Featured Tasting: Wines of Ridge (2004 Lytton Springs, Geyersville and Monte Bello)
The following were tasted at Berry Bros. & Rudd's Hong Kong shop. Our thanks to Nicholas Pegna and his conscientious and informed staff:

2004 Ridge Lytton Springs, Sonoma County

Appearance: medium red-purple, clear rim.

Nose: restrained concentrated red and black fruits. Not obviously Zinfandel dominated (the problem is we’ve usually tasted much more sweet-smelling examples). Delicate and very balanced between oak and fruit.

Palate: medium not full-bodied, delicate medium chewy and slightly grainy tannins, lovely acidity and good length. Similar fruit character throughout. The high alcohol here is barely noticeable because of very good integration.

Conclusion: 79% Zinfandel, 18% Petit Syrah and 3% Carignan, this wine is aged for 13 months in American oak (20% of which is new). It’s certainly a restrained style of Zinfandel-based wine and it would be interesting to know more about what the Petit Syrah and Carignan contribute from these particular vineyards. Very good.

Rating: 18/20

2004 Ridge Geyersville, Sonoma County

Appearance: medium purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: very aromatic and spicy nose – reminiscent of Primitivo at first – with a mixture of red and black fruits. Complex with integrated oak and considerable fragrance (perfumed, spicy, ‘sweet and sour’ notes).

Palate: medium-bodied, concentrated red and black fruits, but the wine has restraint within that concentration (i.e. it’s not a ‘fruit bomb’ by any means). Medium angular and slightly grainy tannins and considerable complexity throughout. Refreshing acidity and balanced high alcohol.

Conclusion: 75% Zinfandel, 18% Carignan, 7% Petit Syrah, this wine spends some 18 months in American oak. But it’s a testament to the quality of the fruit that the wine is not unduly influenced by oak. Very good.

Rating: 18.5/20

2004 Ridge Monte Bello, Sonoma County

Appearance: medium to dark purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: immensely attractive and refined nose with very complex mix of red and black fruits with a savoury and also sweet-smelling nose – these are elements of the fruit knitting with the oak here. Defies description.

Palate: very balanced beautiful mix of ‘warm and cool’ red and black fruits, deft oak, and very fine tannins (‘fine’ both in quality and texture). Superbly balanced. Superb length. Alcohol is slightly lower, but who cares? The balance is brilliant regardless.

Conclusion: Ridge’s Monte Bello has famously been top of the tops in the world’s Cabernet blends in both the 1976 Paris tasting and its re-match in 2006 (where the 1971 won in both challenges). This is the first time I’ve tried any vintage of the Monte Bello and it was stupendously good. A blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, the wine spends 18 months in oak in a mixture of 92% new American oak and 8% in new French. Incredibly good.

Rating: 19.5/20

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1985 Saintsbury Carneros Pinot Noir
1985 Saintsbury Carneros Pinot Noir

Appearance: medium red with marked orange rim.

Nose: a mixture of mellowed red fruits (strawberry, red cherry) and also some ‘Piemonte’ style notes of violets, almond and even slight tar. Not indicative of aged Burgundian Pinot Noir, but then this is obviously not Burgundian. Attractively complex nose with leathery oak aromas.

Palate: typical high acidity of the grape, but the fruit is still there. Good length and not knackered by any means, i.e. still alive.

Conclusion: I have not had the opportunity to taste much aged Californian Pinot, but this seemed to stand up very well. Saintsbury is a producer I remember from way back at a tasting at Oxford (George Saintsbury was an Oxford don and kept a wine journal that went through a few published volumes). High quality.

Rating: 18.5/20

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Featured Tasting: Taste of the Nations Part II, Torres China Grand Tasting
Here are a selection of some of the other wines we particularly enjoyed at the Torres China 'Taste of the Nations' event (see Taste of the Nations Part I: Torres China Grand Tasting)

2004 Amherst ‘Dunn’s Paddock’ Shiraz, Pyrenees, Victoria

Appearance: dark purple-black, clear rim.

