Featured Tasting: Taste of the Nations Part I, Torres China Grand Tasting
Torres China threw a large tasting of their portfolio under the banner ‘Taste of the Nations’, a tasting of 150 wines organized by country. Fongyee, Ellen Xu and myself divided up those 150 wines and covered the majority.

The event itself was held at the Traders Hotel, Beijing, which did a good job and the Torres staff on hand were helpful and informative. There was a sizeable crowd, a decent mix of Chinese and ex-pat wine lovers and some good food to be had too. We were looking for wines that were decent expressions of their origins (and also useful for teaching purposes). Many of these examples would make reliable drinkers too.

Here were some of our favourites, including some for the cellar. Wines will be divided into two posts:

2000 Torres Nerola Syrah, Catalunya

Appearance: medium purple, slightly orange rim.

Nose: cool-climate Syrah nose with black fruits and black pepper, deft oak. Good.

Palate: pleasant medium chewy tannins, strong fruit, more black pepper. Good balance of fruit to oak. Acidity is maintained well too.

Conclusion: we don’t get to taste much Spanish Syrah, but more and more of them are appearing. This was well put together. Retail 192RMB.

Rating: 17/20

2002 Torres Mas La Plana Black Label

Appearance: dark purple to black, essentially clear rim.

Nose: very complex blend of black fruits, subtle oak and considerable spice and savouriness.

Palate: beautiful well-knit ripe medium-high tannins, great fruit, lovely acidity and very well balanced throughout.

Conclusion: obviously a top Cabernet Sauvignon, but very young at present. Needs time. Retail 489RMB.

Rating: 18.5/20

NV Graham’s Fine Ruby Port

Appearance: medium purple-red, clear rim.

Nose: concentrated red and black fruits, ‘Porty’ obviously but with light fruits, some slight spice.

Palate: medium-bodied, good acidity and well-balanced with regard to sugar and alcohol. Quite good length and only moderate in tannins (which are slightly chewy).

Conclusion: this is what entry-level Ruby Port should be: fruity, balanced, not too demanding. Retail 169RMB.

Rating: 17/20

NV Graham’s ‘Six Grapes’ Reserve Port

Appearance: darkish purple, clear rim.

Nose: crushed red and black fruits, powerful alcohol but this seems to be integrated.

Palate: sweet and also tart crushed red and black fruits, quite good balance of sugar to acidity with fairly good length. Tannins are gripping and ripe.

Conclusion: this is obviously a good Port – a Reserve Ruby – but there’s something unappealing about the tart fruit, even although there’s nothing wrong with quality here. Retail 278RMB.

Rating: 17/20

2000 Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage

Appearance: dark purple to black, clear rim.

Nose: very complex nose of concentrated black fruits, spicy oak and other savoury qualities.

Palate: lovely fruit, appealing structure with integrated chunky medium-high tannins, good acidity and a good balance of residual sugar to acid to alcohol. Good length.

Conclusion: a very stylish LBV from a strong vintage. We preferred this to the Six Grapes certainly. Retail 278RMB.

Rating: 18/20

NV Taittinger Brut Reserve Champagne

Appearance: medium gold, good mousse.

Nose: attractive yeasty nose with strong Pinot fruit (perfume, slight strawberry fruit even) but also some citrus from the Chardonnay here.

Palate: good fruit, lovely acidity and has promising length. Not very complex, but this may be a young bottle.

Conclusion: a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay blended from forty different vineyards, this is a reliable NV Champagne. It’s not exciting as the equivalent NVs from Pol Roger, Bollinger or Louis Roederer, but it’s still a good wine to go for and is one that should improve in bottle even after release. Retail 441RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2006 Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Riesling, South Australia

Appearance: green gold.

Nose: very attractive intense lime fruit with some floral notes too, slight kerosene.

Palate: lovely fruit, high refreshing acidity, more florality and a little kerosene. Good length.

Conclusion: a lovely example of Australian Riesling in this style. Well worth trying (and ageing). Retail 191RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2000 Peter Lehmann Mentor, South Australia

Appearance: dark purple to black, essentially clear rim.

