift from some very kind friends!

Appearance: medium green-gold.

Nose: Showing some development, Chardonnay-driven (seemingly) with some pleasant autolytic (i.e. toasty/yeasty) notes.

Palate: Complex on palate, with pleasant fruit, fine acidity and great length.

Conclusion: No doubt could be aged longer, but still very fun to drink right now. However, we're much more Pol Roger/Bollinger/Krug kind of people and prefer the 1995 and 1996 Pol Roger Cuvée Winston Churchill wines to this. But it’s obviously a lovely Champagne – and we can’t afford Krug anyway!

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 1995, Champagne, Dom Perignon, France, Moet and Chandon, sparkling

2001 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains, Louis Etienne et Fils

Appearance: medium green.

Nose: Classic developed Chablis on the nose with mellow green apple fruit, minerality and even slight nuttiness here from the relative age.

Palate: more mellow apple fruit although with slightly sour acidity. Okay length.

Conclusion: This bottle was possible slightly tired, but was pretty good though. Made in a traditional style.

Rating: 16.5/20

Labels: 2001, Burgundy, Chablis, Chardonnay, France, Louis Etienne, Montmains, white

1959 Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, A. Lahon

Appearance: deep orange-brown colour.

Nose: savoury, botrytis nose, some raisined fruit still there, quite honeyed, slightly oxidized.

Palate: very good palate with surprisingly supple acidity and good length. Still some raisined fruit there.

Conclusion: This wine has survived remarkably for its age and would go really well with cheese (rather than a dessert). There was just a whiff of oxidation reminiscent of Madeira. A. Lahon is probabaly a negociant as this does not appear to be a chateau or domaine bottling. It's probably made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc (as with Sauternes or Barsac), but it might be 100% Semillon (or could even include some Muscadelle). However, we cannot find any information on this wine for the moment. Fascinating.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 1959, Bordeaux, France, Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, sweet white

2002 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons (Vieilles Vignes), Dauvissat

Appearance: pale straw-green colour.

Nose: very young nose at present showing some citrus fruit and mineral notes, but perhaps a little closed right now.

Palate: more fruit on the palate than on the nose, good highish acidity, balanced alcohol, very good length.

Conclusion: This wine has a considerable way to go and there's some concentration there from the old vines that has yet to express itself fully. Drink from 2007-2012. Dauvissat is clearly a strong producer. Very good.

Rating: 18/20 [possibly higher with age]

Labels: 2002, Burgundy, Chablis, Chardonnay, Dauvissat, France, white

1996 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers, Dominique Laurent

Appearance: faded purple-red colour with orange rim.

Nose: very pleasant secondary nose (i.e. with mushroomy and other savoury characteristics), good oak, lingering Pinot fruit though as well.

Palate: savoury flavours and lingering red fruits, excellent acidity and superb structure (integrated mellowed silky tannins here). Great length.

Conclusion: A gorgeous wine. Some 1996 Red Burgundies are closed up at present, but this was showing very attractive development. Brilliant.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 1996, Burgundy, Dominique Laurent, France, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pinot Noir, red

2002 Pernand-Vergelesses (Blanc) 1er Cru Sous Frétille, Antonin Guyon

Appearance: medium gold.

Nose: immediate lemon fruits with classic buttery aromas from the malolactic fermentation and subtle French oak.

Palate: lovely fruit which is leaner than you'd typically get on Meursault, for example, helped by fine acidity and good length. Oak is non-intrusive.

Conclusion: Pernand-Vergelesses is something of an overlooked Burgundian village, no doubt because it is tucked around the corner of the famous hill of Corton and Corton-Charlemagne. Guyon is a reliable, experienced producer and this wine was drinking beautifully. Might benefit from modest ageing, however.

Rating: 17.5/20

Labels: 2002, Antonin Guyon, Burgundy, Chardonnay, France, Pernand Vergelesses, white

1990 Tokay Pinot Gris, Vendange Tardive, Hugel, Alsace

Appearance: deep green gold verging on amber.

Nose: honeyed, spicy nose, with lingering pear fruit and a gingerbread note.

Palate: rich, fat palate with decent residual sugar but also good acidity and balanced high alcohol. Honeyed fruits are long and the balance here is impressive.

Conclusion: a classic Pinot Gris in this style. Hugel rarely disappoints.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: 1990, Alsace, France, Hugel et Fils, Pinot Gris, Vendange Tardive, white

NV Pol Roger Champagne

Appearance: medium gold, delicate mousse.

Nose: this is an aged bottle and showed lovely developed Pinot fruits with some strong autolytic characters (yeasty and biscuity in aroma).

Palate: fine high acidity, lovely fruit with some savoury flavours, great mousse and really good length.

Conclusion: We've been hugely fortunate in tasting all of Pol Roger's wines for a number of years on the back of our involvement in the Pol Roger Oxford-Cambridge Varsity Tasting Match (see other posts for portfolio tastings). Always impressive and the ageing of this non-vintage releases all these toasty and biscuity aromas. Fantastic.

Rating: 18.5/20

Labels: Cambridge University Blind Wine Tasting Society, Champagne, Chardonnay, France, Oxford-Cambridge Tasting Match, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Pol Roger, sparkling

We were delighted to be able to visit Krug at their historic house in Reims, Champagne (this was before the hand-over to LVMH). Our thanks to Pascale Rousseau and also Laure Mérillon who was very informative, forthcoming and an excellent host.

The sheer number of wines and range of years that comprise the base wines for Krug’s Grand Cuvée is astonishing: often up to fifty or so wines, some as old as fourteen years blended from the Reserve stocks. Krug also keeps all its bottles for much longer before release than any other house (as well as, notably, doing the first fermentation in oak).

So by the time you drink the Grand Cuvée you are getting much more than even a sophisticated NV or some vintage wines can offer. The emphasis is all on blending and not especially on vintages. In fact, Krug only tends to make vintage wines in exceptional years. For example, the house decided not to make any vintage wines in 1992 and 1993; so there will be a lot of pressure on stocks of the 1990 (not that we can afford to buy any in any case!).

Krug Grand Cuvée

Appearance: gorgeous deep straw gold to brass colour.

Nose: very complex nose featuring apples, custard, crème anglaise, white currants, floral notes, marked Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier fruit, old oak, ‘a mixture of old and young characteristics’. Both rich (‘aged’) and very fresh.

Palate: intensely layered fruit and savoury aromas, fine high acidity and superbly delicate mousse. Very long, but a bit fierce at present.

Conclusion: amazing Champagne and one that would benefit from some further ageing in bottle, in fact.

Rating: 18.5/20

1990 Krug

Appearance: deep gold almost orange colour.

Nose: more developed nose than that on the Grand Cuvée, but you can tell a stylistic affinity between the two, even although they are very different wines in composition. Deep Pinot fruit, almost spicy, mature nose, oak, very layered.

Palate: intense and concentrated, but mellowing palate with strong Pinot-dominated fruit, great acidity, a lovely softened mousse and great length.

Conclusion: seems more ready to drink than the Grand Cuvée. Is this more approachable even than 1988 Krug? The 1988 is probably better, but both are amazing.

Rating: 19/20

Labels: 1990, Champagne, Chardonnay, France, Krug, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, sparkling