Part IIIc of our tasting notes to the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux grand tasting refers to the appellations of Pauillac, St. Estèphe, Haut-Médoc and Moulis-en-Médoc. We were not able to taste all the wines on show, but hope the below will prove useful for those interested in this underrated vintage.
2004 Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac
Appearance: deep purple colour.
Nose: very attractive black fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry, some black plum) matched by non-intrusive oak. Concentrated and fragrant.
Palate: strong on fruit, large chewy tannins, excellent acidity, good concentration and good length.
Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this wine spends 12 months in 60% new oak. It is robust and very well-made Pauillac. Should age very well.
Rating: 18.5/20
2004 Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac
Appearance: medium purple-red.
Nose: ‘sweet and savoury’ first nose showing lovely blackcurrant fruit with moderately toasty oak.
Palate: lovely concentration and ripe, chewy tannins. More attractive fruit and oak here with good length.
Conclusion: 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 15% merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, this wine spends some 15 months in barrel (not sure what percentage is new oak). Whatever the case, this is an attractive and well-made Pauillac.
Rating: 18.5/20
2004 Château Cos Labory, St. Estèphe
Appearance: dark purple.
Nose: very blackcurrant with strong intense fruit, non-intrusive oak and savoury notes.
Palate: concentrated, nice tannins, strong fruit and quite good length.
Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this has some of the intensity of St. Estèphe without being ‘rustic’. The wine is exposed to 45% new oak, although we’re not sure for how long. Good.
Rating: 17.5/20
2004 Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc
Appearance: medium purple-red.
Nose: attractive red and black fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry, red plum) with distinct spicy notes (from oak and Petit Verdot). Good oak.
Palate: well-balanced palate with good fruit, fine acidity, medium slightly chewy tannins and impressive length. Not intense, but delicate.
Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, this wine spends 18 months in oak (50% new) and is clearly of high quality. The percentage of Petit Verdot adds some complexity to the fine fruit. Should age very well.
Rating: 18.5/20
2004 Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc
Appearance: medium purple.
Nose: immediately appealing savoury, fruity and slightly ‘animal’ nose. Good oak.
Palate: nice concentration, ripe chunky tannins with good balance and good length.
Conclusion: 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, this is a reliable and well-made Haut-Médoc. Cantemerle is good value.
Rating: 17.5/20 [could be higher with time]
2004 Château Chasse-Spleen, Moulis-en-Médoc
Appearance: medium purple.
Nose: savoury and slight green first nose, but the fruit comes through as ripe and attractive. Nice oak.
Palate: good concentration – there’s certainly no hole in the middle here – with nice tannins, decent acidity and pleasant fruit. Good.
Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, this wine will have spent something like 14-18 months in barrel (40% new oak). Reliable and well-made.
Rating: 17.5/20
2004 Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac
Appearance: deep purple colour.
Nose: very attractive black fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry, some black plum) matched by non-intrusive oak. Concentrated and fragrant.
Palate: strong on fruit, large chewy tannins, excellent acidity, good concentration and good length.
Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this wine spends 12 months in 60% new oak. It is robust and very well-made Pauillac. Should age very well.
Rating: 18.5/20
2004 Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac
Appearance: medium purple-red.
Nose: ‘sweet and savoury’ first nose showing lovely blackcurrant fruit with moderately toasty oak.
Palate: lovely concentration and ripe, chewy tannins. More attractive fruit and oak here with good length.
Conclusion: 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 15% merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, this wine spends some 15 months in barrel (not sure what percentage is new oak). Whatever the case, this is an attractive and well-made Pauillac.
Rating: 18.5/20
2004 Château Cos Labory, St. Estèphe
Appearance: dark purple.
Nose: very blackcurrant with strong intense fruit, non-intrusive oak and savoury notes.
Palate: concentrated, nice tannins, strong fruit and quite good length.
Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this has some of the intensity of St. Estèphe without being ‘rustic’. The wine is exposed to 45% new oak, although we’re not sure for how long. Good.
Rating: 17.5/20
2004 Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc
Appearance: medium purple-red.
Nose: attractive red and black fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry, red plum) with distinct spicy notes (from oak and Petit Verdot). Good oak.
Palate: well-balanced palate with good fruit, fine acidity, medium slightly chewy tannins and impressive length. Not intense, but delicate.
Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, this wine spends 18 months in oak (50% new) and is clearly of high quality. The percentage of Petit Verdot adds some complexity to the fine fruit. Should age very well.
Rating: 18.5/20
2004 Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc
Appearance: medium purple.
Nose: immediately appealing savoury, fruity and slightly ‘animal’ nose. Good oak.
Palate: nice concentration, ripe chunky tannins with good balance and good length.
Conclusion: 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, this is a reliable and well-made Haut-Médoc. Cantemerle is good value.
Rating: 17.5/20 [could be higher with time]
2004 Château Chasse-Spleen, Moulis-en-Médoc
Appearance: medium purple.
Nose: savoury and slight green first nose, but the fruit comes through as ripe and attractive. Nice oak.
Palate: good concentration – there’s certainly no hole in the middle here – with nice tannins, decent acidity and pleasant fruit. Good.
Conclusion: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, this wine will have spent something like 14-18 months in barrel (40% new oak). Reliable and well-made.
Rating: 17.5/20
Labels: 2004, Cantemerle, Chasse-Spleen, Cos Labory, Featured Tastings, France, Haut-Medoc, La Lagune, Lynch-Bages, Moulis-en-Medoc, Pauillac, Pontet-Canet, red, St. Estephe, Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux
posted by Wine Dragon
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