Nose: warm nose laden with black fruits, but at the same time slightly tight (still a young wine on the nose). Good oak though.

Palate: complex fruit, gripping chewy tannins; fruit is a bit closed but the ripeness and concentration are definitely there. Promising length.

Conclusion: this wine needs time and is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec, 4% Merlot and spent 16 months in French oak hogsheads. I like the fact Malbec is part of the blend because this is hardly well-known as a grape in the Barossa, but is, of course, a traditional Bordeaux-blending grape. High quality and the 2002 (see below) is even better. Retail 531RMB.

Rating: 18/20

2002 Peter Lehmann Mentor, South Australia

Appearance: dark purple to black, clear rim.

Nose: much cooler fruit than the nose on the 2000 Mentor and with more savoury smells. Intense.

Palate: complex palate featuring a range of black fruits (blackcurrant, black cherry, blackberry, black plum etc.), chewy ripe but ‘cool’ tannins, lovely acidity and great length.

Conclusion: a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 10% Shiraz, 8% Malbec, this wine spent some 18 months in new French oak hogsheads. Retail: approx. 531RMB.

Rating: 18.5/20 [may get even better]

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1994 Grosset ‘Gaia’, Clare Valley, South Australia
1994 Grosset ‘Gaia’, Clare Valley, South Australia

Appearance: dark purple to black, slight orange rim.

Nose: slight eucalyptus and minty nose, strong blackcurrant fruit which is ripe and ‘sweet’ on the nose, considerable oak.

Palate: brilliant balance of fruit, acidity, alcohol, oak with still chewy tannins. Superb length.

Conclusion: Gaia is the name of a vineyard in the Clare Valley which is actually one of the highest (planted at something like 570m above sea-level according to Antony Rose). I couldn't get information on this particular vintage and the exact blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc here. But this is clearly one of the best Australian Bordeaux-blends we’ve had. For sheer quality, it reminded us of the 1991 Lake’s Folly Cabernet Sauvignon, Hunter Valley enjoyed on 31st July 2007. Only at the beginning of its drinking phase really.

Rating: 19/20

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1992 Opus One, Napa Valley, California
1992 Opus One, Napa Valley, California

Appearance: deep purple-red colour with only slight signs of age on the rim.

Nose: very complex nose of French oak with cassis and blackberry fruit and aromas of leather and cedar.

Palate: superbly balanced in terms of acidity, tannin and alcohol, all of which are very well integrated. Great fruit concentration (the fruit is only partially mellowed in this bottle). Amazing length.

Conclusion: 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 3 % Merlot, this wine was kept for 17 months in new French oak. 1992 is meant to be a patircularly strong vintage for Opus One and this wine, it has to be said, was stunning. Usually, when Fongyee and I are faced with wines of this prestige we tend to wait to be convinced rather than have unduly high expectations that may be disappointed; but this is one of the best Bordeaux-blend wines we have ever had (Ridge's Monte Bello is definitely up there along with Grosset's Gaia too). A stupendous wine that still has quite a life ahead!

Rating: 19.5/20

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Canada's Okanagan: A Rising Star?
2001 Oculus, Mission Hill

Appearance: deep purple to black, clear rim.

Nose: initial green aromas, probably from the Cabernet Franc here rather than from unripeness. Later complex black fruits and high-quality, integrated oak. Savoury.

Palate: beautiful fruit, good, firm but not astringent medium tannins, excellent acidity, good length and approachable now, although will benefit from further ageing.

Conclusion: This wine is 45% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot and is Mission Hill’s top red. The green notes from the Cabernet Franc settled down after opening and this revealed itself as a sophisticated beast. Each grape variety sings through here (although the 5% Petit Verdot is not really something one could detect without considerable experience of that grape, if then). We'll be blogging on a whole range of Okanagan producers on this site. Mission Hill is the largest producer, but some of the best wines come from Burrowing Owl and Cedar Creek, among others. The Oculus is a fine thing, however. Buy whilst it's still affordable!

Rating: 18.5/20

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