2000 Riesling ‘Jubilee’, Hugel et Fils
2000 Riesling ‘Jubilee’, Hugel et Fils

Appearance: deepish golden green.

Nose: complex nose of honeyed green apple fruit with noticeable kerosene aroma (the chemical smell is fully integrated and purely a sign of age here).

Palate: has well-balanced high acidity and a wonderful complexity of honeyed apple fruit throughout with the lingering kerosene (wish I could find a better word for it, but this is an accurate epithet for aged Riesling). This is dry Riesling at its best.

Conclusion: superb Alsatian Riesling made from grapes harvested from the Grand Cru Schoenenbourg site. The 2000 vintage was strong and other bottles of this wine should last well for some time to come. 503RMB from Summergate.

Rating: 18.5/20

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Great Alsace: 1990 Tokay Pinot Gris, Vendange Tardive, Hugel
1990 Tokay Pinot Gris, Vendange Tardive, Hugel, Alsace

Appearance: deep green gold verging on amber.

Nose: honeyed, spicy nose, with lingering pear fruit and a gingerbread note.

Palate: rich, fat palate with decent residual sugar but also good acidity and balanced high alcohol. Honeyed fruits are long and the balance here is impressive.

Conclusion: a classic Pinot Gris in this style. Hugel rarely disappoints.

Rating: 18.5/20

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1998 Riesling Jubilee, Hugel, Alsace
1998 Riesling Jubilee, Hugel, Alsace, France

Appearance: deepish yellow green gold.

Nose: some kerosene, plus slightly aged qualities: honey and cheese. Beautiful Alsatian nose with decaying spiced apple notes.

Palate: excellent acidity, basically bone dry, powerful but not huge alcohol, some good honeyed fruit, very sophisticated.

Conclusion: a brilliant wine. We love the Hugel Jubilee range which is still good value for money and very age-worthy, usually.

Rating: 18.5/20

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