Featured Tasting: Taste of the Nations Part I, Torres China Grand Tasting
Torres China threw a large tasting of their portfolio under the banner ‘Taste of the Nations’, a tasting of 150 wines organized by country. Fongyee, Ellen Xu and myself divided up those 150 wines and covered the majority.

The event itself was held at the Traders Hotel, Beijing, which did a good job and the Torres staff on hand were helpful and informative. There was a sizeable crowd, a decent mix of Chinese and ex-pat wine lovers and some good food to be had too. We were looking for wines that were decent expressions of their origins (and also useful for teaching purposes). Many of these examples would make reliable drinkers too.

Here were some of our favourites, including some for the cellar. Wines will be divided into two posts:

2000 Torres Nerola Syrah, Catalunya

Appearance: medium purple, slightly orange rim.

Nose: cool-climate Syrah nose with black fruits and black pepper, deft oak. Good.

Palate: pleasant medium chewy tannins, strong fruit, more black pepper. Good balance of fruit to oak. Acidity is maintained well too.

Conclusion: we don’t get to taste much Spanish Syrah, but more and more of them are appearing. This was well put together. Retail 192RMB.

Rating: 17/20

2002 Torres Mas La Plana Black Label

Appearance: dark purple to black, essentially clear rim.

Nose: very complex blend of black fruits, subtle oak and considerable spice and savouriness.

Palate: beautiful well-knit ripe medium-high tannins, great fruit, lovely acidity and very well balanced throughout.

Conclusion: obviously a top Cabernet Sauvignon, but very young at present. Needs time. Retail 489RMB.

Rating: 18.5/20

NV Graham’s Fine Ruby Port

Appearance: medium purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: concentrated red and black fruits, ‘Porty’ obviously but with light fruits, some slight spice.

Palate: medium-bodied, good acidity and well-balanced with regard to sugar and alcohol. Quite good length and only moderate in tannins (which are slightly chewy).

Conclusion: this is what entry-level Ruby Port should be: fruity, balanced, not too demanding. Retail 169RMB.

Rating: 17/20

NV Graham’s ‘Six Grapes’ Reserve Port

Appearance: darkish purple, clear rim.

Nose: crushed red and black fruits, powerful alcohol but this seems to be integrated.

Palate: sweet and also tart crushed red and black fruits, quite good balance of sugar to acidity with fairly good length. Tannins are gripping and ripe.

Conclusion: this is obviously a good Port – a Reserve Ruby – but there’s something unappealing about the tart fruit, even although there’s nothing wrong with quality here. Retail 278RMB.

Rating: 17/20

2000 Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage

Appearance: dark purple to black, clear rim.

Nose: very complex nose of concentrated black fruits, spicy oak and other savoury qualities.

Palate: lovely fruit, appealing structure with integrated chunky medium-high tannins, good acidity and a good balance of residual sugar to acid to alcohol. Good length.

Conclusion: a very stylish LBV from a strong vintage. We preferred this to the Six Grapes certainly. Retail 278RMB.

Rating: 18/20

NV Taittinger Brut Reserve Champagne

Appearance: medium gold, good mousse.

Nose: attractive yeasty nose with strong Pinot fruit (perfume, slight strawberry fruit even) but also some citrus from the Chardonnay here.

Palate: good fruit, lovely acidity and has promising length. Not very complex, but this may be a young bottle.

Conclusion: a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay blended from forty different vineyards, this is a reliable NV Champagne. It’s not exciting as the equivalent NVs from Pol Roger, Bollinger or Louis Roederer, but it’s still a good wine to go for and is one that should improve in bottle even after release. Retail 441RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2006 Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Riesling, South Australia

Appearance: green gold.

Nose: very attractive intense lime fruit with some floral notes too, slight kerosene.

Palate: lovely fruit, high refreshing acidity, more florality and a little kerosene. Good length.

Conclusion: a lovely example of Australian Riesling in this style. Well worth trying (and ageing). Retail 191RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2000 Peter Lehmann Mentor, South Australia

Appearance: dark purple to black, essentially clear rim.

Nose: warm nose laden with black fruits, but at the same time slightly tight (still a young wine on the nose). Good oak though.

Palate: complex fruit, gripping chewy tannins; fruit is a bit closed but the ripeness and concentration are definitely there. Promising length.

Conclusion: this wine needs time and is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec, 4% Merlot and spent 16 months in French oak hogsheads. I like the fact Malbec is part of the blend because this is hardly well-known as a grape in the Barossa, but is, of course, a traditional Bordeaux-blending grape. High quality and the 2002 (see below) is even better. Retail 531RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2002 Peter Lehmann Mentor, South Australia

Appearance: dark purple to black, clear rim.