Nose: concentrated dark fruits with a very ‘Christmas cake’ nose (i.e. candied fruits, spices like cinnamon and clove). Strong oak here which balances with the robust fruit well (probably American oak by the smell of things).

Palate: intense fruit, more ‘Christmas cake’ aromas, ripe chewy and big tannins but with enough acidity here to lift the wine. Decent length.

Conclusion: interesting to try some Shiraz from Victoria. Well-made and very enjoyable. Retail 224RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2003 Amherst ‘Chinese Gardens’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Pyrenees, Victoria

Appearance: dark purple to black, clear rim.

Nose: immensely fruity blackcurrant nose with similar ‘Christmas cake’ aromas to those on the above Dunn’s Paddock Shiraz. Strong oak, but this seems to match well with the concentrated fruit here.

Palate: big fruit, very large chewy tannins and pretty good length. Acidity is there.

Conclusion: This didn’t seem as balanced as the Dunn’s Paddock Shiraz, but is still clearly a good wine. Retail 224RMB.

Rating: 17.5/20

1998 Marimar Torres Chardonnay, California

Appearance: medium gold.

Nose: developed, aged Chardonnay with lingering citrus, nutty aromas and some other oxidized smells (from the mellowing oak).

Palate: concentrated palate with more nutty citrus fruits (fruits that were quite ‘warm’ originally). Decent acidity lifts this, though. Good length.

Conclusion: impressive aged Californian Chardonnay. Retail 385RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2000 Marimar Torres Pinot Noir, California

Appearance: medium red-purple, orange rim.

Nose: sweet Pinot fruit (red cherry, strawberry), perfumed but with some development (slight barnyard aromas).

Palate: typical high acidity but this has mellowed and integrated with the rich Pinot fruit. Light on tannins, but they are there and slightly chewy. Good length.

Conclusion: obviously decent quality Californian Pinot Noir. Ready to drink. Retail 441RMB.

Rating: 18.5/20

2006 Hess Collection Chardonnay, California

Appearance: medium green-gold.

Nose: attractive mixture of citrus and melon fruit (‘warm’ and ‘cool’ in expression), light on oak.

Palate: generous fruit, but this is restrained and there’s acidity there.

Conclusion: good quality Monterey Chardonnay. A good deal at 170RMB.

Rating: 17/20

The other Hess wines on show (the Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon) are also worth trying.

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1992 Opus One, Napa Valley, California
1992 Opus One, Napa Valley, California

Appearance: deep purple-red colour with only slight signs of age on the rim.

Nose: very complex nose of French oak with cassis and blackberry fruit and aromas of leather and cedar.

Palate: superbly balanced in terms of acidity, tannin and alcohol, all of which are very well integrated. Great fruit concentration (the fruit is only partially mellowed in this bottle). Amazing length.

Conclusion: 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 3 % Merlot, this wine was kept for 17 months in new French oak. 1992 is meant to be a patircularly strong vintage for Opus One and this wine, it has to be said, was stunning. Usually, when Fongyee and I are faced with wines of this prestige we tend to wait to be convinced rather than have unduly high expectations that may be disappointed; but this is one of the best Bordeaux-blend wines we have ever had (Ridge's Monte Bello is definitely up there along with Grosset's Gaia too). A stupendous wine that still has quite a life ahead!

Rating: 19.5/20

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1999 Rodney Strong Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, California
1999 Rodney Strong Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley

Appearance: medium to deep purple, slight brickiness.

Nose: good Pinot nose with marked red cherry fruit; quite alcoholic but still pleasant, some clove and cinnamon from the oak.

Palate: good acidity, nice length, high alcohol but balanced with good oak and supple lowish tannins.

Conclusion: far better than expected, but only because we've had some pretty dreadful – and dreadfully overpriced – Californian Pinot Noir (the best wines probably don't leave the state). Russian River Valley is supposed to be a decent region for Pinot. Ideally, this should be enjoyed now, but might benefit from some further short-term ageing.

Rating: 17.5/20

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