Nose: much cooler fruit than the nose on the 2000 Mentor and with more savoury smells. Intense.

Palate: complex palate featuring a range of black fruits (blackcurrant, black cherry, blackberry, black plum etc.), chewy ripe but ‘cool’ tannins, lovely acidity and great length.

Conclusion: a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 10% Shiraz, 8% Malbec, this wine spent some 18 months in new French oak hogsheads. Retail: approx. 531RMB.

Rating: 18.5/20 [may get even better]

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1995 Dom Perignon Champagne
1995 Dom Perignon Champagne, Moet and Chandon

A gift from some very kind friends!

Appearance: medium green-gold.

Nose: Showing some development, Chardonnay-driven (seemingly) with some pleasant autolytic (i.e. toasty/yeasty) notes.

Palate: Complex on palate, with pleasant fruit, fine acidity and great length.

Conclusion: No doubt could be aged longer, but still very fun to drink right now. However, we're much more Pol Roger/Bollinger/Krug kind of people and prefer the 1995 and 1996 Pol Roger Cuvée Winston Churchill wines to this. But it’s obviously a lovely Champagne – and we can’t afford Krug anyway!

Rating: 18.5/20

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A Non-Vintage Champagne Worth Ageing: Pol Roger
NV Pol Roger Champagne

Appearance: medium gold, delicate mousse.

Nose: this is an aged bottle and showed lovely developed Pinot fruits with some strong autolytic characters (yeasty and biscuity in aroma).

Palate: fine high acidity, lovely fruit with some savoury flavours, great mousse and really good length.

Conclusion: We've been hugely fortunate in tasting all of Pol Roger's wines for a number of years on the back of our involvement in the Pol Roger Oxford-Cambridge Varsity Tasting Match (see other posts for portfolio tastings). Always impressive and the ageing of this non-vintage releases all these toasty and biscuity aromas. Fantastic.

Rating: 18.5/20

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Featured Tasting: Krug at Krug, Reims
We were delighted to be able to visit Krug at their historic house in Reims, Champagne (this was before the hand-over to LVMH). Our thanks to Pascale Rousseau and also Laure Mérillon who was very informative, forthcoming and an excellent host.

The sheer number of wines and range of years that comprise the base wines for Krug’s Grand Cuvée is astonishing: often up to fifty or so wines, some as old as fourteen years blended from the Reserve stocks. Krug also keeps all its bottles for much longer before release than any other house (as well as, notably, doing the first fermentation in oak).

So by the time you drink the Grand Cuvée you are getting much more than even a sophisticated NV or some vintage wines can offer. The emphasis is all on blending and not especially on vintages. In fact, Krug only tends to make vintage wines in exceptional years. For example, the house decided not to make any vintage wines in 1992 and 1993; so there will be a lot of pressure on stocks of the 1990 (not that we can afford to buy any in any case!).

Krug Grand Cuvée

Appearance: gorgeous deep straw gold to brass colour.

Nose: very complex nose featuring apples, custard, crème anglaise, white currants, floral notes, marked Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier fruit, old oak, ‘a mixture of old and young characteristics’. Both rich (‘aged’) and very fresh.

Palate: intensely layered fruit and savoury aromas, fine high acidity and superbly delicate mousse. Very long, but a bit fierce at present.

Conclusion: amazing Champagne and one that would benefit from some further ageing in bottle, in fact.

Rating: 18.5/20

1990 Krug

Appearance: deep gold almost orange colour.

Nose: more developed nose than that on the Grand Cuvée, but you can tell a stylistic affinity between the two, even although they are very different wines in composition. Deep Pinot fruit, almost spicy, mature nose, oak, very layered.

Palate: intense and concentrated, but mellowing palate with strong Pinot-dominated fruit, great acidity, a lovely softened mousse and great length.

Conclusion: seems more ready to drink than the Grand Cuvée. Is this more approachable even than 1988 Krug? The 1988 is probably better, but both are amazing.

Rating: 19/20

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NV Pol Roger Champagne Brut
NV Pol Roger Champagne Brut

Appearance: brilliant medium gold, delicate mousse.

Nose: some citrus, but marked with biscuity, yeasty aromas, including almonds, custard. Complex.

Palate: balanced acidity, very slight sweetness of taste (from dosage), but still dry. Lovely Pinot fruit coming through. Medium alcohol. Very well-blanced. Delicate mousse.

Conclusion: excellent balance and depth of flavour here. The assemblage is a third of each of the classic grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. This is one our favourite Grand Marques and the NV Brut, also known as 'White Foil', is capable of further bottle age. Very, very good.

Rating: 18.5/20

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